Puglia Primitivos, TakeTwo
We’re either gluttons for punishment or stubborn explorers, but after our less-than thrilling experience with Primitivo from the Puglia (or Apulia) region of Italy we went back for more. What was driving us? The memory of Flaio, a marvelous Primitivo we lapped up a year or so ago at Kouzina, a tiny neighborhood restaurant in Newton, MA. Gary diligently entered the name of the wine in his BlackBerry, where it was promptly forgotten. But we resurrected Flaio last week and asked our friends at Busa Liquors in Lexington to order a couple of bottles.
At the same time, Gary found two more Primitivos at a wine shop in Cambridge, one with the ridiculous name of Mommy’s Time Out, the other, Castello Monaci. Both were 2006 vintage, as was the Flaio, so we conducted a three-way tasting over two days, one homemade pizza, and some tangy shrimp kabobs.

Cut to the Chase
The winner, by a mile (and $5) was the Castello Monaci Piluna 2006. At $13.99 it was clearly superior to the others in every way: style, complexity, structure, finish…a terrific value that goes to the top of our “must buy” for casual Italian and spicy seafood or chicken dishes.
Mommy’s Time Out 2006 $8.99
What is it with the cutesy names and labels? First Layer Cake, now this. The label is adorable—a corner bedecked with a chair, skirted table, and wine bottle, presumably waiting for the harried mommy who needs her wine. (Gary takes the fifth on why he bought it…something about an employee recommendation)
The wine? Let’s just say mommy would need to be really stressed to enjoy it. It was thin, young, and a little spicy; admirable qualities in a date, but unremarkable in a wine.
Castello Monaci $13.99
From first sniff to last taste, this is a terrific wine. Like the Zinfandel grape it’s related to, this Primitivo boasts tobacco and a hint of smoke on the nose. We picked up plum and blackberry, with some caramel and licorice in the complex flavor palate.
The awkward English translation on Castello Monaci’s web site says “part of the wine matures in differently toasted French barriques,” which we assume means some of the juice is aged in fire-dried French oak, the rest in stainless steel, which brings a welcome balance of flavor and makes for a smooth, elegant wine.
Flaio Primitovo Salento 2006 $7.99
So was the memory of the Flaio better than the reality this time around? Yes…and no. After the wonderful complexity of the Castello Monaci we were initially disappointed with the Flaio. Lisa thought it lacked fullness and structure; Gary was less critical, finding it plump on the palate and full of plum and blackberry flavors.
On the second night, the Flaio redeemed itself. A spicy, peppery nose, full of terroir. The tannins had settled down, leading to a rounder, fuller flavor. Flaio must have a diligent U.S. distributor, because it shows up on wine lists at restaurants coast to coast. At $7.99 a bottle (retail) and $8.00 a glass, restaurateurs are cleaning up with this low-priced pleaser.
At the same time, Gary found two more Primitivos at a wine shop in Cambridge, one with the ridiculous name of Mommy’s Time Out, the other, Castello Monaci. Both were 2006 vintage, as was the Flaio, so we conducted a three-way tasting over two days, one homemade pizza, and some tangy shrimp kabobs.

Cut to the Chase
The winner, by a mile (and $5) was the Castello Monaci Piluna 2006. At $13.99 it was clearly superior to the others in every way: style, complexity, structure, finish…a terrific value that goes to the top of our “must buy” for casual Italian and spicy seafood or chicken dishes.
Mommy’s Time Out 2006 $8.99
What is it with the cutesy names and labels? First Layer Cake, now this. The label is adorable—a corner bedecked with a chair, skirted table, and wine bottle, presumably waiting for the harried mommy who needs her wine. (Gary takes the fifth on why he bought it…something about an employee recommendation)
The wine? Let’s just say mommy would need to be really stressed to enjoy it. It was thin, young, and a little spicy; admirable qualities in a date, but unremarkable in a wine.
Castello Monaci $13.99
From first sniff to last taste, this is a terrific wine. Like the Zinfandel grape it’s related to, this Primitivo boasts tobacco and a hint of smoke on the nose. We picked up plum and blackberry, with some caramel and licorice in the complex flavor palate.
The awkward English translation on Castello Monaci’s web site says “part of the wine matures in differently toasted French barriques,” which we assume means some of the juice is aged in fire-dried French oak, the rest in stainless steel, which brings a welcome balance of flavor and makes for a smooth, elegant wine.
Flaio Primitovo Salento 2006 $7.99
So was the memory of the Flaio better than the reality this time around? Yes…and no. After the wonderful complexity of the Castello Monaci we were initially disappointed with the Flaio. Lisa thought it lacked fullness and structure; Gary was less critical, finding it plump on the palate and full of plum and blackberry flavors.
On the second night, the Flaio redeemed itself. A spicy, peppery nose, full of terroir. The tannins had settled down, leading to a rounder, fuller flavor. Flaio must have a diligent U.S. distributor, because it shows up on wine lists at restaurants coast to coast. At $7.99 a bottle (retail) and $8.00 a glass, restaurateurs are cleaning up with this low-priced pleaser.

VinoDuo is Lisa & Gary. Engaged in Sonoma. Honeymooned in Napa. Vacationed in
Temecula (CA), Woodinville (WA), and other off the beaten path wine regions. We’ve married our love of wine with our passion for travel, visiting lesser-known wine regions throughout the United
States. We’ve got strong opinions about the pros and cons of each wine region and this is our forum for airing and sharing them.






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