VinoDuo.com: A Couple of Wine Lovers

UnCommon Wining & Dining

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Sat, 12 May 2012 16:51:54 GMT

Kitchen on Common in Belmont, MA is one of our favorite restaurants. It’s tiny, quirky (closes at 8:30pm Saturday night), chef-owned, and—praise the Gods—BYO. The Spirited Gourmet, right next door, is one of our go-to wine shops. It didn’t take a genius to pair these two neighbors for a wine dinner but, amazingly, that pairing had never happened until one Monday night in April.

A few weeks back, Kitchen On Common’s Joh Kokubo and the Spirited Gourmet’s Wine Director Nick Martinelle held their “First Ever Kitchen on Common and Spirited Gourmet Wine Dinner.” The five-course menu paired Joh’s inspired cuisine with a wine the hosts jointly selected.

PAIRING NOTES

Course 1
Food: Pan Seared Soft Shell Crab with Asparagus, Caviar Hollandaise, and Upland Cress
Wine: 2010 Domaine de la Bergerie Anjou Blanc, “Sous la Tonelle,” Loire Valley, France

Commentary
Nick’s write-up of the Anjou Blanc (80% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay) described “crispness” and “lively fruit.” Neither Gary nor Lisa found it lively; in fact it was a bit heavy, with mineral notes and, to Lisa, a sour taste. It just didn’t seem to work with the subtle flavors of the soft shell crab (yes, even with Hollandaise Kokubo’s touch was delicate.) Perhaps an un-oaked Chardonnay or extra-dry Riesling would have been a better match for this delicious dish.

Course 2
Food: Grilled Vermont Quail Escabeche with Spinach Salad & Romesco Sauce
Wine: 2011 Ostatu Rosado, Rioja Alavesa, Spain (VinoDuo purchased)

Commentary
This pairing was a big hit. The delicious, food-friendly Rioja Rosé (50% Tempranillo; 40% Garnacha; 10% Viura) was a perfect companion to the quail. Pale pink and somewhat flinty (clay/rocky soil) the wine matched the Romesco flavor for flavor. VinoDuo purchased several bottles; alas, no quail in the freezer…maybe game hen will do.

Course 3
Food: Misty Knoll Chicken with Parsnip Puree, Morel Cream, Crispy Chicken Skin
Wine: 2010 Domaine de Colette Beaujolais Villages Burgundy, France

Commentary
Well, the chicken was out of this world… the wine…not so much. Lisa noted that this 100% Gamay tasted like grape skins, not the fruit; “no subtlety, unpleasant” read her tasting notes. As Gary said, We’re just not big fans of Gamay. Only problem with the chicken: the Vermont farm’s name sounds more like a pole dancer than a free range chicken.

Course 4
Food: Ricotta Cavatelli, Braised Rabbit, Favas, Charred Ramps
Wine: 2009 Casa Wine: Pietrantonj, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy (VinoDuo purchased)

Commentary
Once again, a terrific pairing between this balanced fruity, earthy red and this flavorful, gamey dish. We think of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as the default carry-in wine for our neighborhood red sauce Italian BYO, but this pairing gave us new perspective on what else may work with this versatile wine. We purchased a few bottles to conduct our future gastronomic experiments.

Course 5
Food: Lemon Buttermilk Panna Cotta Candied Lemon Zest, Red Wine-Rhubarb Compote
Wine: NV Chateau Montauriol Flambant Bulles Rouge Fronton, France (VinoDuo purchased)

Commentary
What a way to end an evening! The dessert was amazing!!! Tart, yet sweet with just the right balance of lemon; we wish we could have this every night. The sparkling wine selection (85% Negrette; 15% Syrah) was the best pairing of the evening; it fit the panna cotta like hand-in-glove. VinoDuo stocked up on the Chateau Montauriol Flambant Bulles and can’t wait for those hazy days of summer so we can swig this “fun, flirty, and fizzy” wine, as Lisa described it.

We’re thrilled that Kitchen On Common and Spirited Gourmet have finally consummated their long-time friendship and look forward to the 2nd Ever Wine Dinner.

Masterpiece Theatre Meets La Dolce Vita at WGBH Wine Event

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 00:31:14 GMT

The impressive new studios of WGBH were the ideal backdrop for a mid-winter sampling of Italian wine and local cheeses. The stunning conference room was packed; no servants from Downton Abbey, no Muppets from Sesame Street but plenty of freeloading wine writers and trade reps were on hand to sample wines from four regions of Italy.

Our tasting tour guide was wine columnist Michael Apstein, who led the group through an uneven selection of three white wines and six reds from Apulia (southeastern Italy), Marche (Central, on the Adriatic), Tuscany (you know where that is), and Lombardy (North, on the Swiss border.)

VinoDuo’s knowledge of Italian wines is also uneven: we go deep in a few areas (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Chianti, Brunello), wide in others, like Prosecco. And then there’s a big blank. So we were excited to sample wines made from varietals we had never heard of (Pecorino, Marzemino) let alone tasted.

Cut to the Chase – What to Buy

Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte DOC Reserva 2008, Torrevento $25
Chianti Classico DOCG 2009, Poggio Bonelli, $20
Le Sincette Garda Classico Rosso DOC 2007 $38

White Wines Tasted

Pecorino Offida DOC 2010 (100% Pecorino grapes)
Cantina Offida, Marche

A split decision from VinoDuo. Gary thought it had a pleasant floral character on the nose with hints of nectarine and fresh melon. He found the taste “Surprisingly lively with a good balance of melon fruits, acidity and minerality.” Lisa detected pineapple and coconut on the nose; would a Pina Colada be in the offering? Alas, no. “Highly acidic; undrinkable,” read her tasting notes. Gary immediately thought of the Pecorino being served ice cold with cocktail shrimp, Alaskan crab legs or even a cold lobster salad. Lisa thought of pouring it in the spit jar and moving on. $8-$10 retail but no US distribution yet.

Vermentino Toscana IGT 2010 (100% Vermentino)
Sada, Tuscany

The Duo was Uno on the Vermentino: nope. This was more like what Gary remembered about Italian white wines that he had tasted in the past. Beautiful on the nose…Lisa picked up lychee and apricot, with a very clean scent. Then, bam! Gary said the overpowering mineral taste made it “more like an astringent than a consumable beverage.”

Il Selva Bianco Locorotondo DOC 2010 (60% Verdeca, 35% Bianco d'Alessano, 5% Fiano)
Albea, Apulia

Another split decision. This very pale, almost clear wine had a honeysuckle nose and, to Lisa, an acceptable acidity that made it the ideal deck wine. Gary said the nose reminded him of Welch’s White Grape juice and the palate delivered the polar opposite—full of sour minerality.

So, on to the reds.

Red Wines Tasted

Primitivo Puglia IGP 2010
Amastuola, Apulia

Our first red was a Primitivo (the clone/kin of American Zinfandel) from Apulia. We’ve enjoyed many lovely Primitivos and were charmed by this wine’s nose of dark caramelized plums, blackberry, and vanilla. But the spicy black fruit flavors and a nice acidity/tannin balance were overpowered by an abrupt mineral finish. At $15, this is a good buy but we still prefer Pichierri Tradizione Del Nonno Primitivo Di Manduria 2007 ($24), Castello Monaci ($14), Flaio Primitivo Salento 2006 ($8), and Castello Monaci Piluna 2006 ($14)

Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte DOC Reserva 2008
Torrevento, Apulia

An unusual wine (to VinoDuo) made from 100% Nero di Troia grapes. A terrific nose with dark fruits and some licorice notes. Superior balance of fruit, tannin and alcohol. The fruit is tightly wound (concentrated) releasing slowly over the long, silky finish. Gary thought that his eggplant lasagna or eggplant Parmesan dishes would be perfect for this gem. Tastes like a $40 bottle yet its pre-release (will be imported this year into the US) pricing is around $25. Once this is on the shelves in the US, it will definitely be a "Must Buy.”

Chianti Classico DOCG 2009 (90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot)
Poggio Bonelli, Tuscany

With its outstanding cherry-vanilla nose and food-friendly palate, this classic Chianti is a must-have-on-the-shelf buy at $17 - $20.

Vigneto della Rana Chianti DOCG 2009 (90% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo)
Castella di San Sano, Tuscany

A "hot" nose with hints of blackberries, currants, and prunes. Presented well at first taste but the flavor did not hold up to the alcohol or the ever-present minerality. Gary called it “overbearing.” Not one of VinoDuo's favorites.

Le Sincette Garda Classico Rosso DOC 2007
Le Sincette, Lombardy

This wine was the hit of the tasting! A smooth blend of Gropello Gentile, Marzemino, Barbera, and Sangiovese grapes. Velvety tannins coupled with notes of caramel, dried bing cherries, and butterscotch. The long finish goes on and on! At $35-$40, it's outside of our usual "Must-Buy" limit, but we'll make an exception here.

Sapaio Bolgheru Superiore DOC 2008
Podere Sapaio, Tuscany

The final wine in the tasting is a classic blend associated more with Bordeaux than Tuscany: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 15% Petit Verdot. So we asked the wine-maker what was up with this. His answer? "We're Trying to compete with Bordeaux and California."

This is a big wine that needs a steak, venison or other hearty foods. We thought that the taste/tannins presented like a big California Cab blend. But this $55 wine is still quite young and needs time to resolve in the bottle. It will be a terrific wine within 18 months and should have good cellaring capability.

Crush! Punch! Press! Violence in Winemaking

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 01:20:21 GMT

Southern New England is blessed with many fine winemakers, scratching out an existence in these cold climes, often--but not always--with grapes imported from warmer regions. Since VinoDuo always champions local winemakers, we were game to check out the goods from Zoll Cellars, in that charming Massachusetts village of...Shrewsbury. Yes, Boston readers, Shrewsbury as in Spags, the gone but not forgotten discount mecca. Shrewsbury, as in Route 9 retail heaven; gateway to Worcester. That's where Frank Zoll set up his small winery, and where VinoDuo spent a gorgeous Saturday in October helping with the winemaking process of grapes from California, New York, and southeastern Mass.

We won the opportunity to get hands-on with the crush at the Newport Wine & Food Festival's silent auction; paying, in fact, to get deliciously dirty, hands and clothing stained purple with Alicante and Cabernet Franc grapes. We loved every minute of it of it.

About Zoll Cellars
Frank Zoll is a relative newbie to winemaking. He started his career as a pastry chef, eventually landing a sweet spot at the Ritz in Boston and the Marriott Marquis in New York. In 2001 he was bitten by the wine bug and started making wine in his parents' kitchen. Ten years and a lot of trial and error later, he's quit his day job and devoted himself full-time to Zoll Cellars. While he hopes to use his own Traminette vines, planted on his Shrewsbury homestead, that vineyard has a ways to go. Right now, the vines are more for show than crush.

The Crush
We paid to engage in repetitive manual labor, and by God we did. First up, dump 1200 pounds of Alicante grapes from Lodi into the crusher. Grown largely as a blending grape these days, Alicante is itself a hybrid of Grenache and Petit Bouschet. Fortunately, Frank Zoll had plenty of farm hands on board--friends from Long Island--to help VinoDuo with the crush. After an hour or so, all of the plump, perky Alicante grapes lay smashed at the bottom of the crusher, stems cruelly ripped from their bodies, awaiting fermentation.

The Punch Down
The Alicante dispatched with, we turned our grubby little purple fingers to the already-crushed 1500 pounds of Cab Franc from Jamesport Vineyards on Long Island. The grapeskin "cap" of the Cab Franc was bobbing happily in a huge red vat, going through fermentation. The grapes needed to be "punched down" three times a day for 10-12 days. Insert your Lucy and Ethel joke here about stomping the grapes...that's the old-fashioned way to punch down.

The Press
Last chore on the winemaking to-do list was putting an already-fermented 50-50 blend of Merlot and Zinfandel through the press. Pressing is the act of applying pressure to grapes (skins, seeds, and whatever) to separate juice or wine. Based on the photos you might think the press was manly-man work only. No way. Lisa did her share of heavy-duty pressing, but no photos of that miracle act exist.

Finally, the tasting
After a day of hard labor, the reward...tasting Frank Zoll's current vintages, paired with Frank's own luscious pastries. First up, Northern Whites. Then Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, each barrel aged for 6 months in American or Hungarian oak. Finally, Local Blend dessert wine. All of Zoll Cellar's wines retail for $14.99.

Northern Whites
A 100% Massachusetts white wine blend of Traminette and Vidal Blanc, hand harvested from Westport and Dartmouth Vineyards. We loved the floral nose, accompanied by honey and apricot aromas. Pleasant flavors with a sharp, mineral finish.

Pinot Noir
90% Pinot, 10% Cab Franc grapes, all from Westport Rivers Vineyard in southeastern Mass. Not our favorite; we noted its thin mouth-feel with abundant minerality.

Cabernet Franc -- Bought 1 bottle
A winner! Our favorite was a 100% Cab Franc (grapes sourced from Jamesport Vineyard in NY). Peppery nose, well structured with deep fruit flavors. We're laying it down for 6 months or so and look forward to a delicious unveiling.

Local Blend Dessert Wine
An ambitious blend of Long Island Merlot (aged 4 years in French Oak), Nantucket Brandy from Triple Eight Distillery, and grape concentrate. Good for folks with a sweet tooth, especially when served with Chef Frank's spectacular Chocolate Mousse Torte made with Ghiradelli chocolate.

We left Zoll Vineyards happy, filthy, and well-fed. Thanks to Frank Zoll for his hospitality and for not making us come back for more crushing, punching, and pressing. Way too much work for this couple of wine lovers.

New England Fall Brings Cool Wines

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Sat, 22 Oct 2011 13:22:10 GMT

When fall comes to New England, thoughts turn to apples, pumpkins, dead leaves, cold rain...oh wait, let's stay on fruits and vegetables...pears, and squash. Our thoughts turn, of course, to grapes, and the burgeoning Massachusetts' wine region.

Cape Crush Co-Op
As members of the Cape Crush Co-op, we'll be heading to Cape Cod in a few weeks, 30 freshly cleaned/sanitized empty bottles in tow, to claim our 2010 stash of Frank Puzio's marvelous Cab/Merlot/Malbec blend. No, Frank doesn't grow these grapes on the Cape's sandy soil; he trucks them in from California's best wine regions. The alchemy is handled in the winery built into the Puzios' gorgeous Yarmouthport home.

Don't bother looking for VinoDuo in that crush photo, right. Last year, we conveniently arrived on the Cape after all the hard work had been done, but just in time for the post-crush wine and goodies. If you want to enjoy Cape Cod Co-op wine, you've gotta pay your dues...Dr. Frank's (he's a noted Cape eye doctor) red blends are only available through the Co-Op.

Turtle Creek Winery
Another local hero has already made the transition from gentleman farmer to full-time commercial winemaker. Kip Kumler of Turtle Creek Winery in Lincoln, MA has something of a hybrid operation. He imports some of his fruit from California and upstate New York, but also grows Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Riesling in Lincoln. Turtle Creek's Fall Tasting event brings Kip's devoted customers into the winery for an afternoon of tasting and, of course, buying.

Turtle Creek's growing popularity is good for Kip, bad for VinoDuo. Our favorite wine, the estate Cab Franc, was sold out and not available for tasting. So we dived in to the other offerings and came up with a few winners.

What we bought

2009 Syrah: At 16.5% alcohol, Turtle Creek's 4th Syrah vintage shouldn't taste this smooth and subtle. Sourced from Naggiar Vineyards, Grass Valley (CA) and aged in new French oak for 19 months, the wine tastes of deep current and white chocolate, with a long finish.
2008 Late Harvest Zinfandel: These grapes traveled from the Wildwood Vineyards, Amador (CA) to Lincoln. Now they're resting comfortably in VinoDuo's cellar, waiting for that first crisp fall night. Light a fire, complain about the weather, and sip this gorgeous dessert wine. Chocolate and caramel notes with great balance.

Now in its 11th year, Turtle Creek produces 900 cases of premium wines. If you live in Massachusetts, lucky you. Turtle Creek Wines are carried at more than 60 retail locations, largely in greater Boston. You can also find Kip himself at many Winter Farmer's Markets in the area.

Next up for the Massachusetts wine trail...the Cabernet crush at Zoll Cellars Winery in Shrewsbury, MA (yup, where Spags was.) Details to follow.

Newport Wine & Food Festival '11

garym@kilojolts.com (Gary) — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 19:33:51 GMT

Late September is such a bittersweet time in the VinoDuo household. Heat lovers and sun worshipers to the core, the end of summer and the beginning of fall means colder temperatures, less daylight—basically hibernation until a winter escape or the dawn of spring. But we’re also ardent wine lovers, and late September brings the harvest and wine events galore. So what better way to celebrate the coming seasons of gloom than with a “go out with a bang” bacchanal at the Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival? Glam location, stunning views, just-released wines, and small bites from local restaurants and caterers—what’s not to love? And while the crowds get a bit bigger and less refined each year (no apologies from these wine snobs), Newport remains a must-attend event on the fall wine calendar.

The Food
This year we skipped the all-star chefs tent and indulged in the plentiful tastings from some of southern New England’s top chefs. From Rhode Island’s hottest (and most expensive -- $800/night!) new resort, The Ocean House in Watch Hill, we enjoyed a light-as-air vanilla bean mousse with mango salsa.

The Surf and Turf popovers from David Burke Prime (at Foxwoods) were standouts, as was the Heirloom Tomato Soup from the Spiced Pear at the Chanler. The dark chocolate bites from Chocolate Springs Café (Lenox, MA) were the ideal complement to Graham’s 20 Year Tawny Port, conveniently located at the adjacent table.

The Wine
And while we never turn down free food, the Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival is, for us, all about the wine (we can’t speak for the folks lining up at the Stella Artois beer tent or the Cutty Sark table.) Every year, we discover a couple of gems among the wasteland of wineries bringing not-ready-to-drink wines at outrageous prices seeking Robert Parker labeling or the never-ready-to-drink “people pleasing” wines, priced low and factory-made. VinoDuo was on the lookout for well-made, well-priced wines with character that are ready (or on the cusp) to drink and pair nicely with Gary’s cooking.

Wine	Retail Price	Why?
Merry Edwards 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (Sonoma)	$42	We fell in love with all of Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noirs (delightfully presented by her husband and partner Ken Coopersmith), but Lisa was particularly taken by this lower-priced multi-vineyard blend. Inky color and rich flavor were very un-Pinot but mighty tasty
Merry Edwards 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir	$42	Lisa flipped over the next vintage of Russian River Valley four- vineyard blend. While it’s not ready for drinking yet, it shows enormous promise.
Merry Edwards 2008 Meredith Estate Russian River Pinot Noir	$57	A single-vineyard Pinot. Fullness of fruit, velvety and great balance…ready now or can lay down.
Merry Edwards 2008 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir	$57	Gary’s favorite has delicious fruit, mineral and silkiness throughout. Single vineyard from Ted Klopp’s 30-year-old vines.
Ladera 2007 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa)	$70+	We imagined the best steaks we’ve had with this as a perfect match. Will cellar well, but the price is a bit steep.
Meteor Vineyard 2008 Perseid Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa)	$150+	100% Cab from a single vineyard with three different clones. This will be a showstopper in a few years; not ready now but clearly worth the gamble. Price point is well beyond our reach but…
Torbreck 2007 The Steading (Barossa Valley, Australia)	$35	Perfection in a bottle! This GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro) is among the best we”ve tasted. Silky tannins and supple/subtle dark berry flavors make this a perfect wine for just about all foods! A must-buy.
Rubro Vendemmia 2004 Colli Martani Sangiovese (Umbria, Italy)	$25	Great balance of fruit, tannin and acid to make this a perfect wine to have at any dinner table, especially with pasta. Can also age a bit, but ready to drink now. Just delicious!

Long Island Redux

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 01:16:59 GMT

Five years ago, VinoDuo took its first road trip to the North Fork of Long Island to check out the vineyards popping up where potatoes and onions once grew. We fell in love with the region, bought a case-full of wine, and wrote a lengthy post about our travels.

Fast forward to 2011. With no summer vacation plans, VinoDuo was desperate for a quick get-away. And since most Long Island wineries lack distribution beyond the Empire State (or even their winery, in some cases) we had long run out of North Fork wine. So we hopped in the car, two hours down Rt 95, a quick ferry ride to Orient Point, and we were back on Long Island.

Long story short, we fell back in love with the region (particularly Greenport,) bought two cases of wine, and will...soon...write a lengthy post about our visit. In the meantime, here are some pix and a quick list of must-visit wineries.

One Woman Wines - 1st visit
Sherwood House Vineyards - 1st visit
Mattebella Vineyards - 1st visit
Waters Crest - Return engagement

Stay tuned for a "where to stay, what to drink, what we bought" write up in the coming weeks.

Vibrant Rioja Comes to Boston

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Thu, 21 Apr 2011 00:01:00 GMT

Way back in November 2010 VinoDuo attended a delightful tasting at Clio in Boston’s Eliot Hotel. The event was sponsored by Vibrant Rioja, the marketing arm of Spain’s fabled Rioja wine region. And while five months has passed since the tasting (busy, busy, busy,) our notes were detailed and our memories clear. So read on…

We’re still amateurs when it comes to understanding Spanish wines, so we jumped at the chance to expand our knowledge at the Vibrant Rioja mid-day wine tasting last November. Of course, holding the event at Clio was a very smart move; it’s one of Boston’s top restaurants with a price point beyond VinoDuo’s post-recession budget. So even if we weren’t fans of the wine (which we are), we’d still blow off work for an hour or two to sample Clio’s cooking.

First, Some Background

La Rioja province is in northern Spain (including part of the autonomous Basque region), with three sub-regions spanning acreage about the size of Delaware. The grapes in most Rioja wines are predominantly Tempranillo and Garnacha, with the occasional Manzuela, Graciano, and, rarely, Cabernet Sauvignon. Rioja whites are typically produced from Viura, Malvasia, and Garnacha Blanca varietals. About the whites, Lisa and Gary agree, the less said the better. Rioja is appropriately known for its reds and that’s what we’re reviewing.

At the Tasting

Our red tasting started with the CVNE Vina Real Crianza 2007 from Basilio Izquierdo. Gary found this wine to be “complex, with a full feel on the palate and a long finish. Ready to drink and actually quite delicious.” Ever the contrarian, Lisa had just one word to describe the wine…“No!”

Next, we got a generous pour of the Castillo Labastida Reserva 2004, also from Alavesa. According to Lisa, this 100% Tempranillo was “hot, bitter and actually tasted like it had been in oak for 36 months.” Tell us what you really think, Lisa. Gary found the wine to have too much minerality (calcium?) and notes of sour cherries. “In this case, the wine was released too early (yes, even a 2004 can be too early); it needs to mellow out. Some folks might find it ready to drink, but not us.”

The third offering, Bodegas La Rioja Alta S.A. Vina Ardanza 2000 (80% Tempranillo Rioja Alta, 20% Garnacha Rioja Baja), is from one of the region’s oldest and best producers. The wine? Amazing! Lisa said, “Tastes like a delicious Syrah but with a beautiful, caramel-red color in the glass. Gary noted that the wine “displayed light minerality but smoothed out in the glass.” Caramel color is a telltale sign of a well-aged wine. This Rioja is definitely ready to drink. ($28-$35)

Vibrant Rioja saved the best for last. The Bodegas Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva 2002 (Rioja Alta 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha) won VinoDuo’s best in show. We were told that this was “textbook Rioja with no compromise.” Lisa noted the great depth of flavor and terroir calling it “marvelous.” Gary pronounced it “outstanding” and asked for another pour to be certain that this wine was as good as it seemed. It was! ($37 - $40).

So are the wines from Rioja vibrant? It’s impossible to generalize about such a diverse region, but we left the tasting feeling rather vibrant, and that’s a good sign of pleasing wine.

Boston Wine Expo 2011

garym@kilojolts.com (Gary) — Sun, 17 Apr 2011 00:45:00 GMT

With popularity come the hordes. The Boston Wine Expo had become so successful that wading through crowds to uncover great new wine was hardly worth the effort. Thankfully, the Wine Expo producers heard the trade and media whines loud and clear. This year’s Expo featured a new format which allowed wine buyers, sellers, distributors and the press free reign over the show for three hours of serious wine tasting and conversation. It was such a pleasure to take a few minutes to chat with winemakers and their representatives about their products without the crush of humanity in the aisles.

Australia

Cognizant of the short amount of time we had for our tasting tour, we started with Tick Tock, a relatively new label (to us) from Robert Oatley Wines. We tasted the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon and think this will be a pretty good wine in a couple of years. The tannins were a stiff as a board, actually they were overboard. But in a year to 18 months this wine may soften enough to be approachable and reveal the flavors that the Tic Toc web site suggests… “bright ripe cherry, blackcurrant and leafy notes…Generous ‘forest fruits’ – ripe red berries to the fore, layered yet soft tannins and a lovely crisp, fresh finish that leaves you wanting for more.” We’re looking forward to trying this wine again and hope that we’ll be able to taste the forest fruits through the trees.

New England

Next stop Plymouth Rock… well, not quite, but we visited with the folks from the Mayflower Winery in Plymouth MA. While their primary focus was on non-grape fruit wines, we did find some lovely “real” wine to sample. Mayflower sources its grapes from Massachusetts, New York, and California varietals. The Mayflower Red is composed of Zinfandel (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) juice. We found it to be light, fruit-forward, and serious—not what we expected from the makers of Cranberry Blush, blueberry, and apple “wines.” At 12½ percent alcohol, it was actually pretty refreshing. VinoDuo loves to patronize small local wineries, and Mayflower’s Red is as local as it comes. It retails for @ $12 and may just be an excellent stand-in for your favorite Montepulciano D’Abruzzo pizza/burger wine.

Next stop on the New England wine tour was Sharpe Hill. We first visited the Sharpe Hill winery in Pomfret, CT a few years ago and had mixed feelings about their wines. In fact, our write-up of our visit got a number of “boos” from readers, who thought we shouldn’t apply the same critical standards to local wineries as we do the big boys. We disagree.

During our on-site tasting, Sharpe Hill’s standout was the rightly popular Ballet of Angels, a wine that’s made entirely from Vignoles grapes. At the 2011 Boston Wine Expo we tried Sharpe again and were impressed with the 2008 Cabernet Franc. Delicious on the palate, balancing excellent tannin structure, strawberry and blueberry notes with a smooth finish. At @ $19 it’s a bit pricey, but if you love Cabernet Franc and you’re a locavore committed to supporting New England wineries, this could be on your shopping list.

Spain

As always we perused the “collector” tables scattered throughout the Boston Wine Expo. These tables—grouped with individual wineries that either cannot afford booths of their own or are marketed as fine examples of wines of the region—included offerings from Spain, Portugal, France, Australia and New Zealand. One Spanish wine really stood out. The 2004 Marqués de Peñamonte Crianza from Bodegas Riojanas is 100% Tempranillo, with a dark crimson appearance and aromas of oak and vanilla. On the palate this supple wine featured black cherry and a long memorable finish. At $18 - $20 it’s a relative bargain and we’ll be on the lookout for it in our favorite wine shops.

Portugal

For our Port loving readers, we did not forget you! Both the 1995 Vista Alegre Colheita (@ $40) and the 20 Year old Tawny Port (@$58) from Vallegre are amazing bargains. Gary said “Gimme a cigar!” Of course, he doesn’t smoke cigars, but it seemed an appropriate request at the time. Both Ports provided terrific mouth-feel and long memorable finishes. Outstanding!

Staying with the Portugal theme, we tasted the 2006 Alem Red from conglomerate Enoforum, a blend of Syrah and Touriga National. This wine straddles the old and new world flavor profiles, with complexity, fruit, and a fine, long finish. At $17 it’s a terrific bargain and once again proves that one doesn’t need to spend $30 to enjoy a great bottle of wine. On a whim we tasted the 2008 Montaria Vinho Regional Alentejano Reserva; after all, how good could a $10 bottle really be? Well, we were impressed with this wine from the Alentejano region of south central part of Portugal. The Reserva, comprised of the indigenous grapes Trincadeira, Alicante Boushet, and Aregonez, has deep black fruit notes on the palate with nice intermediate spicy oaked mineral finish. We think that this needs to be laid down for 6 months to a year to achieve its full potential.

On our way out of Portugal we tried Teseo Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007, which featured bright, delicious fruit with vanilla/tobacco notes. Most Primitivo wines offer some level of funkiness; mushroom-earthy is a typical description. But not here; this is a delicious wine with vanilla/tobacco aromas on the nose and red, ripe fruit on the palate with a satisfying finish. Another example of a wine that proves you can have it all; a fair price at $10 and a great everyday wine.

Italy

Before we left the show and made way for the soon-to-invade crowds, we stopped at the Puglia region—the boot—of Italy. The Pichierri Tradizione Del Nonno Primitivo Di Manduria 2007 ($24), was a great way to close out the 2011 Boston Wine Expo. The Primitivo was simply the best of this varietal—a kin to Zinfandel—we’ve tasted. If you love the black fruit and spiciness of Zinfandel (with 16% alcohol!) and are looking for a bit more complexity to match with more foods, this is your wine. Just starting to get distribution into New England…let’s all go to Puglia and taste the wine at the source!

A Bordeaux Tasting by Invitation

garym@kilojolts.com (Gary) — Mon, 28 Feb 2011 23:27:00 GMT

Being a wine blogger often has its privileges. Sometimes it’s in the form of free entry to a mass wine tasting or, even better, to a small gathering of other wine snobs, I mean aficionados. And then there are the super-perks, like getting an email from a PR firm asking if we’d like free wine! Us, free wine? Well, ok, sure, if you insist.

That’s the invitation that landed in our in-box last month from Planet Bordeaux’s PR agency. We were invited to sample some of the wines of Bordeaux from the lower-priced $10–$20 a bottle range. Planet Bordeaux had a couple of goals in mind:

Introduce less celebrated—and less expensive--Bordeaux wines displaying the “character that has made Bordeaux one of the most well-known and well-respected wine regions of the world.” (their quotes)
Illustrate to Americans that Bordeaux wines are “about more than classified growths and wine reviews… that they are about the place, the people and the lifestyle of Bordeaux.”

The folks at Planet Bordeaux (www.planet-bordeaux.com) provided us with a generous list of roughly 35 wines from the 2005 to 2008 vintages, suggesting that we select no more than 10 samples for evaluation. So we chose carefully and were told that we have “excellent taste.” Gary said “we’ll see…”

Our shipment from Planet Bordeaux arrived with 7 of the 10 wines we requested. We immediately broadcast the availability of free wine to our friends next door—knowledgeable wine lovers in their own right—and scheduled a tasting. As with any wine tasting event, the food was central to the experience. Drawing on our (albeit limited) knowledge of Bordeaux, we selected a variety of cheeses and ordered some delicious barbecued chicken from Blue Ribbon BBQ in Arlington, a VinoDuo favorite. Yes, Lisa would have preferred ribs with her Bordeaux, but a high cholesterol reading has curtailed this avid carnivore.)

Our basic approach for the tasting involved bracketing wine by year: To 2005’s, 2006’s and one each of 2007 & 2008. All wines were allowed to breath for 3 hours prior to the tasting.

What We Tasted, What We Thought

	Year	Composition	Retail Price	Tasting Notes	Ranking 1=Excellent 7 = Poor
Chateau Bois-Malot*	2005	50% Cabernet Sauvignon,30% Merlot 20% Cab Franc	$10	“Limestone notes with spicy palate,” “Thin and not enough fruit in the mouth,” “light and pleasant,” “I imagine that this would be a good pizza and burger wine,” “old world without the complexity… taste is equal to the price; disappointed”	5.
Domaine de Cantemerle* “Grains du Terroir”	2005	Merlot, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot	$15	“Excellent with food-barbecue…some spiciness, some anise and licorice, vanilla and oak…nice balance and longish finish… I would buy!” “Smooth, velvety and nice finish…a favorite already!”	1.
Chateau Bellevue Peycharneau*	2006	65% Merlot, 20% Cab Sauv, 15% Cab Franc	$15	“Bottle was tainted as we got the tell-tail signs of coconut, passion fruit and sour cherries…too bad,” “this wine had some potential with a nice earthy nose, but no pay-off and it tasted funny”	7.
Chateau Malbec	2006	Merlot, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Malbec	$10	“Yech…Smelled like low tide at a polluted beach” “thin with no complexity no discerning characteristics” “Had high hopes for this wine; perhaps this bottle was tainted as well”	7.
Chateau Haut Chatain*	2006	60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon	$15	“Deep, dark, beefy with hints of cherry ganache,” “old world with cherry compote toasty oak and a long, smooth finish…very good” “I would buy”	2.
Chateau Montlau*	2007	Merlot	$10	“Earthy nose with hints of vanilla… sharp palate with big tannins and notes of black fruits… tannins are too tight—wine needs time” “beautiful nose with earthy vanilla notes… rustic and old world—needs time”	3.
Chateau Les Vergnes	2008	55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc	$12	“Amazing nose with explosive cherry notes on the palate—tannins still too tightly wound needing more time to settle out,” “Tastes like jug-wine… needs lots of time”	4.

The unanimous winner was the Domaine de Cantemerle, which got four out of four first place votes. Second place went to Chateau Haut Chatain. Both wines run @$15, which is on the higher end of the spectrum of our samples but a pretty good bargain for quality Bordeaux blends.

Conclusions:

With two out of seven wines rated a "must buy," we think Planet Bordeaux is on the right track introducing wine lovers to some well-priced options.
The $10-$20 price point is pretty crowded with very good wine from Argentina, Chile, Spain, and Portugal. Bordeaux will have to fight hard to get Americans to migrate from crowd-pleasing vintages from the New World (and Iberia) to French wines with complicated labels.
If Planet Bordeaux was looking for quick feedback on its wines, it shouldn't have shipped vintages that weren't ready for consumption. Perhaps we should have pulled the 2007 and 2008 bottles out of the tasting and laid them down for a minimum of 6 months prior to opening.

We appreciate being included in the Planet Bordeaux awareness campaign and look forward to learning more.

VinoDuo's European Vacation

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Fri, 18 Feb 2011 02:27:00 GMT

October is a great time to visit Mediterranean Europe; the crowds have dissipated and the weather is still quite pleasant with temperatures in the high 60’s to low 70’s. And while our crazy romantic side said, “Let’s take a month and do the Italian vineyards,” our heads and pocketbooks said, “Let’s grab a cruise and cram as much into a week as we can.” So we shuffled off to Barcelona, the cruise’s launch pad, for a few days of pre-sailing urban life in one of the world’s great cities.

Upon our arrival in Barcelona, we found out that Lisa’s luggage took a detour to Belgrade. Belgrade-Barcelona; I guess they sounded the same to Boston’s Swiss Air baggage crew. So along with some unplanned wardrobe shopping (all together now…poor Lisa), VinoDuo found a few terrific spots to learn about, enjoy, and buy Spanish wine.

BARCELONA

Xampany Wine Shop -- Valencia 200, Barcelona

Our cruise line’s rules allow passengers to bring two bottles of wine on board. So VinoDuo went shopping and stumbled on Xampany, a marvelous wine shop not far from the hotel This place was a real hoot; a throwback to the 60’s with store’s “office” set up in an open loft overlooking the sales counter. The proprietor sat at an oak roll-top desk with the warm glow of a banker’s desk-lamp nearby. Fortunately his English was better than our Catalan. We fessed up to a limited knowledge of Spanish wine and he produced two fine specimens to bring on board, one from Rioja the other from Priorat, a wine region south of Barcelona.

The stand-out was the 2006 Les Terrasses Alvaro Palacios Priorat. Priorat is a “prestigious” blend usually including Garnacha Tinta, Garnacha Peluda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Priorat almost always features relatively higher alcohol content (> 15%).

We brought this bottle to one of our dinners aboard ship, hoping to make fast friends with our table mates. Readers, it worked! We hooked up with a marvelous couple from the UK who shared our love of wine and travel. The Priorat was a hit with all of us, complementing chicken and veal dishes. This garnet/purple wine had an earthy nose with hints of leather, pipe tobacco, and black cherries. On the palate it was delicious with a slightly full fruit-forward taste followed by silky tannins for a smooth palate-feel and a long, delicious finish. An amazing value for @ $35 US.

Cata 1.81 – Barcelona (wine bar)

As we ambled around the streets of Barcelona near the terrific Hotel Amister we stumbled on the hip wine bar Cata 1.81. The bar wears a modern industrial look with a welcoming personality. We were immediately seated with another group at a community table with a couple from Baltimore and their local guide, who was leading a tour of Barcelona’s best wine bars. Now there’s a Career 2.0 idea for VinoDuo!

We enjoyed the Tapas menu and one wine, the 2006 Castillo Perelada Empordà Finca Malaveïna (Blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot), really stood out. Hints of leather and cassis on the nose and blackberry-cherry licorice notes on the palate ending in a complex, fruity finish.

ON THE CRUISE

Fattoria Maionchi, Via di Tofori 81, 55012 – Capannori (Lu)

When we docked in Livorno, most of our shipmates awoke pre-dawn and took the hours-long ride to Florence. We chose the more civilized mid-morning drive through the centuries-old wine region of Lucca to Fattoria Maionchi, a 17th century Villa and winery featuring both apartments (for rent at estate) and several wines, Vinsanto, Grappa and olive oils.

The setting was fairy-tale perfect. Lush farmland surrounding the historic ochre and brick villa. Vibrant gardens bursting with purple, orange, and red plantings. And vineyards that took your breath away. If Peter Mayle had stopped at Fattoria Maionchi on his way to Provence, he would have spent his year here instead.

Our visit started with a tour of the wine cellar. Its thick, mottled walls of quarry rock revealed generations of winemaking history. In this naturally temperature controlled sub-basement, the guide shared Fattoria Maionchi’s process for aging its wine.

New and old oak casks line the walls along with the leftovers from vintages past. The usually articulate Gary just kept repeating “wow.” Perhaps he was calculating how to convert our basement crawl space cum wine cellar into something more akin to this beauty.

What We Tasted

We settled in to the modern tasting room with about a dozen other cruisemates and were treated to a tasting of the Estate’s wines plus a hair-raising Grappa.

Rosso delle Colline Lucchesi '09 D.O.C. (sangiovese 65%, ciliegiolo 20%, canaiolo 10%, colorino 5%): Deep garnet color with a bright berry nose. Rough and rustic flavors.
Colline Lucchesi bianco '09 D.O.C. (trebbiano toscano 65%, greco 15%, vermentino bianco 15%, malvasia del chianti 5%”): Intense color but bland on the palate; citrus finish with hint of vanilla.
Arcangelo '06 DOC (sangiovese 70%, merlot 30%): A more intense, structured red than the Rosso delle Colline. Deep dark, inky red color; dark red fruit flavors, with a long finish.
Lisa called the Vin Santo (a traditional white dessert wine) “liquid gold.” Very concentrated; ideally matched with an almod biscotti
The Grappa, which VinoDuo first tried during a ski trip in the Italian Alps, was delicious A uniquely Italian drink made from the dregs of the grapes, Grappa can be up to 60% alcohol. One sip of the Estate’s and we had enough, but fondly remember its surprisingly nutty character.

At the conclusion of the main tasting, Gary did some undercover work and found another wine held back from the tasting. Since his family motto is “if you don’t ask, you don’t get,” he asked and we got. The 2003 Cintello IGT (Sangiovese 85%, Canaiolo 15%) was supple and complex with deep black fruit and cherry notes A very good super-Tuscan style wine with the kind of personality that we look for in a @ $30 - $35 wine. So we bought a bottle and shared it with our new-found friends on the ship, accompanied by a selection of cheeses.

We had a memorable day at Fattoria Maionchi. The wine was above average at best, but when the atmospherics and gracious hospitality are factored in, it was an excursion well worth taking. As for the wine, if we can find their Cintello locally we’ll certainly put it on our must-buy list.

Next stop: Cheese Tasting in Rome

Boston Wine Expo 2011: Preview

lisa@fruittcomm.com (Lisa) — Fri, 21 Jan 2011 03:26:00 GMT

If it's freezing, snowy, and dreary outside, it's time for the Boston Wine Expo, that little ray of Italian, French, California, and Argentinian sunshine for local wine lovers...or anyone who just wants to spend a warm day indoors drinking. For VinoDuo, the Boston Wine Expo is a great opportunity to broaden our horizons and taste wines from emerging regions; re-visit old favorites to see how their latest vintages turned out; and scarf some free cheese, chocolates, and other goodies from the non-wine purveyors.

We've scoured the 2011 exhibitors on the Expo's web site and found a few "must re-visit" wineries we highly recommend you check out. VINO DUO READERS CAN GET $15 OFF THE SUNDAY (1/23) GRAND TASTING TICKETS BY GOING TO THE BOSTON WINE EXPO WEB SITE AND FILLING IN "VINODUO" IN THE DISCOUNT CODE! Act quickly...you must purchase your tickets by end of day Saturday, January 22 to get the discount.

We had a blast during our 2009 trip to the New York Finger Lakes and continue to seek out wine from many of the region's producers. We're pleased to see that three of our favorites will be at the Boston Wine Expo.

Ravines

What They're Pouring at the Expo

Dry Riesling (2008)
Chardonnay (2008)
Cabernet Franc (2008)
Meritage (2007)
Pinot Noir (2008)

What We Wrote About Ravines

“A winery where the quality of the wines matched the classic beauty of the tasting room. Winemaker Morten Hallgren is a French transplant whose family owned Domaine de Castel Roubine in Provence. Before opening Ravines in 2003, Hallgren was chief winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank Wines.

We bought the 2006 Meritage “Big, bold fruit and just the right amount of pepper and spice; probably should cellar a year or so” and the 2007 Cabernet Franc – Spicy nose, cherry flavors and some white pepper."

Dr. Franks

What they’re Pouring at the Expo

Dry Riesling (2009)
Semi Dry Riesling (2009)
Rkatsiteli (2008)
Fleur de Pinot Noir (2008)
Blanc de Blancs (2006)

What We Wrote About Dr. Frank's

"We approached Dr. Frank's with trepidation. There's a kind of cult of personality surrounding the place. But we loved most of the wine. Add in the drop-dead gorgeous view of the lake and this is one tasting experience you shouldn't miss. We walked out with half a case, including the 2007 Chardonnay (Crisp citrus aroma; lime flavors too; little butter some oak); the 2007 Dry Riesling (Floral and citrus nose; delicious spicy pear and grapefruit flavors), and the 2002 Chateau Frank Blanc de Noir–-Elegant and delicious."

Red Newt

What they’re Pouring at the Expo

Circle Label Riesling
Riesling Reserve

What We Wrote About Red Newt

"We indulged in a marvelous lunch at Red Newt Bistro, the acclaimed restaurant at Red Newt Cellars in Hector. Red Newt’s 2008 Syrah/Cab Franc blend. Its pale pink color looks like a White Zin, but the luscious grapefruit on the nose and apricot on the palate were most sophisticated.

Since it was the middle of the day, Gary decided to go with the Dry White Flight. This time, the tastes were all Red Newt varietals. The Chardonnay was a light hay color with a butterscotch nose and bright, white grape juice flavors—delicious. Gary also loved the Yellow Jail blend, with its clean apricot and honeydew aroma and pink grapefruit taste."

Turtle Creek Winery
New York isn't the only cold climate to produce wonderful wine. A stones throw from Lexington, in Lincoln, MA, you'll find Turtle Creek Winery.

What They’re Pouring at the Expo

Riesling (2009)
Syrah (2008)
Zinfandel (2007)
Late Harvest Zinfandel

What We Wrote About Turtle Creek

"We bought the 2006 Dry Riesling (gets his grapes from Sheldrake Vineyard in the Finger Lakes) “fresh, clean, with flavors of grapefruit and tart apple. [Producer Kip] Kumler released the wine in September 2008 after 10 months in stainless and a year in the bottle. He produced just 624 bottles; we feel lucky to have snagged one of them.”

We were less enthralled with the Zin.“He imports his grapes from Wildwood Vineyards in Amador County, California. But don’t expect a big fat juicy, chewy, smoky Zin. As the Turtle Creek website puts it, this Zinfandel is “idiosyncratic, with half of the grapes left on skins, after fermentation, for two months.” So you lose color, and you lose some POW! What you gain is some earthiness and, according to Kumler, elegance. Well, call us rubes, but if we wanted elegance we would order a Pinot Noir. We do look forward with great anticipation to the 2009 Zin, which Kip says will have more depth of color and more Zin impact.”

Cameron Hughes Wine

We're intrigued by Cameron Hughes' business model. They buy up excess juice from prominent (but unnamed) wineries, bottle it under their own label below the original price. We'll be stopping by their table at the Expo to see if we can unmask the 'real' winemakers!

What they’re Pouring at the Expo

Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (2007)
Lot 214 - Los Carneros Chardonnay (2009)
Zin Your Face (2008)
The Flying Winemaker Malbec (2008)
The Flying Winemaker Zinfandel (2007)

Don't take our word for these raves...get down to the Boston Wine Expo and taste for yourself!