It’s every baby boomer’s dream: turn a passionate hobby into a second career. Some folks make jewelry. Others open a yoga studio or a used bookshop. And what wine lover hasn’t daydreamed about cultivating a few acres in Napa or Sonoma? Well, one 60ish Optometrist on Cape Cod has expanded his life-long hobby of making homemade wine for friends and family into the Cape Winery Co-Op. Dr. Frank Puzio hasn’t quit his day job—he’s one of the Cape’s most respected and innovative eye doctors—but he’s grown from a vino-hobbyist to an accomplished small-batch winemaker.

The Winemaker 

We met Frank and his wife, Diane, through a friend and fellow wine enthusiast. She told us about a home-based winemaker with a fabulous home on the Cape and a talent for crafting Old World reds from California grapes. We smiled, but winced. Gary’s grandfather made wine on the back porch of his triple-decker in Malden, Mass. Frank Puzio’s grandfather Dominic made wine in the basement. Other passionate amateurs have eagerly thrust a glass of their home brew our way. Yes, we know they’re made with love, but…is it really wine?  But of course, we readily agreed to meet Frank and taste his wine. Any opportunity to be on the Cape, in the summer, at a stunning home near the beach was too good to pass up.

The Winemaking

On a brilliant July afternoon, we visited the Puzios and were in for the surprise of our life. From the scientifically-driven winemaking process to the stylish and functional cellar to, yes, the wine, Frank has brought extraordinary vision to his “hobby.” The cellar is hand-crafted (Frank did most of the work himself,) with a stunning below-grade granite barrel area.  The room includes all of the gadgets and equipment one needs for proper winemaking. Puzio’s “laboratory” reminded us of the (much larger) cellar at Turtle Creek Winery (Kip Kumler’s place in Lincoln, MA).  

Grapes do grow in Cape Cod’s sandy soil. But let’s just say the Cape produces better Cod than Cabernet. Frank Puzio’s grapes travel cross-country in about 5 days from Lodi or Monterrey, California (delivered fresh, not frozen, flash-frozen, or previously frozen) After the crush and the clarification, Frank stores his wine in French Oak for a full year. Upcoming vintages will age in something new… a lined poly-tank with toasted oak planks introduced through the middle of the tank.  This process uses less wood and is more sustainable than 100% oak.

Frank Puzio produces red wine blends in the tradition of some Meritages or Clarets and even some Super Tuscans. Frank poured two wines for us during the tasting:

2007 Blend

Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) , Merlot (22%), and Sangiovese (12%)

We were astounded by the quality and complexity of the wine.  This is a serious, food-friendly wine that should accompany a nice Osso Buco or even a pizza with meat toppings. We noted intense black fruit flavors, with good tannin structure for a dry finish.  The character of the wine improved over the one hour or so that we spent getting to know Frank, Diane and their wines.  The 2007 Blend was truly, surprisingly pleasant and delicious!

2008 Blend

Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) , Merlot (22%), and Syrah (12%)

Frank opened the barrel for this Blend, as it had about 2 months left before bottling.  Again, we were impressed by the quality and complexity of the wine.  The Syrah added depth and soul to this blend.  The undertones of vanilla and cherry licorice flavors were balanced and the wine was velvety on the palate.  The character of this blend also improved as we swirled the glass while chatting and nibbling cheese and crackers. 

Bravo to Frank Puzio for putting his passion and his vision to work. He may still be the Cape’s eye doctor of choice, but we envision his Cape Winery Co-Op consuming more of his time as the vintages go by.

Note: Cape Winery Co-Op follows the model of successful co-ops across the country. Participants sign an agreement stating they are not purchasing wine but rather supporting the costs of their personal share for the procurement of quality wine grapes from California, the wine yeasts, and nutrients, required chemicals and supplies, etc. Co-op participants can reserve one or more six-gallon unit (30 bottles) or split the volume with a partner. The fee is $400 per six-gallon unit.  Anyone interested in signing up for next year’s co-op contact Frank Puzio at drfpuzio@gmail.com.