Masterpiece Theatre Meets La Dolce Vita at WGBH Wine Event

The impressive new studios of WGBH were the ideal backdrop for a mid-winter sampling of Italian wine and local cheeses. The stunning conference room was packed; no servants from Downton Abbey, no Muppets from Sesame Street but plenty of freeloading wine writers and trade reps were on hand to sample wines from four regions of Italy.

 
 
Our tasting tour guide was wine columnist Michael Apstein, who led the group through an uneven selection of three white wines and six reds from Apulia (southeastern Italy), Marche (Central, on the Adriatic), Tuscany (you know where that is), and Lombardy (North, on the Swiss border.)

VinoDuo’s knowledge of Italian wines is also uneven: we go deep in a few areas (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Chianti, Brunello), wide in others, like Prosecco. And then there’s a big blank.  So we were excited to sample wines made from varietals we had never heard of (Pecorino, Marzemino) let alone tasted.

 

Cut to the Chase – What to Buy

  • Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte DOC Reserva 2008, Torrevento     $25
  • Chianti Classico DOCG 2009, Poggio Bonelli,                                 $20
  • Le Sincette Garda Classico Rosso DOC 2007                                 $38

White Wines Tasted

Pecorino Offida DOC 2010 (100% Pecorino grapes)
Cantina Offida, Marche

A split decision from VinoDuo. Gary thought it had a pleasant floral character on the nose with hints of nectarine and fresh melon. He found the taste “Surprisingly lively with a good balance of melon fruits, acidity and minerality.”  Lisa detected pineapple and coconut on the nose; would a Pina Colada be in the offering?  Alas, no. “Highly acidic; undrinkable,” read her tasting notes. Gary immediately thought of the Pecorino being served ice cold with cocktail shrimp, Alaskan crab legs or even a cold lobster salad. Lisa thought of pouring it in the spit jar and moving on. $8-$10 retail but no US distribution yet.

Vermentino Toscana IGT 2010 (100% Vermentino)
Sada, Tuscany

The Duo was Uno on the Vermentino: nope. This was more like what Gary remembered about Italian white wines that he had tasted in the past. Beautiful on the nose…Lisa picked up lychee and apricot, with a very clean scent. Then, bam! Gary said the overpowering mineral taste made it “more like an astringent than a consumable beverage.”

Il Selva Bianco Locorotondo DOC 2010 (60% Verdeca, 35% Bianco d'Alessano, 5% Fiano)
Albea, Apulia

Another split decision. This very pale, almost clear wine had a honeysuckle nose and, to Lisa, an acceptable acidity that made it the ideal deck wine. Gary said the nose reminded him of Welch’s White Grape juice and the palate delivered the polar opposite—full of sour minerality.

So, on to the reds.

Red Wines Tasted

Primitivo Puglia IGP 2010
Amastuola, Apulia


Our first red was a Primitivo (the clone/kin of American Zinfandel) from Apulia. We’ve enjoyed many lovely Primitivos and were charmed by this wine’s nose of dark caramelized plums, blackberry, and vanilla. But the spicy black fruit flavors and a nice acidity/tannin balance were overpowered by an abrupt mineral finish. At $15, this is a good buy but we still prefer Pichierri Tradizione Del Nonno Primitivo Di Manduria 2007 ($24), Castello Monaci ($14), Flaio Primitivo Salento 2006 ($8), and Castello Monaci Piluna 2006 ($14)

Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte DOC Reserva 2008
Torrevento, Apulia

An unusual wine (to VinoDuo) made from 100% Nero di Troia grapes. A terrific nose with dark fruits and some licorice notes. Superior balance of fruit, tannin and alcohol.  The fruit is tightly wound (concentrated) releasing slowly over the long, silky finish. Gary thought that his eggplant lasagna or eggplant Parmesan dishes would be perfect for this gem. Tastes like a $40 bottle yet its pre-release (will be imported this year into the US) pricing is around $25.  Once this is on the shelves in the US, it will definitely be a "Must Buy.”

Chianti Classico DOCG 2009  (90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot)
Poggio Bonelli, Tuscany

With its outstanding cherry-vanilla nose and food-friendly palate, this classic Chianti is a must-have-on-the-shelf buy at $17 - $20.

Vigneto della Rana Chianti DOCG 2009  (90% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo)
Castella di San Sano, Tuscany

A "hot" nose with hints of blackberries, currants, and prunes. Presented well at first taste but the flavor did not hold up to the alcohol or the ever-present minerality.  Gary called it “overbearing.”  Not one of VinoDuo's favorites.

Le Sincette Garda Classico Rosso DOC 2007
Le Sincette, Lombardy

This wine was the hit of the tasting!  A smooth blend of Gropello Gentile, Marzemino, Barbera, and Sangiovese grapes. Velvety tannins coupled with notes of caramel, dried bing cherries, and butterscotch.  The long finish goes on and on!  At $35-$40, it's outside of our usual "Must-Buy" limit, but we'll make an exception here. 

Sapaio Bolgheru Superiore DOC 2008
Podere Sapaio, Tuscany

The final wine in the tasting is a classic blend associated more with Bordeaux than Tuscany: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 15% Petit Verdot.  So we asked the wine-maker what was up with this.  His answer? "We're Trying to compete with Bordeaux and California."

This is a big wine that needs a steak, venison or other hearty foods.  We thought that the taste/tannins presented like a big California Cab blend.  But this $55 wine is still quite young and needs time to resolve in the bottle.  It will be a terrific wine within 18 months and should have good cellaring capability. 

 

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