Way back in November 2010 VinoDuo attended a delightful tasting at Clio in Boston’s Eliot Hotel. The event was sponsored by Vibrant Rioja, the marketing arm of Spain’s fabled Rioja wine region. And while five months has passed since the tasting (busy, busy, busy,) our notes were detailed and our memories clear. So read on…

We’re still amateurs when it comes to understanding Spanish wines, so we jumped at the chance to expand our knowledge at the Vibrant Rioja mid-day wine tasting last November.  Of course, holding the event at Clio was a very smart move; it’s one of Boston’s top restaurants with a price point beyond VinoDuo’s post-recession budget. So even if we weren’t fans of the wine (which we are), we’d still blow off work for an hour or two to sample Clio’s cooking.

First, Some Background

La Rioja province is in northern Spain (including part of the autonomous Basque region), with three sub-regions spanning acreage about the size of Delaware. The grapes in most Rioja wines are predominantly Tempranillo and Garnacha, with the occasional Manzuela, Graciano, and, rarely, Cabernet Sauvignon.  Rioja whites are typically produced from Viura, Malvasia, and Garnacha Blanca varietals. About the whites, Lisa and Gary agree, the less said the better. Rioja is appropriately known for its reds and that’s what we’re reviewing.

At the Tasting

Our red tasting started with the CVNE Vina Real Crianza 2007  from Basilio Izquierdo. Gary found this wine to be “complex, with a full feel on the palate and a long finish.  Ready to drink and actually quite delicious.” Ever the contrarian, Lisa had just one word to describe the wine…“No!” 

Next, we got a generous pour of the Castillo Labastida Reserva 2004, also from Alavesa. According to Lisa, this 100% Tempranillo was “hot, bitter and actually tasted like it had been in oak for 36 months.” Tell us what you really think, Lisa. Gary found the wine to have too much minerality (calcium?) and notes of sour cherries. “In this case, the wine was released too early (yes, even a 2004 can be too early); it needs to mellow out.  Some folks might find it ready to drink, but not us.”

The third offering, Bodegas La Rioja Alta S.A. Vina Ardanza 2000 (80% Tempranillo Rioja Alta, 20% Garnacha Rioja Baja), is from one of the region’s oldest and best producers. The wine? Amazing!  Lisa said, “Tastes like a delicious Syrah but with a beautiful, caramel-red color in the glass.  Gary noted that the wine “displayed light minerality but smoothed out in the glass.”  Caramel color is a telltale sign of a well-aged wine. This Rioja is definitely ready to drink. ($28-$35)

Vibrant Rioja saved the best for last.  The Bodegas Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva 2002 (Rioja Alta 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha) won VinoDuo’s best in show.  We were told that this was “textbook Rioja with no compromise.”  Lisa noted the great depth of flavor and terroir calling it “marvelous.”  Gary pronounced it “outstanding” and asked for another pour to be certain that this wine was as good as it seemed.  It was! ($37 - $40).

So are the wines from Rioja vibrant?  It’s impossible to generalize about such a diverse region, but we left the tasting feeling rather vibrant, and that’s a good sign of pleasing wine.