A Taste of Sonoma

When we booked our trip to Sonoma wine country for the week of July 14, we had no idea our visit would coincide with the Taste of Sonoma, the centerpiece of the Sonoma County Showcase Weekend of Wine & Food. For nearly three decades, Sonoma County wineries have come together to share their best stuff with thousands of wine-loving visitors. This year, for the first time, the Taste of Sonoma was extended to two days, overlapping our visit. When we discovered our good timing we immediately signed up for a media pass and joined the beautiful people of Northern California in a daylong bacchanal of food and drink.

Describing this idyllic day is challenging. How many synonyms can one find for "spectacular?" The setting—stunning. Billowing white tents scattered among the vineyards and towering redwoods of MacMurray Ranch (now owned by Gallo.) The weather—fantastic. Hot, sunny, light breeze.  The wine—well, you get it.  Spectacular.  We spent more than four hours wandering from exhibitor to exhibitor with big, stupid grins on our faces. It sure beat the setting of the Boston Wine Expo, held under the glaring lights of the cavernous World Trade Center on a frigid February weekend.

Taste of Sonoma featured 100+ wineries from the 13 county appellations and more than 60 local chefs offering everything from grilled lamb to fruit tarts. Lisa and Gary split up to cover more ground.

Following is our "best in show" summary of the food and drink.

FOOD

Chevre Cheesecake w/Tahitian Bean & Vanilla Hazelnut Crust w/ Roasted Peaches
Patisserie Angelica, Sebastopol

Proper etiquette calls for taking one sample of any given food item on display then moving on to let others have their taste. Unfortunately, when it came to the Chevre Cheesecake from Patisserie Angelica, Lisa acted more like Dan Aykroyd stuffing smoked trout into his pockets at a banquet in Trading Places than the well-behaved journalist she typically is.

After four oh-so-small pieces of this ethereal dessert, Lisa did move on, but the memory lingers.  It was light as air, with the vanilla perfectly complementing the roasted peaches, and the chevre keeping the sweetness to a minimum. The Patisserie has an online site, letthemmailcake.com, which at present offers six cakes but NOT the Chevre Cheesecake.  Perhaps a write-in campaign will get owners Condra Easley and Deborah Morris to change their minds.


DRINK
The timing of the Taste of Sonoma couldn't have been better for our four-day wine tour.  Virtually every winery from the region was showcasing its top wines, giving us a chance to refine our "must visit" list and cross a few off that didn't live up to expectations.

Balletto Vineyards, 2005 Pinot Noir Estate, Russian River Valley
We were unfamiliar with this family-owned small production winery but its Pinot put it at the top of our planned Santa Rosa excursion.

Hartford Family Winery, 2005 Zinfandel, Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley

Hartford taunted us by pouring the 2005 Zin knowing full well it was sold out (according to its web site.) This big, fruit-forward wine was not a fruit bomb, but full and elegant, with a hint of chocolate on the finish. Gary rated it "outstanding—a must buy." Oh well, maybe the 2006 will continue the legacy.

Papapietro, 2005 Pinot Noir, Peters Vineyard, Sonoma Coast

Gary loved this "deep, well concentrated" Pinot with "fruit lasting well to the end."  We didn't make it to Papapietro's tasting room but can recommend this wine with confidence.

Stonestreet, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley
Despite our fondness for small, unknown wineries, we must admit some well-known, high-priced wines deserve their fame and acclaim. Stonestreet is one of those producers. The '04 Cab was enticing; nicely balanced and full of—but not overwhelmed by—blackberry and cherry flavors.  Gary didn't pick up the cedar noted by the winemaker, but found a smooth coffee/mocha mix on the finish.

Trentadue, 2003 La Storia Cuvee 32, Alexander Valley Estate

A silky smooth blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, it's got some sweetness, lush black fruit, and hints of spice. Gary found it "well structured" and "reeking—in a good way—of terroir."

Trentadue, 2004 La Storia Zinfandel, Alexander Valley Estate

"Wow," screams Gary's notes for this big, bombastic Zin. "Big fruit, nicely structured, will definitely cellar but why wait?"  With two hits on our list, Trentadue deserved a visit to the winery, if only for another sip or two of the Zin.  Next time, for sure.

Wilson Winery, 2005 Sawyer and 2005 Tori Zinfandel
Wilson was another family winery that jumped from "who are they?" to the "how do we get there" after tasting these two fantastic Zins at the show. Sawyer and Tori are two very different vineyards (named for the winemaker's kids) and we fell for each.  See our full review.



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