It’s common practice among wineries large and small to produce a variety of wines under different labels. Multiple labels allow producers to experiment with different grapes and winemaking techniques or reach out to new audiences. Woodhouse Family Cellars in Woodinville, WA has five labels, each focused on one or a handful of wines. Filmmaker turned wine impresario Francis Ford Coppola also boasts five labels, including Director’s Cut and Sofia.

When wineries produce lower-priced and, typically, lesser-quality wines under a different name from their primary brand the wines are called Second Label.  Geyser Peak produces Canyon Road. Markham’s second label is Glass Mountain Quarry. The practice can boost a winery’s bottom line while introducing value-conscious consumers to new wine. 

So does a second label also mean second best? It’s different for every winery, of course, but we set out to answer the question with two Malbecs in our cellar from top Argentine producer Bodega Catena Zapata.  We compared the cream of the crop—the Catena Zapata Malbec (Mendoza) 2005—with the second label Alamos Malbec 2003.  Since they were from different years, it is not an apples-to-apples comparison but a close assessment of the two brands’ characteristics.

Alamos Malbec 2003 (Mendoza, Argentina)        $11
Alamos debuted as Catena’s second label in 1993; its grapes are sourced “from some of the Catena family's younger vineyards in the best areas of Mendoza's high altitude wine country,” according to the company’s web site.  This Malbec was sourced from four vineyards and was aged for nine months in 50% French, 50% American oak, 25% of it new.

A beautiful color, the Alamos seemed somewhat thin in the glass, with no “legs” to speak of. We noted leather and a hint of smoke and oak on the nose.  Just after opening the bottle we found the Alamos light and fruity, with cassis and plum flavors predominating. By day three, the wine had taken on a more earthy palate, with deeper fruit and a robust finish. It stood up well to Gary’s homemade pizza, which was loaded with tomato, herbs, and garlic.

For $11, the Alamos is a very good every-day wine.


Catena Malbec 2005 (Mendoza, Argentina)        $20
At almost twice the price of the Alamos, the Catena Malbec is well worth the splurge. Sourced from four vineyards and aged 18 months in 100% new French oak, this is a beautifully made wine, from its stunning deep purple color to a long silky finish. It was intensely aromatic, with leather, smoke, and cherries. As for the flavor, Gary’s notes simply say “Boom!; fruit galore with some spice and chocolate.”
On the first night of tasting we paired the Catena with Gary’s four-alarm turkey chili and it held up admirably. On day three, it was a bit too elegant for the pizza; the second label Alamos was a better match for the earthy pie.

The verdict? For $20, the Catena Malbec out-performed its second label sibling in every category. And yet, we’d save the $9 and opt for the Alamos as a nightly companion to pasta, pizza, and other earthy foods.