The Alsatian Challenge

The summer's over but good deck wine still calls to us, at least until the leaves fall on our deck and we get depressed that winter looms. We've had good luck with Alsatian wines, mostly from Trimbach and Hugel, so we bought three different whites to enjoy with a delicious corn and tomato salad, chicken, and eggplant dinner. (the tomatoes and eggplant were from our garden, which made it an especially pleasant meal.) The only thing these white wines had in common was the year they were bottled, the design of the bottle, and the color of the label. One was a pinot gris, another a pinot blanc, and the third a "mongrel" with no specified grapes.

The Contenders
  • Willm Pinot Gris 2004                                                         $11.99
  • Lucien Albrecht Pinot Blanc Cuvee Balthazar 2004     $11.99
  • HVH Gentil  Hugel 2004                                                     $10.49
Willm Pinot Gris
The bottle claims a "round, flavorful dry white wine with a broad buttery character." We beg to differ. Lisa found it pale, sweet, and flat without a hint of butter. Gary noted its mineral nose and residual sugar. The concensus: if it were the only wine on the deck we'd drink it but otherwise, au revoir.

Lucien Albrcht — The Winner!
Gary and Lisa are often at odds in their tastes, especially with white wine. But the decision was unanimous: this pinot blanc was the class act of the trio. We both noted its inviting color; Lisa picked up a vanilla aroma, Gary thought it more fruity. We both relished the full, supple, and crisp flavor.

Hugel
A close second to the Albrecht. This "no-name" blend of grapes is, according to Hugel, "gently dry, round, and pleasingly aromatic." We both thought it had a woodsy aroma with a citrus taste. Gary found it a bit thin and mineral flavored.

The verdict: Tall thin green bottles and yellow labels do not a great wine make. Be selective in your Alsatian selections. We strongly recommend the Lucien Albrcht, with a thumbs up for the Hugel.

 

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