We were feeling “Cab-y” and looking for a great red meat recipe to pair with a still-young but aging Burgess Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Vintage Selection. The Wine Lover's Cookbook (Sid Goldstein, Chronicle Books 1999,)
the bible in the VinoDuo household for appropriate food and wine pairings, didn't disappoint. Sid offers interesting veal, lamb, and venison recipes but we were hankering for a juicy steak.

The Grilled Fillets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout jumped out at us. Eggplant is a particular favorite of ours. We grow it in the summer, buy it out of season all winter long, and love it grilled or roasted on Gary’s pizza. Off to Trader Joe’s for their buttery sirloin fillets from New Zealand and down to the cellar to retrieve the Burgess.

Gary bought the Burgess Cabernet a few years ago, relying on the vineyard’s reputation for well-made, reasonably-priced wines. The Wine Lover’s Cookbook promised that the “simplicity of the juicy grilled fillets showcases the intense fruit of a good, young Cabernet or lays the foundation for appreciation of an older, more mature wine as well. The eggplant ragout is a simple accompaniment that supports the pairing by offering the slight bitterness of eggplant to offset the tannin in the wine.” 

At first taste we noted that the Burgess had a good balance of fruit (blackberries and cherries) that didn’t hit us over the head, and a hint of chocolate. The wine delivered a nice finish with some tannic structure. When paired exclusively with the sirloin, the wine was a bit over-powering, with a dry finish on the palate. But with the eggplant and tomato ragout, the wine showed its true colors with round opulent tannins that left a lasting impression of this well made Cab.
While the wine could clearly age a few more years, it did show well with this dish.


Grilled Filets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout


Marinade
5 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons dry mustard
Freshly ground black pepper


4 fillets mignons or sirloin fillets

Ragout
2 medium globe eggplants, cut horizontally in ½-inch slides
2 ½ tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt
½ cup chopped yellow onions
1 pound whole cherry tomatoes
2 teaspoons chopped roasted garlic (we used raw garlic)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tablespoon dried)
½ teaspoon fennel seed, toasted and crushed (we substituted anise)


To make the marinade, whisk all ingredients together in a small mixing bowl. Spoon over filets. Allow to marinate, covered in refrigerator, for 2 to 3 hours before cooking.

To make the ragout, preheat oven to 350º F. Lightly rub eggplant slices with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place eggplant in an ovenproof skillet or baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes. Chop into ½-inch cubes.

In a medium sauté pan or skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, until translucent. Add tomatoes, garlic, herbs, fennel seed, and eggplant and sauté for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Keep warm.

To cook fillets, prepare a hot charcoal fire (or your oven’s broiler.) When the coals are very hot, grill filets for 5 to 7 minutes per side, cooked medium-rare or to taste.

To serve, spoon ragout evenly onto plates with fillets on the side.