Foxwoods Food & Wine Festival
We can't say we weren't warned. "Food" came before "wine" in the title. The promos all hawked the "notable personalities" familiar to Food Channel devotees—Bastianich, Tsai, Burke. And the clincher—Anheuser Busch was one of the main exhibitors at the Grand Tasting. In short, wine was on the menu but clearly played second fiddle at the Foxwoods Food and Wine Festival.
Fortunately, we were able to tease out the top wine producers among the vodka, beer, and low-rent wine exhibitors. Distributors, not wine makers, presented most of the wine so this show lacked the charm and educational value of Taste of Sonoma and other such events.
The low point came when a pretty young thing in a tight black dress responded to my request for a taste of the Pinot, ''do you want Pinot Gris (rhymes with hiss)?" She had been hired by the distributor to pour and knew less than nothing about what she was pouring.
The high point of the show was a seminar hosted by Food & Wine Editor Ray Isle on "Pinot Around the World." He was smart, funny, engaging, and knowledgeable. We enjoy reading his articles in F&W and were delighted to meet him.
Of the 82 exhibitors at the Grand Tasting 36 were wine-related. But with most distributors tasting multiple brands and producers, there were several hundred wines available to taste. We avoided the big names—Kendall Jackson, Gallo, Mondavi. Partly on principle, partly out of time constraints. In between inhaling Junior's Cheesecake and Pain d' Avignon bread, Gary and Lisa each found five undiscovered (by us) gems to recommend.
Our Top 10 Wines
Only one white wine passed muster with Lisa, and none with Gary. Having tasted virtually all Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs and most California Chardonnays, we gravitated towards lesser-known white varietal producers from South Africa and Chile. Unfortunately, nothing rated a "must buy."
Whites
MerryvaleStarmont Chardonnay 2005 $23.99
Starmont is Merryvale's "value priced" line, although at $24 the Chardonnay seemed overpriced. In fact, all of Merryvale's wines were overpriced, particularly the Profile 2003 at $100. While overpriced, the Chardonnay was delicious. Crisp, not too creamy or oaky, and full of ripe fruit flavors.
Reds
BeringerKnights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $30
Gary's notes begin WOW! and go on from there. "Big Cab; concentrated; bright fruit; a touch of spice; I can't wait to buy it." True to his word, he's been roaming wine shops near our home in search of the Big Cab. No luck yet...it's not like Beringer is an undiscovered boutique winery, so why can't we find it??
Edmeades Mendocino Zinfandel 2005 $22
A winery after our own heart—all Zin all the time. It's all they make—one style from each of their five vineyards in Mendocino County, CA. The '05 they poured at the show had a "lovely balance of fruit and tannin; seems like a great choice for a restaurant wine list." A wonderful aroma of cherries, coffee, and spice was followed with a mouthful of fruit—-but no fruit bomb. It was subtle but powerful (if that makes any sense.) We're adding Edmeades to our list and wondering how to get to Mendocino on our next CA trip.
Feudi di San Gregorio, Rubrato Aglianico 2004 $19
This relatively new (1986) producer from Italy's Campania region offered up an enticing red made from the Alianico grape. Gary noted it was "thick with tannins" and reminded him of a blackberry/blueberry compote.
Gary's in good company. Just a few months ago International Wine Review said the Rubrato Alianico was "both rich and elegant. It has a dark ruby opaque color, intense aromas of red cherry and black currant fruit, sweet spicy notes of oak, a juicy fruit-filled supple palate, and good grip on a long finish."
Felton Road Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 $45
During our Pinot Around the World seminar with Food & Wine's Ray Isle we tasted six Pinot Noirs, three from the "Old World" and three from the new. Our favorite was the New Zealand entry from Felton Road. Ray noted that Central Otago is the southern-most wine growing region in the world, with "perfect Pinot conditions." Of the six we tasted, the Felton had the richest color, the most intoxicating nose, and the roundest flavor. We just loved it.
Fratta Pasini Amarone della Valpolicella 2003 $54.99
Amarone della Valpolicella, or Amarone, comes from the Venetian region of Italy. A dry, full-bodied red, Amarone is made from the Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, and Molinara grapes. Lisa found Fratta Pasini's Amarone "very gentle" and quite drinkable now but clearly worth cellaring. A beautiful, deep pomegranate, the wine was beautiful to look at and a pleasure to drink.
Gary agreed it had great potential but was less enamored with its present flavor profile.
Genesis by Hogue, Cabernet Sauvignon. 2004 $15
Genesis is Hogue's Reserve brand, with grapes harvested from throughout Eastern Washington state. At a $15 price point, the 2004 Cab is a great deal. Rich, full-bodied, with deep cherry and a hint of tobacco. The oak is subtle—enough to make a difference but not overpowering.
Kaesler"The Bogan" Shiraz 2005 $60
Sixty bucks is so far beyond what we normally pay for good wine we almost left this off the list. But both Lisa and Gary gave it a rave so we offer it here as a "pricey but worth it" selection for Barossa Valley devotees. Kaesler was established in 1893 and the Shiraz vines were planted in 1899, which is quite a pedigree in new world Australia.
We found the 2005 silky, well-balanced, and tasting of ripe cherries, plum, and spice. (Kaesler throws in cola and blueberries on their tasting notes...our palates did not pick those up!)
Kaiken Malbec Reserve 2004 $12 - $15
We're big fans of Chile's Montes wines but had no idea Montes co-owned Kalken when we tasted this outstanding Malbec. Clearly, Aurelio Montes brought his knack for winemaking with him to Argentina. In fact, he named Kaiken after a type of wild goose that can be found on both sides of the Andes, like himself.
Deep ruby red in color, the Reserve was full of berries and maybe a hint of vanilla.
Seco-Bertani Valpolicella Valpinetone Ripasso 2004 $15 - $20
The wine Rep referred to this as a "baby Amarone." Made from the same three grapes as "regular" Amarone, this wine was softer and lighter than the Fratta Pasini; well-balanced and a long finish. The winery has been in production since 1857 so they have clearly mastered the "Ripasso" technique of winemaking native to the Veneto.
Fortunately, we were able to tease out the top wine producers among the vodka, beer, and low-rent wine exhibitors. Distributors, not wine makers, presented most of the wine so this show lacked the charm and educational value of Taste of Sonoma and other such events.
The low point came when a pretty young thing in a tight black dress responded to my request for a taste of the Pinot, ''do you want Pinot Gris (rhymes with hiss)?" She had been hired by the distributor to pour and knew less than nothing about what she was pouring.
The high point of the show was a seminar hosted by Food & Wine Editor Ray Isle on "Pinot Around the World." He was smart, funny, engaging, and knowledgeable. We enjoy reading his articles in F&W and were delighted to meet him.
Of the 82 exhibitors at the Grand Tasting 36 were wine-related. But with most distributors tasting multiple brands and producers, there were several hundred wines available to taste. We avoided the big names—Kendall Jackson, Gallo, Mondavi. Partly on principle, partly out of time constraints. In between inhaling Junior's Cheesecake and Pain d' Avignon bread, Gary and Lisa each found five undiscovered (by us) gems to recommend.
Our Top 10 Wines
Only one white wine passed muster with Lisa, and none with Gary. Having tasted virtually all Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs and most California Chardonnays, we gravitated towards lesser-known white varietal producers from South Africa and Chile. Unfortunately, nothing rated a "must buy."
Whites
MerryvaleStarmont Chardonnay 2005 $23.99
Starmont is Merryvale's "value priced" line, although at $24 the Chardonnay seemed overpriced. In fact, all of Merryvale's wines were overpriced, particularly the Profile 2003 at $100. While overpriced, the Chardonnay was delicious. Crisp, not too creamy or oaky, and full of ripe fruit flavors.
Reds
BeringerKnights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $30
Gary's notes begin WOW! and go on from there. "Big Cab; concentrated; bright fruit; a touch of spice; I can't wait to buy it." True to his word, he's been roaming wine shops near our home in search of the Big Cab. No luck yet...it's not like Beringer is an undiscovered boutique winery, so why can't we find it??
Edmeades Mendocino Zinfandel 2005 $22
A winery after our own heart—all Zin all the time. It's all they make—one style from each of their five vineyards in Mendocino County, CA. The '05 they poured at the show had a "lovely balance of fruit and tannin; seems like a great choice for a restaurant wine list." A wonderful aroma of cherries, coffee, and spice was followed with a mouthful of fruit—-but no fruit bomb. It was subtle but powerful (if that makes any sense.) We're adding Edmeades to our list and wondering how to get to Mendocino on our next CA trip.
Feudi di San Gregorio, Rubrato Aglianico 2004 $19
This relatively new (1986) producer from Italy's Campania region offered up an enticing red made from the Alianico grape. Gary noted it was "thick with tannins" and reminded him of a blackberry/blueberry compote.
Gary's in good company. Just a few months ago International Wine Review said the Rubrato Alianico was "both rich and elegant. It has a dark ruby opaque color, intense aromas of red cherry and black currant fruit, sweet spicy notes of oak, a juicy fruit-filled supple palate, and good grip on a long finish."
Felton Road Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 $45
During our Pinot Around the World seminar with Food & Wine's Ray Isle we tasted six Pinot Noirs, three from the "Old World" and three from the new. Our favorite was the New Zealand entry from Felton Road. Ray noted that Central Otago is the southern-most wine growing region in the world, with "perfect Pinot conditions." Of the six we tasted, the Felton had the richest color, the most intoxicating nose, and the roundest flavor. We just loved it.
Fratta Pasini Amarone della Valpolicella 2003 $54.99
Amarone della Valpolicella, or Amarone, comes from the Venetian region of Italy. A dry, full-bodied red, Amarone is made from the Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, and Molinara grapes. Lisa found Fratta Pasini's Amarone "very gentle" and quite drinkable now but clearly worth cellaring. A beautiful, deep pomegranate, the wine was beautiful to look at and a pleasure to drink.
Gary agreed it had great potential but was less enamored with its present flavor profile.
Genesis by Hogue, Cabernet Sauvignon. 2004 $15
Genesis is Hogue's Reserve brand, with grapes harvested from throughout Eastern Washington state. At a $15 price point, the 2004 Cab is a great deal. Rich, full-bodied, with deep cherry and a hint of tobacco. The oak is subtle—enough to make a difference but not overpowering.
Kaesler"The Bogan" Shiraz 2005 $60
Sixty bucks is so far beyond what we normally pay for good wine we almost left this off the list. But both Lisa and Gary gave it a rave so we offer it here as a "pricey but worth it" selection for Barossa Valley devotees. Kaesler was established in 1893 and the Shiraz vines were planted in 1899, which is quite a pedigree in new world Australia.
We found the 2005 silky, well-balanced, and tasting of ripe cherries, plum, and spice. (Kaesler throws in cola and blueberries on their tasting notes...our palates did not pick those up!)
Kaiken Malbec Reserve 2004 $12 - $15
We're big fans of Chile's Montes wines but had no idea Montes co-owned Kalken when we tasted this outstanding Malbec. Clearly, Aurelio Montes brought his knack for winemaking with him to Argentina. In fact, he named Kaiken after a type of wild goose that can be found on both sides of the Andes, like himself.
Deep ruby red in color, the Reserve was full of berries and maybe a hint of vanilla.
Seco-Bertani Valpolicella Valpinetone Ripasso 2004 $15 - $20
The wine Rep referred to this as a "baby Amarone." Made from the same three grapes as "regular" Amarone, this wine was softer and lighter than the Fratta Pasini; well-balanced and a long finish. The winery has been in production since 1857 so they have clearly mastered the "Ripasso" technique of winemaking native to the Veneto.

VinoDuo is Lisa & Gary. Engaged in Sonoma. Honeymooned in Napa. Vacationed in
Temecula (CA), Woodinville (WA), and other off the beaten path wine regions. We’ve married our love of wine with our passion for travel, visiting lesser-known wine regions throughout the United
States. We’ve got strong opinions about the pros and cons of each wine region and this is our forum for airing and sharing them.






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