The Boston Wine Expo, once a fun event where novices could learn about new and interesting regions and varietals, has become something of a cattle call. The more popular wine becomes, the more people throng to the World Trade Center for a day (or two) of tasting. By the end of the day, you can tell which folks have been spitting and which have been chugging—lots of loud, buzzed men and women loitering in the center of each aisle with their friends, moving slowly trolling around the floor looking for a bit of cheese or chocolate for the road.

And yet, if you’re lucky enough to be “of the trade” or a member of the media (as VinoDuo is fortunate to be) you can leisurely stroll the aisles of the Expo in peace for two blessed hours before the hordes come in.  At the stroke of 11 am, we began our Wine Expo tour. Only a few hundred companions joined us, far fewer than last year’s pre-show crowd.  Perhaps the Expo’s decision to charge members of the trade (instead of letting them in for free, along with their extended families) contributed to the smaller turnout.

Whatever the reason, we reveled in the quiet and went about our business. Our destination: South America. As we reviewed our 2007 “must buy” selections, we were struck by the dominance of Chile and Argentina.  So instead of racing up one aisle and down another in search of New Zealand, France, California, and New York, we decided to broaden our knowledge of Latin American wines. A few stray domestic wineries found their way into our tasting regimen, and we made note of them as well.

Following is our must-tastes from a day spent happily in the company of wine makers, sellers, and lovers.  We also found a sweet treat to recommend as well...after all, you need something to eat in between swigs, no? Amid all the sweet and savory offerings, one stood out— Wicked Natural’s Raspberry Chocolate Jam. It was Ambrosia to Lisa, whose two favorite foods are, amazingly, raspberries and chocolate.  Find it at Whole Foods or online at www.wickednatural.com.

Best in Show
•    Kaiken, Malbec (Ultra) Reserve 2005 (Mendoza)                                    $22
•    Bodegas y Viñedos Pascual Toso, Finca Pedregal 2005 (Mendoza)      $25 – $30
•    Clos de los Siete 2006 (Mendoza)                                                             $18
•    In Situ Laguna del Inca 2005 (Aconcagua)                                               $34
•    Chateau Bianca Pinot Noir 2004 (Oregon)                                                $20
•    Yorkville Cellars Richard the Lion-Heart 2003 (Mendocino County)     $33