The Alsatian Challenge
The summer's over but good deck wine still calls to
us, at least until the leaves fall on our deck and we get depressed
that winter looms. We've had good luck with Alsatian wines, mostly from
Trimbach and Hugel, so we bought three different whites to enjoy with a
delicious corn and tomato salad, chicken, and eggplant dinner. (the
tomatoes and eggplant were from our garden, which made it an especially
pleasant meal.) The only thing these white wines had in common was the
year they were bottled, the design of the bottle, and the color of the
label. One was a pinot gris, another a pinot blanc, and the third a
"mongrel" with no specified grapes.
The Contenders
The bottle claims a "round, flavorful dry white wine with a broad buttery character." We beg to differ. Lisa found it pale, sweet, and flat without a hint of butter. Gary noted its mineral nose and residual sugar. The concensus: if it were the only wine on the deck we'd drink it but otherwise, au revoir.
Lucien Albrcht — The Winner!
Gary and Lisa are often at odds in their tastes, especially with white wine. But the decision was unanimous: this pinot blanc was the class act of the trio. We both noted its inviting color; Lisa picked up a vanilla aroma, Gary thought it more fruity. We both relished the full, supple, and crisp flavor.
Hugel
A close second to the Albrecht. This "no-name" blend of grapes is, according to Hugel, "gently dry, round, and pleasingly aromatic." We both thought it had a woodsy aroma with a citrus taste. Gary found it a bit thin and mineral flavored.
The verdict: Tall thin green bottles and yellow labels do not a great wine make. Be selective in your Alsatian selections. We strongly recommend the Lucien Albrcht, with a thumbs up for the Hugel.
The Contenders
- Willm Pinot Gris 2004 $11.99
- Lucien Albrecht Pinot Blanc Cuvee Balthazar 2004 $11.99
- HVH Gentil Hugel 2004 $10.49
The bottle claims a "round, flavorful dry white wine with a broad buttery character." We beg to differ. Lisa found it pale, sweet, and flat without a hint of butter. Gary noted its mineral nose and residual sugar. The concensus: if it were the only wine on the deck we'd drink it but otherwise, au revoir.
Lucien Albrcht — The Winner!
Gary and Lisa are often at odds in their tastes, especially with white wine. But the decision was unanimous: this pinot blanc was the class act of the trio. We both noted its inviting color; Lisa picked up a vanilla aroma, Gary thought it more fruity. We both relished the full, supple, and crisp flavor.
Hugel
A close second to the Albrecht. This "no-name" blend of grapes is, according to Hugel, "gently dry, round, and pleasingly aromatic." We both thought it had a woodsy aroma with a citrus taste. Gary found it a bit thin and mineral flavored.
The verdict: Tall thin green bottles and yellow labels do not a great wine make. Be selective in your Alsatian selections. We strongly recommend the Lucien Albrcht, with a thumbs up for the Hugel.

VinoDuo is Lisa & Gary. Engaged in Sonoma. Honeymooned in Napa. Vacationed in
Temecula (CA), Woodinville (WA), and other off the beaten path wine regions. We’ve married our love of wine with our passion for travel, visiting lesser-known wine regions throughout the United
States. We’ve got strong opinions about the pros and cons of each wine region and this is our forum for airing and sharing them.



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