Wandering Old San Juan’s hilly streets and alleyways is always a treat, especially for two winter-weary Bostonians seeking sun and sustenance. We’ve visited this fabulous city a half-dozen times, soaking in the Latin vibe and ogling the centuries-old homes and shops that line the streets. During the first “fitness walk” on our recent trip we stumbled on Casa Galena, (108 Calle Cruz) a new boutique with some of the finest tsotchkes any tasteful home-goods shopper would desire. When he hit the back of the shop, Gary let out a “Yes!” (and I swear he did a fist pump too.) He had discovered a small selection of wine from Argentina, Spain, and Portugal. Most of the offerings were unknown to us; some were vaguely familiar from past Boston Wine Expo or ViniPortugal tastings. 

Finding a well-curated wine collection in the heart of the old city was a step up for our San Juan wine experiences. Better known for its rum and local beer, the area’s liquor stores mostly boast Gallo and Yellow Tail, while restaurants still tend towards unremarkable (and improperly stored) “vino tinto” or “vino blanco” house wines.

The 2006 Mendoza Valley (Argentina) harvest produced some outstanding wines at terrific prices so we opted for a bottle of the Bodega Sottano 2006 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon. At checkout, the Casa Galena shop owner told us we picked “the best”; one of her favorites.  Assuming she had impeccable taste, we asked for a dinner recommendation so we could enjoy the Cab that evening. She wasn’t aware of any BYO restaurants but raved about the chef-owned La Cucina Di Ivo, (202 Calle de Cristo) whose $15 corkage fee was palatable.

What We Ate…What We Drank

Well, Casa Galena’s owner batted 2 for 2 that night! The restaurant was charming, secluded, and molto Italiano. Quietly empty with just one other table occupied, we had the airy outdoor courtyard to ourselves. Gary had the Chickpea Soup and Gnocchi Bolognese; Lisa ordered the House Special Salad (field greens, Granny Smith Apples, Walnuts, and Feta cheese) and the Gnocchi with fresh peas, Prosciutto, and langoustines. Chef Ivo Bignami makes all his pasta, sauces, dressings, and bread from scratch. The Gnocchi were, as Lisa put it, “light, feathery little pillows” and the bread—with garlic and chive-speckled butter—was rustic yet light.

And the wine? A Mighty Fine Accompaniment