VinoDuo: Travel and Tasting Notes From a Couple of Wine Lovers
http://blog.vinoduo.com
Buy Wine at Wine.Com
About Us
VinoDuo is Lisa & Gary. Engaged in Sonoma. Honeymooned in Napa. Vacationed in
Temecula (CA), Woodinville (WA), and other off the beaten path wine regions. We’ve married our love of wine with our passion for travel, visiting lesser-known wine regions throughout the United
States. We’ve got strong opinions about the pros and cons of each wine region and this is our forum for airing and sharing them.
Bookmark us!
Wine Library TV
VinoDuo.com: A Couple of Wine Lovers
Skalli Wine Tasting at the Harvest
One of the perks of being a wine blogger are the invites to wine tastings closed to the riff-raff, er, general public. It’s even better when the tasting accompanies a meal at a swank restaurant. So when we were asked to meet Skalli Family Wine Americas winemaker Laurent Sauvage at a lunch and tasting at the Harvest in Cambridge, one of our favorite restaurants, we readily accepted. Monsieur Sauvage was touring the states promoting the import company’s portfolio of wine brands from the South of France, which were recently introduced to the U.S. market.
So there’s the dirty little VinoDuo secret…we’re schnorers (if you don’t know that classic Yiddish word, look it up. It will come in handy to describe many people you’ll meet in your life.) Free food, free wine…we’re there. But we can’t be bought! Following is our objective assessment, warts and all, of the Skalli Family Wine Americas offerings.
Must Buys
• Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2005 (Sud de France) $17
• Clos Poggiale AOC Corse 2004 $30
• Chateauneuf du Pape, Maison Bouachon 2005 $40
Whites
Fortant Chardonnay 2006 (Languedoc) $8
A good value for Skalli’s entry-level brand, the Chard was light straw in color, immature on the palate; a bit green. Lisa found it crisp, light, and a little minerally; closer to a Sauvignon Blanc.
Clos Poggiale 2005 (Corsica) $24
We discovered a new grape with this wine—Vermentino, which is found all around the Mediterranean region. Lisa was fooled by the "fabulous nose,” expecting a full-bodied charmer. But there was no payoff on the palate. Dull and uninteresting. Gary noted a perfumed, floral nose. The palate was "food friendly” with honeydew and mineral but not worth the price.
BUY Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2005 (Sud de France) $17
The namesake brand is clearly superior to the other labels. Lisa pronounced it "marvelous!” and Gary concurred. Light pineapple scent on the nose, with vanilla and a hint of oak on the palate. Nicely balanced and elegant, it went particularly well with the Harvest’s chilled lobster. At $17, this goes on our “must buy” list.
Reds
Fortant Merlot 2006 $8
We picked up blackberry on the nose, deep black fruits on the palate, a full, silky mid-palate and dry finish. The wine had us until the finish—our American bias made us shy away from a puckery mouth at the end.
Fortant Cabernet Sauvignon $8
Black current on the nose with typical Cab notes. As for the taste, just ok; maybe a great burger wine.
Skalli Pinot Noir 2006 $17
Spicy blueberry notes on the note. Good black fruit flavors, with a hint of anise and spice. Gary noted a touch of vanilla too. We found it a bit green—not a buy.
Skalli Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $17
Powerful nose packed with fruit. We picked up flavors of blueberry and pepper. Thin, with a dry finish. Gary thought it had more promise than delivery.
BUY Clos Poggiale AOC Corse 2004 $30
A terrific blend of Syrah (45%) and Sangiovese (or Nielluccio.) Gary wrote a big YES at the top of his tasting sheet. Made in the style of a Super Tuscan, it offered blackberry on the nose with good spice and luscious fruit on the palate. Silky, with a tremendous finish. We can't wait to buy it for our cellar, or just drink it up now!
Cotes du Rhone Maison Bouachon 2066 $17
A GSM (Grenache 60%; Syrah 30%; Mourvedre 10%) with a great mix of fruit and spice. Big fruit, some mineral, and some bite on the tannins. Lisa said it was jammy and marvelous; Gary passed.
BUY Chateauneuf du Pape, Maison Bouachon 2005 $40
Gary found this wine a real winner. Plenty of concentrated fruit. Great with a juicy steak and a good value for a Chateauneuf, particularly given the sad state of the dollar against the Euro.
So there’s the dirty little VinoDuo secret…we’re schnorers (if you don’t know that classic Yiddish word, look it up. It will come in handy to describe many people you’ll meet in your life.) Free food, free wine…we’re there. But we can’t be bought! Following is our objective assessment, warts and all, of the Skalli Family Wine Americas offerings.
Must Buys
• Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2005 (Sud de France) $17
• Clos Poggiale AOC Corse 2004 $30
• Chateauneuf du Pape, Maison Bouachon 2005 $40
Whites
Fortant Chardonnay 2006 (Languedoc) $8
A good value for Skalli’s entry-level brand, the Chard was light straw in color, immature on the palate; a bit green. Lisa found it crisp, light, and a little minerally; closer to a Sauvignon Blanc.
Clos Poggiale 2005 (Corsica) $24
We discovered a new grape with this wine—Vermentino, which is found all around the Mediterranean region. Lisa was fooled by the "fabulous nose,” expecting a full-bodied charmer. But there was no payoff on the palate. Dull and uninteresting. Gary noted a perfumed, floral nose. The palate was "food friendly” with honeydew and mineral but not worth the price.
BUY Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2005 (Sud de France) $17
The namesake brand is clearly superior to the other labels. Lisa pronounced it "marvelous!” and Gary concurred. Light pineapple scent on the nose, with vanilla and a hint of oak on the palate. Nicely balanced and elegant, it went particularly well with the Harvest’s chilled lobster. At $17, this goes on our “must buy” list.
Reds
Fortant Merlot 2006 $8
We picked up blackberry on the nose, deep black fruits on the palate, a full, silky mid-palate and dry finish. The wine had us until the finish—our American bias made us shy away from a puckery mouth at the end.
Fortant Cabernet Sauvignon $8
Black current on the nose with typical Cab notes. As for the taste, just ok; maybe a great burger wine.
Skalli Pinot Noir 2006 $17
Spicy blueberry notes on the note. Good black fruit flavors, with a hint of anise and spice. Gary noted a touch of vanilla too. We found it a bit green—not a buy.
Skalli Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $17
Powerful nose packed with fruit. We picked up flavors of blueberry and pepper. Thin, with a dry finish. Gary thought it had more promise than delivery.
BUY Clos Poggiale AOC Corse 2004 $30
A terrific blend of Syrah (45%) and Sangiovese (or Nielluccio.) Gary wrote a big YES at the top of his tasting sheet. Made in the style of a Super Tuscan, it offered blackberry on the nose with good spice and luscious fruit on the palate. Silky, with a tremendous finish. We can't wait to buy it for our cellar, or just drink it up now!
Cotes du Rhone Maison Bouachon 2066 $17
A GSM (Grenache 60%; Syrah 30%; Mourvedre 10%) with a great mix of fruit and spice. Big fruit, some mineral, and some bite on the tannins. Lisa said it was jammy and marvelous; Gary passed.
BUY Chateauneuf du Pape, Maison Bouachon 2005 $40
Gary found this wine a real winner. Plenty of concentrated fruit. Great with a juicy steak and a good value for a Chateauneuf, particularly given the sad state of the dollar against the Euro.
Dos Cabezas Redux
A year ago we celebrated our 10th anniversary in Scottsdale, AZ and became acquainted with the fruits of Arizona's Sonoita wine region, located in the southeast corner of the state. We were particularly smitten with the 2005 Dos Cabezas El Norte, a rich blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah & Petite Sirah. At our first taste, in the snazzy Kazimierz Wine Bar, Gary's tasting notes start with "great nose,
vanilla" and end with "find this wine!" And we did find it, thanks to the winery's intrepid owner, who tapped his brother-in-law to drive up to Scottsdale and deposit a case at our hotel.
Last week we celebrated our 11th anniversary and for old times sake cracked open another bottle of the El Norte. We're relieved to report that a year later the thrill is not gone. In fact, the 2005 has aged beautifully and is in the prime of life. The color was deeper; the nose headier; the flavor richer; the fruit sweeter. Gary noted a warm caramel flavor—something that eluded us the first time. We giddily poured a full glass and toasted winemaker Todd Bostock for this killer red and his unheard of customer service in bringing these Easterners a case of his fantastic Western wine.
We can't recommend the 2005 El Norte enough and suggest you order it from the Dos Cabezas web site, since its distribution outside the winery is quite limited.
Last week we celebrated our 11th anniversary and for old times sake cracked open another bottle of the El Norte. We're relieved to report that a year later the thrill is not gone. In fact, the 2005 has aged beautifully and is in the prime of life. The color was deeper; the nose headier; the flavor richer; the fruit sweeter. Gary noted a warm caramel flavor—something that eluded us the first time. We giddily poured a full glass and toasted winemaker Todd Bostock for this killer red and his unheard of customer service in bringing these Easterners a case of his fantastic Western wine.
We can't recommend the 2005 El Norte enough and suggest you order it from the Dos Cabezas web site, since its distribution outside the winery is quite limited.
Grilled Fillets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout and the Burgess Cab
We were feeling “Cab-y” and looking for a great red meat recipe to pair with a still-young but aging Burgess Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Vintage Selection. The Wine Lover's Cookbook (Sid Goldstein, Chronicle Books 1999,)
the bible in the VinoDuo household for appropriate food and wine pairings, didn't disappoint. Sid offers interesting veal, lamb, and venison recipes but we were hankering for a juicy steak.
The Grilled Fillets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout jumped out at us. Eggplant is a particular favorite of ours. We grow it in the summer, buy it out of season all winter long, and love it grilled or roasted on Gary’s pizza. Off to Trader Joe’s for their buttery sirloin fillets from New Zealand and down to the cellar to retrieve the Burgess.
Gary bought the Burgess Cabernet a few years ago, relying on the vineyard’s reputation for well-made, reasonably-priced wines. The Wine Lover’s Cookbook promised that the “simplicity of the juicy grilled fillets showcases the intense fruit of a good, young Cabernet or lays the foundation for appreciation of an older, more mature wine as well. The eggplant ragout is a simple accompaniment that supports the pairing by offering the slight bitterness of eggplant to offset the tannin in the wine.”
At first taste we noted that the Burgess had a good balance of fruit (blackberries and cherries) that didn’t hit us over the head, and a hint of chocolate. The wine delivered a nice finish with some tannic structure. When paired exclusively with the sirloin, the wine was a bit over-powering, with a dry finish on the palate. But with the eggplant and tomato ragout, the wine showed its true colors with round opulent tannins that left a lasting impression of this well made Cab.
While the wine could clearly age a few more years, it did show well with this dish.
Grilled Filets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout
Marinade
5 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons dry mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
4 fillets mignons or sirloin fillets
Ragout
2 medium globe eggplants, cut horizontally in ½-inch slides
2 ½ tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt
½ cup chopped yellow onions
1 pound whole cherry tomatoes
2 teaspoons chopped roasted garlic (we used raw garlic)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tablespoon dried)
½ teaspoon fennel seed, toasted and crushed (we substituted anise)
To make the marinade, whisk all ingredients together in a small mixing bowl. Spoon over filets. Allow to marinate, covered in refrigerator, for 2 to 3 hours before cooking.
To make the ragout, preheat oven to 350º F. Lightly rub eggplant slices with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place eggplant in an ovenproof skillet or baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes. Chop into ½-inch cubes.
In a medium sauté pan or skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, until translucent. Add tomatoes, garlic, herbs, fennel seed, and eggplant and sauté for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Keep warm.
To cook fillets, prepare a hot charcoal fire (or your oven’s broiler.) When the coals are very hot, grill filets for 5 to 7 minutes per side, cooked medium-rare or to taste.
To serve, spoon ragout evenly onto plates with fillets on the side.
the bible in the VinoDuo household for appropriate food and wine pairings, didn't disappoint. Sid offers interesting veal, lamb, and venison recipes but we were hankering for a juicy steak.
The Grilled Fillets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout jumped out at us. Eggplant is a particular favorite of ours. We grow it in the summer, buy it out of season all winter long, and love it grilled or roasted on Gary’s pizza. Off to Trader Joe’s for their buttery sirloin fillets from New Zealand and down to the cellar to retrieve the Burgess.
Gary bought the Burgess Cabernet a few years ago, relying on the vineyard’s reputation for well-made, reasonably-priced wines. The Wine Lover’s Cookbook promised that the “simplicity of the juicy grilled fillets showcases the intense fruit of a good, young Cabernet or lays the foundation for appreciation of an older, more mature wine as well. The eggplant ragout is a simple accompaniment that supports the pairing by offering the slight bitterness of eggplant to offset the tannin in the wine.”
At first taste we noted that the Burgess had a good balance of fruit (blackberries and cherries) that didn’t hit us over the head, and a hint of chocolate. The wine delivered a nice finish with some tannic structure. When paired exclusively with the sirloin, the wine was a bit over-powering, with a dry finish on the palate. But with the eggplant and tomato ragout, the wine showed its true colors with round opulent tannins that left a lasting impression of this well made Cab.
While the wine could clearly age a few more years, it did show well with this dish.
Grilled Filets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout
Serves 4
Marinade
5 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons dry mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
4 fillets mignons or sirloin fillets
Ragout
2 medium globe eggplants, cut horizontally in ½-inch slides
2 ½ tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt
½ cup chopped yellow onions
1 pound whole cherry tomatoes
2 teaspoons chopped roasted garlic (we used raw garlic)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tablespoon dried)
½ teaspoon fennel seed, toasted and crushed (we substituted anise)
To make the marinade, whisk all ingredients together in a small mixing bowl. Spoon over filets. Allow to marinate, covered in refrigerator, for 2 to 3 hours before cooking.
To make the ragout, preheat oven to 350º F. Lightly rub eggplant slices with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place eggplant in an ovenproof skillet or baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes. Chop into ½-inch cubes.
In a medium sauté pan or skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, until translucent. Add tomatoes, garlic, herbs, fennel seed, and eggplant and sauté for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Keep warm.
To cook fillets, prepare a hot charcoal fire (or your oven’s broiler.) When the coals are very hot, grill filets for 5 to 7 minutes per side, cooked medium-rare or to taste.
To serve, spoon ragout evenly onto plates with fillets on the side.
Spirited Gourmet Spring Grand Tasting
The Spirited Gourmet in Winchester held its semi-annual Grand Tasting on May 3 and we eagerly lined up to check out the 30+ offerings from seven local distributors. Far from presenting usual suspects and easy crowd-pleasers, the distributors challenged the crowd with lesser-known varietals and producers. We drove in empty-handed and drove home with 17 bottles…a nice take for a brief afternoon.
Following are our favorite tastes.
Whites
D’Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne McLaren Vale, 2006 $17.99
A light, crisp summer pleaser from the Australian region better known for its Shiraz. We loved the apricot/peach flavors. We didn’t buy any but recall it fondly.
Guegen Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet, 2006 $29.99 Bought 1 bottle
This unoaked Chardonnay from Chablis struck Lisa as closer to a Sauvignon Blanc. Nicely balanced, crisp, with light fruit and slight minerality.
Ca ’Rugate Soave San Michele 2006 $13.99 Bought 2 bottles
A delightful Soave Classico, crisp and dry with a pale gold color. 100% from the Italian Garganega grape, a varietal unknown to us.
Nieto Chardonnay Mendoza, 2007 $10.99 Bought 2 bottles
We’ve fallen for Malbec from Argentina’s Mendoza region and now we’re hooked on this crisp but slightly creamy Chard.
Macrostie Chardonnay Carneros, 2006 $25.99 Bought 1 bottle
Classic California premium Chardonnay. Full-flavored, buttery, oaky, wonderful (so says Gary…Lisa demurs.)
Clos des Rochers Auxerrois Luxembourg, 2006 $16.99 Bought 2 bottles
We can’t pronounce the name of this grape (Auxerrois), and never knew Luxembourg produced wine. But that’s the joy of these wine tastings. Some know-it-all posted in Wikipedia that “Recent DNA fingerprinting suggests that [Auxerrois Blanc] is a cross between Gouais blanc and Pinot, the same ancestry as Chardonnay.” We found it a great crisp and clean summer white.
Lolonis Eugenia Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, 2002 $31.99 Bought 1 bottle
This sweetheart from Mendocino County, CA was everything a dessert wine should be—deep flavored, sweet, and smooth.
Reds
Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004 $32.99 Bought 1 bottle
Gary raved about this wine’s deep berry fruit-forward flavors and complex structure. This is a well-crafted wine, not a factory-made Chianti.
Righetti Ripasso Valpolicella, 2005 $14.99 Bought 2 bottles
An elegant, light-bodied wine with raisin, current, fig, and berry flavors. Gary’s salivating over this wine as we write it.
Secret de Campane Vin de Pays d’Orange, 2006 $9.99 Bought 2 bottles
If you’re looking for a summer cooler but white’s just not your color, try this light, slightly peppery Grenache blend from the south of France. Serve it cooled and have a great BBQ!
Bell Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, 2003 $44.99 Bought 2 bottles
A Bordeaux blend from California that knocked Gary out and made him exceed our usual spending limit. The 2003 vintage blends Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Petite Verdot Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. It was round, and full, and plush…and tasted really expensive; a superior, super-premium Cab. Take that, Caymus and Opus One!
Following are our favorite tastes.
Whites
D’Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne McLaren Vale, 2006 $17.99
A light, crisp summer pleaser from the Australian region better known for its Shiraz. We loved the apricot/peach flavors. We didn’t buy any but recall it fondly.
Guegen Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet, 2006 $29.99 Bought 1 bottle
This unoaked Chardonnay from Chablis struck Lisa as closer to a Sauvignon Blanc. Nicely balanced, crisp, with light fruit and slight minerality.
Ca ’Rugate Soave San Michele 2006 $13.99 Bought 2 bottles
A delightful Soave Classico, crisp and dry with a pale gold color. 100% from the Italian Garganega grape, a varietal unknown to us.
Nieto Chardonnay Mendoza, 2007 $10.99 Bought 2 bottles
We’ve fallen for Malbec from Argentina’s Mendoza region and now we’re hooked on this crisp but slightly creamy Chard.
Macrostie Chardonnay Carneros, 2006 $25.99 Bought 1 bottle
Classic California premium Chardonnay. Full-flavored, buttery, oaky, wonderful (so says Gary…Lisa demurs.)
Clos des Rochers Auxerrois Luxembourg, 2006 $16.99 Bought 2 bottles
We can’t pronounce the name of this grape (Auxerrois), and never knew Luxembourg produced wine. But that’s the joy of these wine tastings. Some know-it-all posted in Wikipedia that “Recent DNA fingerprinting suggests that [Auxerrois Blanc] is a cross between Gouais blanc and Pinot, the same ancestry as Chardonnay.” We found it a great crisp and clean summer white.
Lolonis Eugenia Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, 2002 $31.99 Bought 1 bottle
This sweetheart from Mendocino County, CA was everything a dessert wine should be—deep flavored, sweet, and smooth.
Reds
Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004 $32.99 Bought 1 bottle
Gary raved about this wine’s deep berry fruit-forward flavors and complex structure. This is a well-crafted wine, not a factory-made Chianti.
Righetti Ripasso Valpolicella, 2005 $14.99 Bought 2 bottles
An elegant, light-bodied wine with raisin, current, fig, and berry flavors. Gary’s salivating over this wine as we write it.
Secret de Campane Vin de Pays d’Orange, 2006 $9.99 Bought 2 bottles
If you’re looking for a summer cooler but white’s just not your color, try this light, slightly peppery Grenache blend from the south of France. Serve it cooled and have a great BBQ!
Bell Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, 2003 $44.99 Bought 2 bottles
A Bordeaux blend from California that knocked Gary out and made him exceed our usual spending limit. The 2003 vintage blends Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Petite Verdot Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. It was round, and full, and plush…and tasted really expensive; a superior, super-premium Cab. Take that, Caymus and Opus One!
Puglia Primitivos, TakeTwo
We’re either gluttons for punishment or stubborn explorers, but after our less-than thrilling experience with Primitivo from the Puglia (or Apulia) region of Italy we went back for more. What was driving us? The memory of Flaio, a marvelous Primitivo we lapped up a year or so ago at Kouzina, a tiny neighborhood restaurant in Newton, MA. Gary diligently entered the name of the wine in his BlackBerry, where it was promptly forgotten. But we resurrected Flaio last week and asked our friends at Busa Liquors in Lexington to order a couple of bottles.
At the same time, Gary found two more Primitivos at a wine shop in Cambridge, one with the ridiculous name of Mommy’s Time Out, the other, Castello Monaci. Both were 2006 vintage, as was the Flaio, so we conducted a three-way tasting over two days, one homemade pizza, and some tangy shrimp kabobs.
Cut to the Chase
The winner, by a mile (and $5) was the Castello Monaci Piluna 2006. At $13.99 it was clearly superior to the others in every way: style, complexity, structure, finish…a terrific value that goes to the top of our “must buy” for casual Italian and spicy seafood or chicken dishes.
Mommy’s Time Out 2006 $8.99
What is it with the cutesy names and labels? First Layer Cake, now this. The label is adorable—a corner bedecked with a chair, skirted table, and wine bottle, presumably waiting for the harried mommy who needs her wine. (Gary takes the fifth on why he bought it…something about an employee recommendation)
The wine? Let’s just say mommy would need to be really stressed to enjoy it. It was thin, young, and a little spicy; admirable qualities in a date, but unremarkable in a wine.
Castello Monaci $13.99
From first sniff to last taste, this is a terrific wine. Like the Zinfandel grape it’s related to, this Primitivo boasts tobacco and a hint of smoke on the nose. We picked up plum and blackberry, with some caramel and licorice in the complex flavor palate.
The awkward English translation on Castello Monaci’s web site says “part of the wine matures in differently toasted French barriques,” which we assume means some of the juice is aged in fire-dried French oak, the rest in stainless steel, which brings a welcome balance of flavor and makes for a smooth, elegant wine.
Flaio Primitovo Salento 2006 $7.99
So was the memory of the Flaio better than the reality this time around? Yes…and no. After the wonderful complexity of the Castello Monaci we were initially disappointed with the Flaio. Lisa thought it lacked fullness and structure; Gary was less critical, finding it plump on the palate and full of plum and blackberry flavors.
On the second night, the Flaio redeemed itself. A spicy, peppery nose, full of terroir. The tannins had settled down, leading to a rounder, fuller flavor. Flaio must have a diligent U.S. distributor, because it shows up on wine lists at restaurants coast to coast. At $7.99 a bottle (retail) and $8.00 a glass, restaurateurs are cleaning up with this low-priced pleaser.
At the same time, Gary found two more Primitivos at a wine shop in Cambridge, one with the ridiculous name of Mommy’s Time Out, the other, Castello Monaci. Both were 2006 vintage, as was the Flaio, so we conducted a three-way tasting over two days, one homemade pizza, and some tangy shrimp kabobs.
Cut to the Chase
The winner, by a mile (and $5) was the Castello Monaci Piluna 2006. At $13.99 it was clearly superior to the others in every way: style, complexity, structure, finish…a terrific value that goes to the top of our “must buy” for casual Italian and spicy seafood or chicken dishes.
Mommy’s Time Out 2006 $8.99
What is it with the cutesy names and labels? First Layer Cake, now this. The label is adorable—a corner bedecked with a chair, skirted table, and wine bottle, presumably waiting for the harried mommy who needs her wine. (Gary takes the fifth on why he bought it…something about an employee recommendation)
The wine? Let’s just say mommy would need to be really stressed to enjoy it. It was thin, young, and a little spicy; admirable qualities in a date, but unremarkable in a wine.
Castello Monaci $13.99
From first sniff to last taste, this is a terrific wine. Like the Zinfandel grape it’s related to, this Primitivo boasts tobacco and a hint of smoke on the nose. We picked up plum and blackberry, with some caramel and licorice in the complex flavor palate.
The awkward English translation on Castello Monaci’s web site says “part of the wine matures in differently toasted French barriques,” which we assume means some of the juice is aged in fire-dried French oak, the rest in stainless steel, which brings a welcome balance of flavor and makes for a smooth, elegant wine.
Flaio Primitovo Salento 2006 $7.99
So was the memory of the Flaio better than the reality this time around? Yes…and no. After the wonderful complexity of the Castello Monaci we were initially disappointed with the Flaio. Lisa thought it lacked fullness and structure; Gary was less critical, finding it plump on the palate and full of plum and blackberry flavors.
On the second night, the Flaio redeemed itself. A spicy, peppery nose, full of terroir. The tannins had settled down, leading to a rounder, fuller flavor. Flaio must have a diligent U.S. distributor, because it shows up on wine lists at restaurants coast to coast. At $7.99 a bottle (retail) and $8.00 a glass, restaurateurs are cleaning up with this low-priced pleaser.
Puglia Primitivos Times Two
A Vino Duo reader raved to us about a Primitivo he and his wife swooned over from the Puglia region of Italy so we set out to find it at our local wine shop. Primitivo is a southern Italian grape variety that is the 'kissing cousin' to Zinfandel. Gary and, especially, Lisa, are Zin fans, but had yet to find a Primitivo that matched Zin’s spice and charm.
Tracking down the Layer Cake Primitivo (2006) proved quite the challenge. ''It's like a cult wine," one shop owner told Gary. "We can't get it, and when we do, it flies out the door." The next shop didn’t have the Layer Cake Primitivo either, although the owner talked up the winery’s Shiraz. She also recommended an alternative Puglia Primitivo, A Mano, which we bought in hopes of going mano-a-mano ☺ with it and the Layer Cake
We finally tracked down the elusive but inexpensive ($15.99) Layer Cake at Blanchard's liquors in Jamaica Plain. Cases of the Primitivo lined the shelves but we limited our purchase to two bottles, figuring we could always head back for more if the wine lived up to its promise.
Armed with the 2005 A Mano and the 2006 Layer Cake (not apples-to-apples but the closest we could get) we set up a blind tasting. As often happens, Gary and Lisa had wildly different reactions to the wines on the first night, but came close to a consensus on night two.
Layer Cake Primitivo 2006 ($15.99)
For Lisa, the Layer Cake was all look and no show. A striking ruby red, it sat pretty in the glass. But where was the nose? Where was the flavor? Was this really worth schlepping and searching all over the Boston 'burbs??
Gary begged to differ. He picked up spice and pepper on the nose, good fruit on the palate, and mocha on the finish He pronounced the Layer Cake "very nice, '' which is not exactly a rave but miles from Lisa's cavalier "there is nothing to recommend here."
On the second night, the tables turned a bit. Lisa still found nothing on the nose, but pronounced the flavor "Much Improved." Oddly, the Layer Cake lacked any hints of a Zinfandel’s spice or smokiness. Gary's night two experience found him noting an ''off-soil'' taste. But he still picked up satisfying mocha flavor with an "explosion of anise."
In the end, we agreed the Layer Cake Primitivo did not live up to its advance billing and would not be joining our list of “must buys.”
A Mano Primitivo 2005 ($11.99)
In the glass the A Mano lacked the Layer Cake's deep ruby beauty But what it lacked in looks, it made up for in personality, at least to. Lisa. "This actually tastes like something," she noted. "Nice body, good fruit, with a hint of Zin-like spice. But no finish."
Gary was having none of it. "Tastes like dishwater. Puckery dishwater."
On night two, the profile changed yet again. Lisa thought the flavor improved but the wine lost some of its smoothness. It was a bit rougher, more rustic on second tasting.
For Gary, yesterday's “dishwater" comment was a memory. The A Mano redeemed itself, with "rich fruit, some spice, and leather on the nose.''
The final verdict, A Mano is the better wine for a casual pizza, pasta, ribs night. Its bottle lacks the cute cake illustration on the front, but it's easy to find and a pleasant, drinkable wine.
Tracking down the Layer Cake Primitivo (2006) proved quite the challenge. ''It's like a cult wine," one shop owner told Gary. "We can't get it, and when we do, it flies out the door." The next shop didn’t have the Layer Cake Primitivo either, although the owner talked up the winery’s Shiraz. She also recommended an alternative Puglia Primitivo, A Mano, which we bought in hopes of going mano-a-mano ☺ with it and the Layer Cake
We finally tracked down the elusive but inexpensive ($15.99) Layer Cake at Blanchard's liquors in Jamaica Plain. Cases of the Primitivo lined the shelves but we limited our purchase to two bottles, figuring we could always head back for more if the wine lived up to its promise.
Armed with the 2005 A Mano and the 2006 Layer Cake (not apples-to-apples but the closest we could get) we set up a blind tasting. As often happens, Gary and Lisa had wildly different reactions to the wines on the first night, but came close to a consensus on night two.
Layer Cake Primitivo 2006 ($15.99)
For Lisa, the Layer Cake was all look and no show. A striking ruby red, it sat pretty in the glass. But where was the nose? Where was the flavor? Was this really worth schlepping and searching all over the Boston 'burbs??
Gary begged to differ. He picked up spice and pepper on the nose, good fruit on the palate, and mocha on the finish He pronounced the Layer Cake "very nice, '' which is not exactly a rave but miles from Lisa's cavalier "there is nothing to recommend here."
On the second night, the tables turned a bit. Lisa still found nothing on the nose, but pronounced the flavor "Much Improved." Oddly, the Layer Cake lacked any hints of a Zinfandel’s spice or smokiness. Gary's night two experience found him noting an ''off-soil'' taste. But he still picked up satisfying mocha flavor with an "explosion of anise."
In the end, we agreed the Layer Cake Primitivo did not live up to its advance billing and would not be joining our list of “must buys.”
A Mano Primitivo 2005 ($11.99)
In the glass the A Mano lacked the Layer Cake's deep ruby beauty But what it lacked in looks, it made up for in personality, at least to. Lisa. "This actually tastes like something," she noted. "Nice body, good fruit, with a hint of Zin-like spice. But no finish."
Gary was having none of it. "Tastes like dishwater. Puckery dishwater."
On night two, the profile changed yet again. Lisa thought the flavor improved but the wine lost some of its smoothness. It was a bit rougher, more rustic on second tasting.
For Gary, yesterday's “dishwater" comment was a memory. The A Mano redeemed itself, with "rich fruit, some spice, and leather on the nose.''
The final verdict, A Mano is the better wine for a casual pizza, pasta, ribs night. Its bottle lacks the cute cake illustration on the front, but it's easy to find and a pleasant, drinkable wine.
Caparone 2002 Cab an Earthy Delight
When we visited Paso Robles a few years ago we drove right by Caparone Winery on San Marcos Road. Why didn't we stop? Maybe 100 wineries in 4 days would have been just a bit too much. But somehow a bottle of Caparone's 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Maria Valley wound up in our wine cellar. Gary thinks it was a gift dating back to his 50th birthday. Whatever its provenance, the bottle popped out of the cellar and into our kitchen last week to complement a steak tips dinner from Villa House of Pizza. We started low-brow then upgraded to a home-cooked tenderloin dinner the next night. It gave us a great opportunity to compare the Caparone with two different steak pairings.
Caparone is a boutique, family-run business with father Dave and son Marc at the helm. They produce full-bodied red wines, with a focus on the classic Italian varietals Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Aglianico. The Cab comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, located in Sisquoc, in the Santa Maria Valley.
Night One — Caparone Cabernet and Steak Tips
We had returned from a four-day business trip to California that morning and were still a bit jet lagged. Cooking was out. So we called up our local pizzeria and got the always-reliable steak tips. Then we cracked open the Caparone. It's a beauty to look at, deep ruby red with a circle of caramel at the edges. Wonderful aroma, with hints of cassis, leather, and tobacco.
The taste was a bit surprising to Lisa, who is not a Cab devotee. It was a bit earthy, smoky, spicy—more like a Shiraz than a California Cab. The smokiness worked nicely with the steak tips, which had a slight bbq flavor. Gary was taken by the full fruit, round tannins, and smooth finish. We agreed the Caparone was a fine Cabernet for the money ($13) but expected it to improve after 24 hours of aeration and pairing with a better grade of beef.
Night Two — Caparone Cabernet and Tenderloin
After checking out the Caparone Winery web site, Lisa discovered the origin of the smoky flavor. Caparone's Cab is a "classic cool-climate cabernet - dark, intense, with a slight smokiness that is unique to the Bien Nacido Vineyard." Gary fired up the broiler and prepared a simple but delicious steak, seasoned only with Kosher salt and white pepper from St. Martin. On day two, the Cabernet's flavors had deepened. Paired with the tenderloin, the Cab's earthiness subsided and it tasted a bit more refined...more "Cab" like to Lisa's taste. Gary noted a dryer finish.
Whoever gave us the Caparone 2002 Cab — thanks! We liked it and, for $13, would certainly recommend it as an every-day wine, whatever caliber meat you pair with it.
Caparone is a boutique, family-run business with father Dave and son Marc at the helm. They produce full-bodied red wines, with a focus on the classic Italian varietals Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Aglianico. The Cab comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, located in Sisquoc, in the Santa Maria Valley.
Night One — Caparone Cabernet and Steak Tips
We had returned from a four-day business trip to California that morning and were still a bit jet lagged. Cooking was out. So we called up our local pizzeria and got the always-reliable steak tips. Then we cracked open the Caparone. It's a beauty to look at, deep ruby red with a circle of caramel at the edges. Wonderful aroma, with hints of cassis, leather, and tobacco.
The taste was a bit surprising to Lisa, who is not a Cab devotee. It was a bit earthy, smoky, spicy—more like a Shiraz than a California Cab. The smokiness worked nicely with the steak tips, which had a slight bbq flavor. Gary was taken by the full fruit, round tannins, and smooth finish. We agreed the Caparone was a fine Cabernet for the money ($13) but expected it to improve after 24 hours of aeration and pairing with a better grade of beef.
Night Two — Caparone Cabernet and Tenderloin
After checking out the Caparone Winery web site, Lisa discovered the origin of the smoky flavor. Caparone's Cab is a "classic cool-climate cabernet - dark, intense, with a slight smokiness that is unique to the Bien Nacido Vineyard." Gary fired up the broiler and prepared a simple but delicious steak, seasoned only with Kosher salt and white pepper from St. Martin. On day two, the Cabernet's flavors had deepened. Paired with the tenderloin, the Cab's earthiness subsided and it tasted a bit more refined...more "Cab" like to Lisa's taste. Gary noted a dryer finish.
Whoever gave us the Caparone 2002 Cab — thanks! We liked it and, for $13, would certainly recommend it as an every-day wine, whatever caliber meat you pair with it.
An Ovation for Ovene...Again
We revisited an old friend tonight and the meet-up was wonderful. On our trip to Paso Robles in 2006 we discovered Ovene, a boutique winery whose tasting room is housed in Wines on Pine in the center of Paso. We tasted three 2004 vintages: the Chardonnay; "The Puzzle" Pinot Noir; and the Rose of Syrah. We bought two Pinots, nestled them in the cellar, and, frankly, forgot about them. Until today.
Gary had whipped up a Szechuan turkey tenders and green bean stir-fry (better than it sounds) and wanted a Pinot to accompany this spicy mix. Lisa went to the basement, found a Pinot, which turned out to be the '04 Ovene. Would it hold up?
Absolutely! This purple beauty's solid tanin structure, smooth palate, and balanced fruit flavors met the food head-on and was a great match. How? The wine offset the hot & spicy chili peppers just enough to let the flavors of the garlic, ginger and meat sail on through. The finish on the wine is not eternal, but just enough to let you know that you're consuming a quality, elegant Pinot. When we first tasted this wine, we knew that it would be a winner. The folks at Ovene really know what they were doing and we're glad to have found this bottle in our cellar.
Gary had whipped up a Szechuan turkey tenders and green bean stir-fry (better than it sounds) and wanted a Pinot to accompany this spicy mix. Lisa went to the basement, found a Pinot, which turned out to be the '04 Ovene. Would it hold up?
Absolutely! This purple beauty's solid tanin structure, smooth palate, and balanced fruit flavors met the food head-on and was a great match. How? The wine offset the hot & spicy chili peppers just enough to let the flavors of the garlic, ginger and meat sail on through. The finish on the wine is not eternal, but just enough to let you know that you're consuming a quality, elegant Pinot. When we first tasted this wine, we knew that it would be a winner. The folks at Ovene really know what they were doing and we're glad to have found this bottle in our cellar.
The Boston Wine Expo 2008
The Boston Wine Expo, once a fun event where novices could learn about new and interesting regions and varietals, has become something of a cattle call. The more popular wine becomes, the more people throng to the World Trade Center for a day (or two) of tasting. By the end of the day, you can tell which folks have been spitting and which have been chugging—lots of loud, buzzed men and women loitering in the center of each aisle with their friends, moving slowly trolling around the floor looking for a bit of cheese or chocolate for the road.
And yet, if you’re lucky enough to be “of the trade” or a member of the media (as VinoDuo is fortunate to be) you can leisurely stroll the aisles of the Expo in peace for two blessed hours before the hordes come in. At the stroke of 11 am, we began our Wine Expo tour. Only a few hundred companions joined us, far fewer than last year’s pre-show crowd. Perhaps the Expo’s decision to charge members of the trade (instead of letting them in for free, along with their extended families) contributed to the smaller turnout.
Whatever the reason, we reveled in the quiet and went about our business. Our destination: South America. As we reviewed our 2007 “must buy” selections, we were struck by the dominance of Chile and Argentina. So instead of racing up one aisle and down another in search of New Zealand, France, California, and New York, we decided to broaden our knowledge of Latin American wines. A few stray domestic wineries found their way into our tasting regimen, and we made note of them as well.
Following is our must-tastes from a day spent happily in the company of wine makers, sellers, and lovers. We also found a sweet treat to recommend as well...after all, you need something to eat in between swigs, no? Amid all the sweet and savory offerings, one stood out— Wicked Natural’s Raspberry Chocolate Jam. It was Ambrosia to Lisa, whose two favorite foods are, amazingly, raspberries and chocolate. Find it at Whole Foods or online at www.wickednatural.com.
Best in Show
• Kaiken, Malbec (Ultra) Reserve 2005 (Mendoza) $22
• Bodegas y Viñedos Pascual Toso, Finca Pedregal 2005 (Mendoza) $25 – $30
• Clos de los Siete 2006 (Mendoza) $18
• In Situ Laguna del Inca 2005 (Aconcagua) $34
• Chateau Bianca Pinot Noir 2004 (Oregon) $20
• Yorkville Cellars Richard the Lion-Heart 2003 (Mendocino County) $33
And yet, if you’re lucky enough to be “of the trade” or a member of the media (as VinoDuo is fortunate to be) you can leisurely stroll the aisles of the Expo in peace for two blessed hours before the hordes come in. At the stroke of 11 am, we began our Wine Expo tour. Only a few hundred companions joined us, far fewer than last year’s pre-show crowd. Perhaps the Expo’s decision to charge members of the trade (instead of letting them in for free, along with their extended families) contributed to the smaller turnout.
Whatever the reason, we reveled in the quiet and went about our business. Our destination: South America. As we reviewed our 2007 “must buy” selections, we were struck by the dominance of Chile and Argentina. So instead of racing up one aisle and down another in search of New Zealand, France, California, and New York, we decided to broaden our knowledge of Latin American wines. A few stray domestic wineries found their way into our tasting regimen, and we made note of them as well.
Following is our must-tastes from a day spent happily in the company of wine makers, sellers, and lovers. We also found a sweet treat to recommend as well...after all, you need something to eat in between swigs, no? Amid all the sweet and savory offerings, one stood out— Wicked Natural’s Raspberry Chocolate Jam. It was Ambrosia to Lisa, whose two favorite foods are, amazingly, raspberries and chocolate. Find it at Whole Foods or online at www.wickednatural.com.
Best in Show
• Kaiken, Malbec (Ultra) Reserve 2005 (Mendoza) $22
• Bodegas y Viñedos Pascual Toso, Finca Pedregal 2005 (Mendoza) $25 – $30
• Clos de los Siete 2006 (Mendoza) $18
• In Situ Laguna del Inca 2005 (Aconcagua) $34
• Chateau Bianca Pinot Noir 2004 (Oregon) $20
• Yorkville Cellars Richard the Lion-Heart 2003 (Mendocino County) $33
Vino Si, Tequila No!
“Have a margarita on me!” If I had a couple of Pesos for every time someone said that to us before our trip to Playa del Carmen, I’d have enough to buy one of those frosty drinks. But since we’re wine drinkers, we set our sites on catching up with the town’s best wine bars not tequilerias. We’ve been coming to Playa for nearly a decade and with each visit we find many more restaurants and bars with interesting wine offerings.
Thinking back to our first trip to Playa always brings a smile. At an Italian restaurant we asked, perhaps naively, to see the wine list. The waiter patiently informed us he had vino blanco and vino tinto—which did we want? Catching on, we asked for the tinto. We’re still not sure what red wine we drank that day, but it arrived well chilled!
How times have changed. You can find decent wines by the glass at most tourist restaurants in Playa del Carmen and exceptional wine at several top spots. (Of course, we always drink Mexican beer with the fantastic local grouper, shrimp tacos, and fish soup.) You can even buy excellent Mexican wine from Baja California at the Mega supermarket. Over four days in this beautiful, vibrant city we enjoyed wine from Argentina, Italy, and Mexico. Here’s a sampler.
Cut to the Chase – What to Drink
• Santa Julia Fuzion Tempranillo-Malbec 2007 (Mendoza) $15
• Trivento Shiraz-Malbec 2006 (Mendoza) $15
• Monte Xanic Cabernet-Merlot 2004 (Baja California) $23
• Alessandro Speri, Prodigo, Malbec 2004 (Mendoza) $23
Mandarina Café
On our first night we ducked in to the wine bar at the Mandarina Café on Fifth Avenue for some prime people watching. Quinta Avenida is the hub of Playa del Carmen, a wide pedestrian promenade jam-packed with restaurants, shops, tequilerias, cafés, and hawkers selling snorkeling, hair braiding, and trips to Tulum. While Mandarina’s food is indifferent (except for the crisp bread sticks and pâté the waiter brought us gratis) its wine bar offers comfy couches and a front row view of the street action.
Finca el Portillo Malbec/Tempranillo 2006 (Bodegas Salentein, Argentina)
We are most familiar with Malbec from the Mendoza region. The grapes for this silky blend come from the Upper Valley of the Uco, 70 miles south of Mendoza at the foot of the Andes. Gary noted blueberries and boysenberry on the nose, followed up by flavors of smoky cedar and caramelized cherries on the palate, and a cocoa finish.
Gary found this a pleasing wine to sip before dinner, perhaps on a par with the Alamos Malbecbut lacking the complexity of the Catena(both of which we reviewed in an earlier post.)
Finca el Portillo Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (Bodegas Salentein, Argentina))
Lisa selected a light white from the save vintner to drink while checking out the Playa scene. Unfortunately, this blend lacked the strengths of either varietal; in fact, it lacked much of anything—thin and almost flavorless.
Restaurante Giallo Limone
When we fell in love with Playa a decade ago, “downtown” for tourists covered 8-10 blocks of Quinta Avenida. Stray a few blocks off 5th and you found locals happily living their lives with minimal tourist interaction. Today, tourism has gobbled up wide swaths of Playa del Carmen—for better or worse. Nowhere is that more evident than the northern extension of 5th at least one mile…and still going. Settled largely by European expats, this hopping new section of Quinta Avenida is fondly called “The North End,” just as Boston’s Italian section is known.
On our last evening this visit we strolled into the North End to Giallo Limone for a glass of vino before dinner. With a light rain starting to come down we grabbed a high-top table for two just inside the café. We chatted up the owner, Massimo, who generously brought us a complimentary order of bruschetta to pair with our wine.
Dragani Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005
One of Gary’s favorite varietals, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a classic pizza/pasta wine. The Dragani held true to form – deep ruby color, earthy nose, plenty of cherries, and a dry, smooth finish.
Marco Maci Chiaro Di Luna Salento Bianco
This Chardonnay from the Salento area of Apulia left Lisa cold. Perhaps Marco Maci, which is better known for its reds, produces a Chard because it has to, not because its heart is in it.
Di Vino
At first blush Di Vino is everything we try to avoid when in Playa del Carmen…directly on 5th in the high-rent district, decidedly non-Mexican vibe, and mostly European clientèle with not a local in sight (except serving the oh so beautiful people.) But it sucked us in with its hip ambiance and 27-page wine list. And then there was Alessandro (Aless to his friends.) Di Vino’s charming and knowledgeable Sommelier, Aless moved to Playa from Italy a few months back to handle wine buying for the owner’s several local properties.
Aless selected two wines for us and settled in for a long chat about Italian vs. French wine (guess which he finds superior,) Mexico vs. Italy, and the joys of discovering new varietals and wine regions.
Alessandro Speri, Prodigo, Malbec 2004 (Mendoza)
Speri is a fifth generation Milanese winemaker who moved to Argentina in the early 1990’s to join the burgeoning Mendoza expat community. Not yet “Malbec’d out,” Gary jumped at Aless’s recommendation to try the Speri. He noted a deep berry nose, with some oak and an elegant balance of fruit and acidity. Giving it a VinoDuo rave of “exceptional,” Gary found the Malbec an “excellent food wine for northern Italian fare.”
Costa di Giulia Michele Satta 2004 (Tuscany)
Tuscany is better known for its reds, but our new best friend Aless swore Lisa would swoon for this white blend (65% Vermentino, 35% Sauvignon Blanc.). Vermentino was new to us; it’s a traditional Mediterranean varietal typically found in Sardinia, Corsica, and Northern Italy. Vermentino shares many characteristics with Sauvignon Blanc: pale straw color, crisp acid, and a pronounced minerality (sans grass, though.) The Costa di Giulia blend did not live up to Aless’ billing – Lisa found it a bit harsh for her taste.
For those of you keeping score, that’s three White duds for Lisa. Will she ever give up and go over to the Red side for good?
El 10 Comida Argentina
After three nights of Mexican fare, Gary was hankering for a pizza. There’s plenty to choose from in Playa, from Domino’s to the gourmet variety. We chose an oddly hybrid restaurant from Argentina to get our pizza fix; a place that touts both Argentine beef and flatbread pizza. El 10 Comida Argentina is located in the North End, not far from Giallo Limone. An NHL ice hockey game was playing at the far TV and techno-pop droned from the speakers. If you’re looking for atmosphere, El 10 is a 5; the food and drink definitely get top billing here.
The pizza was a revelation (this coming from Gary, whose hand-made pizza is the talk of the family.) Formed into a long (20”) thin oblong and served on a slab of charred wood from the charcoal-fired grill, the pie had a crispy thin crust, was perfectly seasoned, and topped with mozzarella, eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms, tomatoes, olives, and onions.
To complement the pizza we selected two Malbec blends, both served a bit too cold.
Santa Julia Fuzion Tempranillo-Malbec 2007 (Mendoza)
Inky black and smooth as silk, this blend is 70% Tempranillo, 30% Malbec. Gary and Lisa swapped sips back and forth with the Shiraz-Malbec and enjoyed both with equal gusto.
Trivento Shiraz-Malbec 2006 (Mendoza)
The Trivento, an equal blend of Syrah and Malbec, had more complexity than the Santa Julia. Loads of blackberry and raspberry flavor, with hints of tobacco and leather. It was earthier than the Tempranillo-Malbec, with a bold finish.
From the Wine Shop at Mega
Boston has Stop and Shop. The West Coast has Safeway. For food shopping in Mexico, it’s the Mega. We’ve spent many a happy afternoon shopping for naranjas, queso, and vino at the Mega in San Jose del Cabo and Playa. This year we walked to the Mega from Mosquito Blue in search of Mexican wine. In particular we were on the hunt for two wines from Monte Xanic, which we had tasted during our trip to Scottsdale last spring.
Monte Xanic Chenin Colombard 2006 Valle de Guadalupe
We sipped this light, refreshing white by the Mosquito Blue pool on Lisa’s 50th birthday. Feet dangling in the cool water we toasted the special day and made our dinner plans. Another tough afternoon in Playa.
Oh, and the wine…it’s 95% Chenin Blanc, 5% Columbard. Citrus floral nose. Grapefruit and honeydew melo notes, with a clean finish. Great deck wine when there’s no pool available.
Monte Xanic Cabernet Sauvignon y Merlot
One of the great things about meeting Alessandro at Di Vino was his willingness to try the Mexican wine we brought to dinner the next night. He even waived the corkage fee—a real mentsch, as they say in Italy. We’re not sure he really liked it, but he was gracious.
The Cab-Merlot blend (with a bit of Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec thrown in) is a smooth, rich wine with intense flavors of fruit and a hint of chocolate. It was the perfect accompaniment to Lisa’s New Zealand T-bone of lamb with wild berries sauce, lentils vegetables and polenta and Gary’s Beef Filet in gorgonzola cheese cream sauce, shallot conf it, and black truffled mashed potatoes.
Thinking back to our first trip to Playa always brings a smile. At an Italian restaurant we asked, perhaps naively, to see the wine list. The waiter patiently informed us he had vino blanco and vino tinto—which did we want? Catching on, we asked for the tinto. We’re still not sure what red wine we drank that day, but it arrived well chilled!
How times have changed. You can find decent wines by the glass at most tourist restaurants in Playa del Carmen and exceptional wine at several top spots. (Of course, we always drink Mexican beer with the fantastic local grouper, shrimp tacos, and fish soup.) You can even buy excellent Mexican wine from Baja California at the Mega supermarket. Over four days in this beautiful, vibrant city we enjoyed wine from Argentina, Italy, and Mexico. Here’s a sampler.
Cut to the Chase – What to Drink
• Santa Julia Fuzion Tempranillo-Malbec 2007 (Mendoza) $15
• Trivento Shiraz-Malbec 2006 (Mendoza) $15
• Monte Xanic Cabernet-Merlot 2004 (Baja California) $23
• Alessandro Speri, Prodigo, Malbec 2004 (Mendoza) $23
Mandarina Café
On our first night we ducked in to the wine bar at the Mandarina Café on Fifth Avenue for some prime people watching. Quinta Avenida is the hub of Playa del Carmen, a wide pedestrian promenade jam-packed with restaurants, shops, tequilerias, cafés, and hawkers selling snorkeling, hair braiding, and trips to Tulum. While Mandarina’s food is indifferent (except for the crisp bread sticks and pâté the waiter brought us gratis) its wine bar offers comfy couches and a front row view of the street action.
Finca el Portillo Malbec/Tempranillo 2006 (Bodegas Salentein, Argentina)
We are most familiar with Malbec from the Mendoza region. The grapes for this silky blend come from the Upper Valley of the Uco, 70 miles south of Mendoza at the foot of the Andes. Gary noted blueberries and boysenberry on the nose, followed up by flavors of smoky cedar and caramelized cherries on the palate, and a cocoa finish.
Gary found this a pleasing wine to sip before dinner, perhaps on a par with the Alamos Malbecbut lacking the complexity of the Catena(both of which we reviewed in an earlier post.)
Finca el Portillo Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (Bodegas Salentein, Argentina))
Lisa selected a light white from the save vintner to drink while checking out the Playa scene. Unfortunately, this blend lacked the strengths of either varietal; in fact, it lacked much of anything—thin and almost flavorless.
Restaurante Giallo Limone
When we fell in love with Playa a decade ago, “downtown” for tourists covered 8-10 blocks of Quinta Avenida. Stray a few blocks off 5th and you found locals happily living their lives with minimal tourist interaction. Today, tourism has gobbled up wide swaths of Playa del Carmen—for better or worse. Nowhere is that more evident than the northern extension of 5th at least one mile…and still going. Settled largely by European expats, this hopping new section of Quinta Avenida is fondly called “The North End,” just as Boston’s Italian section is known.
On our last evening this visit we strolled into the North End to Giallo Limone for a glass of vino before dinner. With a light rain starting to come down we grabbed a high-top table for two just inside the café. We chatted up the owner, Massimo, who generously brought us a complimentary order of bruschetta to pair with our wine.
Dragani Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005
One of Gary’s favorite varietals, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a classic pizza/pasta wine. The Dragani held true to form – deep ruby color, earthy nose, plenty of cherries, and a dry, smooth finish.
Marco Maci Chiaro Di Luna Salento Bianco
This Chardonnay from the Salento area of Apulia left Lisa cold. Perhaps Marco Maci, which is better known for its reds, produces a Chard because it has to, not because its heart is in it.
Di Vino
At first blush Di Vino is everything we try to avoid when in Playa del Carmen…directly on 5th in the high-rent district, decidedly non-Mexican vibe, and mostly European clientèle with not a local in sight (except serving the oh so beautiful people.) But it sucked us in with its hip ambiance and 27-page wine list. And then there was Alessandro (Aless to his friends.) Di Vino’s charming and knowledgeable Sommelier, Aless moved to Playa from Italy a few months back to handle wine buying for the owner’s several local properties.
Aless selected two wines for us and settled in for a long chat about Italian vs. French wine (guess which he finds superior,) Mexico vs. Italy, and the joys of discovering new varietals and wine regions.
Alessandro Speri, Prodigo, Malbec 2004 (Mendoza)
Speri is a fifth generation Milanese winemaker who moved to Argentina in the early 1990’s to join the burgeoning Mendoza expat community. Not yet “Malbec’d out,” Gary jumped at Aless’s recommendation to try the Speri. He noted a deep berry nose, with some oak and an elegant balance of fruit and acidity. Giving it a VinoDuo rave of “exceptional,” Gary found the Malbec an “excellent food wine for northern Italian fare.”
Costa di Giulia Michele Satta 2004 (Tuscany)
Tuscany is better known for its reds, but our new best friend Aless swore Lisa would swoon for this white blend (65% Vermentino, 35% Sauvignon Blanc.). Vermentino was new to us; it’s a traditional Mediterranean varietal typically found in Sardinia, Corsica, and Northern Italy. Vermentino shares many characteristics with Sauvignon Blanc: pale straw color, crisp acid, and a pronounced minerality (sans grass, though.) The Costa di Giulia blend did not live up to Aless’ billing – Lisa found it a bit harsh for her taste.
For those of you keeping score, that’s three White duds for Lisa. Will she ever give up and go over to the Red side for good?
El 10 Comida Argentina
After three nights of Mexican fare, Gary was hankering for a pizza. There’s plenty to choose from in Playa, from Domino’s to the gourmet variety. We chose an oddly hybrid restaurant from Argentina to get our pizza fix; a place that touts both Argentine beef and flatbread pizza. El 10 Comida Argentina is located in the North End, not far from Giallo Limone. An NHL ice hockey game was playing at the far TV and techno-pop droned from the speakers. If you’re looking for atmosphere, El 10 is a 5; the food and drink definitely get top billing here.
The pizza was a revelation (this coming from Gary, whose hand-made pizza is the talk of the family.) Formed into a long (20”) thin oblong and served on a slab of charred wood from the charcoal-fired grill, the pie had a crispy thin crust, was perfectly seasoned, and topped with mozzarella, eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms, tomatoes, olives, and onions.
To complement the pizza we selected two Malbec blends, both served a bit too cold.
Santa Julia Fuzion Tempranillo-Malbec 2007 (Mendoza)
Inky black and smooth as silk, this blend is 70% Tempranillo, 30% Malbec. Gary and Lisa swapped sips back and forth with the Shiraz-Malbec and enjoyed both with equal gusto.
Trivento Shiraz-Malbec 2006 (Mendoza)
The Trivento, an equal blend of Syrah and Malbec, had more complexity than the Santa Julia. Loads of blackberry and raspberry flavor, with hints of tobacco and leather. It was earthier than the Tempranillo-Malbec, with a bold finish.
From the Wine Shop at Mega
Boston has Stop and Shop. The West Coast has Safeway. For food shopping in Mexico, it’s the Mega. We’ve spent many a happy afternoon shopping for naranjas, queso, and vino at the Mega in San Jose del Cabo and Playa. This year we walked to the Mega from Mosquito Blue in search of Mexican wine. In particular we were on the hunt for two wines from Monte Xanic, which we had tasted during our trip to Scottsdale last spring.
Monte Xanic Chenin Colombard 2006 Valle de Guadalupe
We sipped this light, refreshing white by the Mosquito Blue pool on Lisa’s 50th birthday. Feet dangling in the cool water we toasted the special day and made our dinner plans. Another tough afternoon in Playa.
Oh, and the wine…it’s 95% Chenin Blanc, 5% Columbard. Citrus floral nose. Grapefruit and honeydew melo notes, with a clean finish. Great deck wine when there’s no pool available.
Monte Xanic Cabernet Sauvignon y Merlot
One of the great things about meeting Alessandro at Di Vino was his willingness to try the Mexican wine we brought to dinner the next night. He even waived the corkage fee—a real mentsch, as they say in Italy. We’re not sure he really liked it, but he was gracious.
The Cab-Merlot blend (with a bit of Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec thrown in) is a smooth, rich wine with intense flavors of fruit and a hint of chocolate. It was the perfect accompaniment to Lisa’s New Zealand T-bone of lamb with wild berries sauce, lentils vegetables and polenta and Gary’s Beef Filet in gorgonzola cheese cream sauce, shallot conf it, and black truffled mashed potatoes.
Does Second Label Mean Second Best?
When wineries produce lower-priced and, typically, lesser-quality wines under a different name from their primary brand the wines are called Second Label. Geyser Peak produces Canyon Road. Markham’s second label is Glass Mountain Quarry. The practice can boost a winery’s bottom line while introducing value-conscious consumers to new wine.
So does a second label also mean second best? It’s different for every winery, of course, but we set out to answer the question with two Malbecs in our cellar from top Argentine producer Bodega Catena Zapata. We compared the cream of the crop—the Catena Zapata Malbec (Mendoza) 2005—with the second label Alamos Malbec 2003. Since they were from different years, it is not an apples-to-apples comparison but a close assessment of the two brands’ characteristics.
Alamos Malbec 2003 (Mendoza, Argentina) $11
Alamos debuted as Catena’s second label in 1993; its grapes are sourced “from some of the Catena family's younger vineyards in the best areas of Mendoza's high altitude wine country,” according to the company’s web site. This Malbec was sourced from four vineyards and was aged for nine months in 50% French, 50% American oak, 25% of it new.
A beautiful color, the Alamos seemed somewhat thin in the glass, with no “legs” to speak of. We noted leather and a hint of smoke and oak on the nose. Just after opening the bottle we found the Alamos light and fruity, with cassis and plum flavors predominating. By day three, the wine had taken on a more earthy palate, with deeper fruit and a robust finish. It stood up well to Gary’s homemade pizza, which was loaded with tomato, herbs, and garlic.
For $11, the Alamos is a very good every-day wine.
Catena Malbec 2005 (Mendoza, Argentina) $20
At almost twice the price of the Alamos, the Catena Malbec is well worth the splurge. Sourced from four vineyards and aged 18 months in 100% new French oak, this is a beautifully made wine, from its stunning deep purple color to a long silky finish. It was intensely aromatic, with leather, smoke, and cherries. As for the flavor, Gary’s notes simply say “Boom!; fruit galore with some spice and chocolate.”
On the first night of tasting we paired the Catena with Gary’s four-alarm turkey chili and it held up admirably. On day three, it was a bit too elegant for the pizza; the second label Alamos was a better match for the earthy pie.
The verdict? For $20, the Catena Malbec out-performed its second label sibling in every category. And yet, we’d save the $9 and opt for the Alamos as a nightly companion to pasta, pizza, and other earthy foods.
Two Pinots in a Pod?
Pinot Noir got its first 15 minutes of fame in the movie Sideways, when Paul Giamatti’s character Miles waxed rhapsodic about the fussy little grape with the big, complex flavor. Miles was drinking his way through Santa Barbara County, nestled in California’s central coast. In recent years, California has ceded much of its Pinot cred to Oregon’s Willamette Valley, which the local boosters have dubbed “the Promised Land for Pinot Noir in America.” And we agree. Oregon Pinot is fabulous. But what of other regions?
The latest upstart is New Zealand. Best known for its Sauvignon Blanc, NZ is making headway with luscious Pinot Noir, particularly from the Central Otago region. And then there’s Washingtonville, New York. What, you haven’t discovered this emerging Pinot region? Well, not exactly a region. Maybe one winery—Brotherhood, the country’s oldest winery, located in the Hudson River Valley. We’d picked up Brotherhood’s Pinot Noir during a trip to Cohoes (near Albany) and still had the bottle open when we uncorked the Earnscleugh Valley Three Miners. A perfect opportunity to taste, compare, and contrast.
Brotherhood Pinot Noir 2005 $13
Brotherhood’s winery is located one hour north of Manhattan, but its Pinot is made from grapes farmed “from the cool slopes of the Finger Lakes.” A beautiful ruby color, the wine is light and elegantly styled, with vanilla and caramel on the nose and a slight hint of oak. Smooth and soft berry flavors, with a lovely finish. As we wrote in our initial review, a good Pinot—not a great one—that we would buy again if the occasion arose.
Three Miners Central Otago Pinot Noir 2004 $30 A Must Buy!
Earnscleugh Valley in Central Otago claims to have “the toughest conditions on earth to grow grapes and the extreme conditions produce truly outstanding wines.” We can’t vouch for the conditions but we’ll agree to the outstanding wine part. This New Zealand contender beats Brotherhood by a New York mile. It has a more refined nose, with hints of vanilla and cocoa and a bit of oak. Vibrant red fruit: cherries, some berries. Gary found it a “well balanced Pinot with just the right amount of tannin structure to juggle the fruit on the palate. This is a seductive Pinot. Once again, the Kiwis got it right!” At more than twice the price of the Brotherhood, Three Miners is still, as one wag noted, just $10 a miner. We strongly recommend it.
The latest upstart is New Zealand. Best known for its Sauvignon Blanc, NZ is making headway with luscious Pinot Noir, particularly from the Central Otago region. And then there’s Washingtonville, New York. What, you haven’t discovered this emerging Pinot region? Well, not exactly a region. Maybe one winery—Brotherhood, the country’s oldest winery, located in the Hudson River Valley. We’d picked up Brotherhood’s Pinot Noir during a trip to Cohoes (near Albany) and still had the bottle open when we uncorked the Earnscleugh Valley Three Miners. A perfect opportunity to taste, compare, and contrast.
Brotherhood Pinot Noir 2005 $13
Brotherhood’s winery is located one hour north of Manhattan, but its Pinot is made from grapes farmed “from the cool slopes of the Finger Lakes.” A beautiful ruby color, the wine is light and elegantly styled, with vanilla and caramel on the nose and a slight hint of oak. Smooth and soft berry flavors, with a lovely finish. As we wrote in our initial review, a good Pinot—not a great one—that we would buy again if the occasion arose.
Three Miners Central Otago Pinot Noir 2004 $30 A Must Buy!
Earnscleugh Valley in Central Otago claims to have “the toughest conditions on earth to grow grapes and the extreme conditions produce truly outstanding wines.” We can’t vouch for the conditions but we’ll agree to the outstanding wine part. This New Zealand contender beats Brotherhood by a New York mile. It has a more refined nose, with hints of vanilla and cocoa and a bit of oak. Vibrant red fruit: cherries, some berries. Gary found it a “well balanced Pinot with just the right amount of tannin structure to juggle the fruit on the palate. This is a seductive Pinot. Once again, the Kiwis got it right!” At more than twice the price of the Brotherhood, Three Miners is still, as one wag noted, just $10 a miner. We strongly recommend it.
New York State Wine Seller, Cohoes, NY
In Boston, the name Cohoes is synonymous with a failed clothing store that opened in the ‘burbs and closed in less than two years. Little did we know that Cohoes, the store, was named after Cohoes, the mill town just outside Albany, NY. After visiting downtown Cohoes on a pilgrimage to the New York State Wine Seller—a wonderful shop selling New York-only wines—we expect the town to have a brighter future than the now-bankrupt retailer.
In fact, down-on-its-luck Cohoes has been working hard to stage a comeback for more than a decade. Boosters are sprucing up the turn-of-the-century (the last one) downtown, converting empty mills into chic lofts for Albany-area yuppies, and enticing entrepreneurs to open shops. Three such go-getters are cousins Diane Conroy-LaCivita and Jane LaCivita Clemente, and Diane’s husband Joe, who invested $185,000 in three century-old buildings on Cohoe’s main drag, Remsen Street. After a serious remodel, they opened New York State Wine Seller at the Harmony House Marketplace in November 2006.
Now, we love sampling wine from small, local producers. But not even VinoDuo would drive 2.5 hours just to go to a wine shop. What brought us to the New York State Wine Seller was a well-timed article in the Albany Times Union on the day of a business meeting in Albany. After a successful morning, Gary and Lisa MapQuested the Wine Seller and took a brief 15 minute ride to Cohoes. We stopped for lunch at the popular Black Cat Ale House then walked a few blocks to the wine shop.
Owner Jane LaCivita Clemente bounded into the Wine Seller shortly after we did and took us on an extensive tour of her small but comfortable shop. She stocks close to 300 labels from every New York wine region, but her heart clearly lies with the Finger Lakes. We were disappointed in the thin selection of Long Island wine (aside from Pindar and a few other better-known producers), but Jane eagerly wrote down our recommendations and vowed to expand her selection. If all goes well with our Albany client-to-be, we’ll hold Jane to her word on our next visit!
What We Bought
With a limited knowledge of New York state wines, we challenged Jane: pick out four great bottles under $25 for us to take home. Here’s what she picked, and our take—so far—on her selections.
Long Point Winery Zinfandel 2004 $14.99 THE WINNER!
We were skeptical…Zin from New York? How does this quintessentially California grape (by way of Italy, Croatia, et al) flourish on the banks of Cayuga Lake? Quite well, actually. Gary and Lisa are Zin lovers, so we uncorked this bottle the day after we bought it. What it lacks in sophistication (not as well structured as a typical California Zin) it makes up for in deeply satisfying flavor and smooth finish. Full of berries and licorice, with that great Zin pepper.
White Springs Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio 2005 $14.99
We have embraced several white blends recently, like the St. Supery Virtu, but the White Springs meritage left us cold. According to Gary, “It’s more Pinot Grigio than Chardonnay and I hate Pinot Grigio.” Lisa was a bit more charitable, saying, “It tastes like a drinkable $10 wine.” Unfortunately, White Springs (which also hails from the Finger Lakes) retails for $15. It was citrusy, with a slight metallic overtone, and reminded us of a basic house white. Clearly we will not return to Cohoes just to purchase this wine again.
Brotherhood Pinot Noir 2005 $13.00 Brotherhood was founded in 1839, which makes it, apparently, America’s oldest winery. The Pinot was pleasant: light and elegantly styled. It’s closer to the “old world” French Pinots, rather than the CA or Oregon fruit-forward style. Beautiful color; hints of vanilla and oak on the nose. Smooth and soft berry flavors, with a lovely finish. A good Pinot—not a great one—that we would buy again if the occasion arose.
Swedish Hill Late Harvest Vignoles 2005 $21.00
A fruity dessert wine that really makes its presence known. Not a subtle charmer, this hits you with peaches and pineapple. The label suggests a pairing with cheesecake. Lisa enjoyed it with her nightly sugar-free Jello and Light Cool Whip (the South Beach Diet lives.) Gary sipped it solo, with a multi-grain cereal chaser. Ah, the exciting life of two wine bloggers in love.
In fact, down-on-its-luck Cohoes has been working hard to stage a comeback for more than a decade. Boosters are sprucing up the turn-of-the-century (the last one) downtown, converting empty mills into chic lofts for Albany-area yuppies, and enticing entrepreneurs to open shops. Three such go-getters are cousins Diane Conroy-LaCivita and Jane LaCivita Clemente, and Diane’s husband Joe, who invested $185,000 in three century-old buildings on Cohoe’s main drag, Remsen Street. After a serious remodel, they opened New York State Wine Seller at the Harmony House Marketplace in November 2006.
Now, we love sampling wine from small, local producers. But not even VinoDuo would drive 2.5 hours just to go to a wine shop. What brought us to the New York State Wine Seller was a well-timed article in the Albany Times Union on the day of a business meeting in Albany. After a successful morning, Gary and Lisa MapQuested the Wine Seller and took a brief 15 minute ride to Cohoes. We stopped for lunch at the popular Black Cat Ale House then walked a few blocks to the wine shop.
Owner Jane LaCivita Clemente bounded into the Wine Seller shortly after we did and took us on an extensive tour of her small but comfortable shop. She stocks close to 300 labels from every New York wine region, but her heart clearly lies with the Finger Lakes. We were disappointed in the thin selection of Long Island wine (aside from Pindar and a few other better-known producers), but Jane eagerly wrote down our recommendations and vowed to expand her selection. If all goes well with our Albany client-to-be, we’ll hold Jane to her word on our next visit!
What We Bought
With a limited knowledge of New York state wines, we challenged Jane: pick out four great bottles under $25 for us to take home. Here’s what she picked, and our take—so far—on her selections.
Long Point Winery Zinfandel 2004 $14.99 THE WINNER!
We were skeptical…Zin from New York? How does this quintessentially California grape (by way of Italy, Croatia, et al) flourish on the banks of Cayuga Lake? Quite well, actually. Gary and Lisa are Zin lovers, so we uncorked this bottle the day after we bought it. What it lacks in sophistication (not as well structured as a typical California Zin) it makes up for in deeply satisfying flavor and smooth finish. Full of berries and licorice, with that great Zin pepper.
White Springs Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio 2005 $14.99
We have embraced several white blends recently, like the St. Supery Virtu, but the White Springs meritage left us cold. According to Gary, “It’s more Pinot Grigio than Chardonnay and I hate Pinot Grigio.” Lisa was a bit more charitable, saying, “It tastes like a drinkable $10 wine.” Unfortunately, White Springs (which also hails from the Finger Lakes) retails for $15. It was citrusy, with a slight metallic overtone, and reminded us of a basic house white. Clearly we will not return to Cohoes just to purchase this wine again.
Brotherhood Pinot Noir 2005 $13.00 Brotherhood was founded in 1839, which makes it, apparently, America’s oldest winery. The Pinot was pleasant: light and elegantly styled. It’s closer to the “old world” French Pinots, rather than the CA or Oregon fruit-forward style. Beautiful color; hints of vanilla and oak on the nose. Smooth and soft berry flavors, with a lovely finish. A good Pinot—not a great one—that we would buy again if the occasion arose.
Swedish Hill Late Harvest Vignoles 2005 $21.00
A fruity dessert wine that really makes its presence known. Not a subtle charmer, this hits you with peaches and pineapple. The label suggests a pairing with cheesecake. Lisa enjoyed it with her nightly sugar-free Jello and Light Cool Whip (the South Beach Diet lives.) Gary sipped it solo, with a multi-grain cereal chaser. Ah, the exciting life of two wine bloggers in love.
Port and Dessert Wines for the Holidays
The holidays are the perfect time to indulge in Port and other dessert wines. You're already doing just about everything to excess — Atkins dieters are carbo-loading; savers are spending; and casual drinkers are getting serious. So adding one more extravagance—a mellow, satisfying Port or late-harvest dessert wine after dinner—is the perfect end to an indulgent day.
Instead of a classic Churchill or Taylor Port, why not expand your horizons with a Port or dessert wine from a small producer? They may not have the pedigree of the centuries-old wineries, but they will warm you up and send you off to bed with a smile.
Instead of a classic Churchill or Taylor Port, why not expand your horizons with a Port or dessert wine from a small producer? They may not have the pedigree of the centuries-old wineries, but they will warm you up and send you off to bed with a smile.
|
Jonathan Edwards 2005 Napa Valley Petite Sirah Port – A ruby-style Port fortified with a two-year barrel aged Vidal brandy (from Fresno, CA) then aged for 20 months |
$40 |
|
Pedroncelli Vintage Port 2002 — Four different Portuguese varietals blended for a true Port |
$16 |
|
Mauritson, Independence Port 2005 Rockpile — Super Portuguese-style Port made with five varietals |
$30 |
|
Peachy Canyon Non-Vintage Port—A blend of vintages, starting with '02; smooth, with the Zin predominant |
$25 |
|
Wilson Winery Late Harvest Zinfandel 2004 80% of this winery’s production is Zinfandel. How could they miss with this sinful dessert wine? |
$25 |
|
Facelli Winery 2003 Late Harvest Syrah – The perfect accompaniment to a flourless chocolate torte |
$25 |
|
Four Vines 2003 Zin/Syrah Port – Late Harvest Zin and Syrah fortified with two year aged Brandy. Layers of fruit, spice, and chocolate. |
$25 |
|
Wild Coyote 2004 Zinfandel Port “Little Fawn”— Only 125 cases produced per year from their Estate Zin; fortified with Brandy for an amazing taste. Even the bottle is gorgeous. |
$55 |
|
Pindar 2001 Cabernet Port — Cabernet grapes, aged in small oak barrels for 2 years and released as a Vintage Ruby Port. Chocolaty, plummy, yummy. Not sure if the ’01 is still available but the 2003 is ready and waiting. |
$15 |
|
Waters Crest 2005 Night Watch (late harvest dessert wine – white vinifera). The 2006 is now available. |
$45 |
Along the Eastern Connecticut Wine Trail
The map of the Connecticut wine trail features a baker’s dozen (plus a
couple of extra Munchkins) of generally unknown wineries spread across
the state in two loop “trails”: East and West. We had hoped to tackle
both trails over Veteran’s Day weekend but the best B&B’s and inns
along the route were sold out (darn those New Yorkers,) so we headed
out on a Sunday to explore the Eastern part of the trail.
Our motivation? Ballet of Angels, from Sharpe Hill caught our attention at last year’s Boston Wine Expo and again at the Foxwoods Food and Wine Expo. We were anxious to see what else our neighboring state produced that was worthy of sampling, buying, and recommending.
The drive down from Boston was an easy shot out on the Mass Pike to Route 395, a lightly traveled, lightly populated (and thus boring to look at) highway. We pulled into Sharpe Hill in a speedy 90-minute drive.
The Day’s Wine Bounty
If you’d rather skip the travelogue and cut to the chase, here’s a list of the wines we bought. For the full list of what we tasted, read on.
Whites
• Priam Vineyards Salmon River White $15.50
• Priam Vineyards Late Harvest Riesling $28.50 (holiday special)
Reds
• Priam Vineyards Salmon River Red PV $32
• Jonathan Edward Napa Valley Syrah 2003 $27
• Jonathan Edwards Napa Valley Petite Syrah Port 2005 $40
Sharpe Hill Vineyard
Connecticut wines don’t exactly hog the spotlight in the American wine world, but if any winery has grabbed attention, it’s Sharpe Hill Vineyard. And it’s all due to Ballet of Angels (see review,) a meritage to end all meritages. Sharpe Hill also boasts one of the few fine dining locations in the Pomfret area, so it draws quite a crowd on weekends.
Tasting Room Ratings
This reproduction of a Colonial American barn-like tavern boasts post-and-beam construction with faux early American tsotchkes. Attractive wide plank floors and a wood-hewn tasting bar completed the historical décor.
The tasting room was filled with locals in sweatshirts cooling their heels for brunch at the acclaimed restaurant, along with a handful of out-of-town visitors. For the locals, the wine tasting seemed like a good way to while away 15 or 20 minutes before chowing down.
Atmosphere: 6
People/attitude: 9
People/knowledge: 5 – but they admitted knowing very little, so they get props for honesty
Palate cleansers: Ritz Crackers; how déclassé!
Any free goodies? No
What We Tasted
Nothing, since we can easily purchase Ballet of Angels at our local wine shop for a future Szechwan feast from our local favorite, Yangtze River in Lexington Center.
Priam Vineyards
We had never heard of Priam but it was the logical next stop after Sharpe Hill—it being a mere 45 minutes up the road on the “Wine Trail.” Priam—owned by Gloria Priam and her husband, winemaker Gary Crump—got its start as a grape grower and supplier to other area wineries. It became a licensed farm winery in 2002 and began selling its own wines the next year.
Priam was slammed the day we visited, and was short one tasting room staff member—namely, winemaker Gary Crump, who was out in the barnyard helping to free a chicken stuck in some fencing. Oh, the trials of being a small winery. Due to the congestion, we got herded to the back bar to wait for reinforcements.
Fortunately, Gary (Crump) quickly freed said chicken and returned to lead our tasting. And what a guide! Engaging, knowledgeable, and funny, Gary took us on a lengthy “tour” of his portfolio. A New Orleans native and self-taught winemaker (“I read books—how hard could it be?” he exclaimed,) Gary is turning out terrific wine produced in the style of Northern France and Germany.
Tasting Room Ratings
They also sell locally made goat cheese, sausage, and crackers for picnics.
Atmosphere: 8; austere but pleasant
People/attitude: 10
People/knowledge: 10 – when the winemaker talks, you listen
Palate cleansers: Wine crackers
Any free goodies? No, but you can add chocolate to the red wine tasting for fifty cents.
What We tasted
What We Bought
Stonington Vineyards
We left Priam Vineyards on a high note thinking that some very good wines can come from Connecticut. We eagerly awaited our next stop along the Wine Trail to uncover another hidden gem. After a 40 minute sprint down to the Connecticut Coast we arrived at Stonington Vineyards at 4:15 pm wondering how we would fit the tastings at Stonington and nearby Jonathan Edwards Winery into a 30-minute window. Alas, Stonington Vineyards was a disappointment and our fears over the time constraints were unfounded; we were in and out of Stonington in 10 minutes.
Tasting Room Ratings
The winery is on the market, which might account for the indifferent tasting room service.
Atmosphere: 5
People/attitude: 5 (cold, indifferent and snooty)
People/knowledge: 5 (this is being exteremely generous)
Palate cleansers: Wine crackers
Any free goodies? No (are you kidding?)
What We tasted
Nothing
Jonathan Edwards Winery
We blew it out of Stonington at 4:40 and made it to Jonathan Edwards with 15 minutes to close. Fortunately, the crowds had thinned and we had the tasting room to ourselves. Just VinoDuo, two tasting room employees and Mr. Edwards himself. No, not the singer or the Colonial fire and brimstone preacher. Just a young guy whose family named their winery after him. We made the usual comment to him about his name (did he lay around the shanty and get a good buzz on?, ha ha) and then set about tasting his wine.
Tasting Room Ratings
One of the nicest settings we’d seen all day, the winery is set on nearly 50-acres of rolling farm land, with knock-out views. The tasting room is beautifully designed and fits perfectly with the New England farmhouse décor.
Atmosphere: 10
People/attitude: 10
People/knowledge: 10
Palate cleansers: Whole Foods 365 Crackers
Any free goodies? No
Our motivation? Ballet of Angels, from Sharpe Hill caught our attention at last year’s Boston Wine Expo and again at the Foxwoods Food and Wine Expo. We were anxious to see what else our neighboring state produced that was worthy of sampling, buying, and recommending.
The drive down from Boston was an easy shot out on the Mass Pike to Route 395, a lightly traveled, lightly populated (and thus boring to look at) highway. We pulled into Sharpe Hill in a speedy 90-minute drive.
The Day’s Wine Bounty
If you’d rather skip the travelogue and cut to the chase, here’s a list of the wines we bought. For the full list of what we tasted, read on.
Whites
• Priam Vineyards Salmon River White $15.50
• Priam Vineyards Late Harvest Riesling $28.50 (holiday special)
Reds
• Priam Vineyards Salmon River Red PV $32
• Jonathan Edward Napa Valley Syrah 2003 $27
• Jonathan Edwards Napa Valley Petite Syrah Port 2005 $40
Sharpe Hill Vineyard
Connecticut wines don’t exactly hog the spotlight in the American wine world, but if any winery has grabbed attention, it’s Sharpe Hill Vineyard. And it’s all due to Ballet of Angels (see review,) a meritage to end all meritages. Sharpe Hill also boasts one of the few fine dining locations in the Pomfret area, so it draws quite a crowd on weekends.
Tasting Room Ratings
This reproduction of a Colonial American barn-like tavern boasts post-and-beam construction with faux early American tsotchkes. Attractive wide plank floors and a wood-hewn tasting bar completed the historical décor.
The tasting room was filled with locals in sweatshirts cooling their heels for brunch at the acclaimed restaurant, along with a handful of out-of-town visitors. For the locals, the wine tasting seemed like a good way to while away 15 or 20 minutes before chowing down.
Atmosphere: 6
People/attitude: 9
People/knowledge: 5 – but they admitted knowing very little, so they get props for honesty
Palate cleansers: Ritz Crackers; how déclassé!
Any free goodies? No
What We Tasted
- Ballet of Angels — An amalgam of 10 different non-estate wines. This is the winery’s cash cow; they distribute 10,000 cases in Connecticut alone. We like this wine and would recommend it to accompany Szechwan Chicken and Peanuts or other spicy food. Lovely notes of apricot, honeydew, and grapefruit.
- 2005 American Chardonnay—In a word, this was awful. Harsh lemon-citrus flavors were hard to sample due to the thin, watery consistency
- 2005 Sharpe Hill Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay—Creamy nose; a bit of oak, but the Joy stopped there—literally. Gary said it tasted like water laced with detergent
- 2005 Sharpe Hill Vineyard Dry Riesling –-No Bon Ami this time, just the chemicals left over from the last cleaning of the stainless steel vats
- Dry Summer Rosé – Best of the vineyard’s single varietals. Drinkable but nothing extraordinary
- Red Seraph – This combination of Merlot and St. Croix grapes had a nose more promising than its taste
- 2005 Cabernet Franc – A promising Cab Franc nose with dark caramel scent, but a rough, chemical taste. They said it would cellar well, but Gary couldn’t taste the tannins that would allow this wine to age well
- 2005 St. Croix
– Another great nose, with tobacco, leather, cassis, and smoke. Tasting
notes promised an elegantly dry Rhone-style wine with a smooth buttery
finish. Alas, all we tasted was a thin gruel with little tannin and a
chemical aftertaste. Perhaps we just don’t like the Saint Croix grape…
perhaps the folks on the island of St. Croix might have a problem
sharing their namesake with this unusual grape.
- 2006 Select Late Harvest
– Vignole grapes. Super-sweet with tropical flavors, mostly pineapple.
Too sweet to be a good accompaniment for Baby Watson Cheesecake.
Nothing, since we can easily purchase Ballet of Angels at our local wine shop for a future Szechwan feast from our local favorite, Yangtze River in Lexington Center.
Priam Vineyards
We had never heard of Priam but it was the logical next stop after Sharpe Hill—it being a mere 45 minutes up the road on the “Wine Trail.” Priam—owned by Gloria Priam and her husband, winemaker Gary Crump—got its start as a grape grower and supplier to other area wineries. It became a licensed farm winery in 2002 and began selling its own wines the next year.
Priam was slammed the day we visited, and was short one tasting room staff member—namely, winemaker Gary Crump, who was out in the barnyard helping to free a chicken stuck in some fencing. Oh, the trials of being a small winery. Due to the congestion, we got herded to the back bar to wait for reinforcements.
Fortunately, Gary (Crump) quickly freed said chicken and returned to lead our tasting. And what a guide! Engaging, knowledgeable, and funny, Gary took us on a lengthy “tour” of his portfolio. A New Orleans native and self-taught winemaker (“I read books—how hard could it be?” he exclaimed,) Gary is turning out terrific wine produced in the style of Northern France and Germany.
Tasting Room Ratings
They also sell locally made goat cheese, sausage, and crackers for picnics.
Atmosphere: 8; austere but pleasant
People/attitude: 10
People/knowledge: 10 – when the winemaker talks, you listen
Palate cleansers: Wine crackers
Any free goodies? No, but you can add chocolate to the red wine tasting for fifty cents.
What We tasted
- Blackledge White – No nose to speak of; sweet, apple-infused flavor
- Salmon River White – A barrel-fermented Chardonnay blend with Riesling and Muscat. Just bottled and needs a little time, but showed great promise with apples and pears on the palate and a soft finish
- Jeremy River White – Floral, sweet, with grapefruit on the nose. A blend of Riesling and Cayuga, a grape typically found in the Finger Lakes region of NY
- Westchester Red – Our notes say this is “Red wine for an American palate,” meaning it’s got some residual sugar on the palate and very accessible. Lots of fruit, from berries to plums. Best with red sauce Italian or other spicy, hearty food
- Salmon River Red – A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, and Merlot. Nice strong fruit on the nose, a hint of chocolate on the palate. Drinkable, but pales in comparison to the PV version (see below.)
- Salmon River Red - PV – The pick of Priam’s reds, the PV was a beautiful, elegant wine. The Bordeaux blend was barrel aged for 36 months (compared with 12 months for the standard Salmon River Red offering) and single-barrel bottled. We loved the earthy nose and bold but not pushy fruit flavors. We picked up a fair amount of chocolate, too. This will need to age a few years; can’t wait until 2010!
- Late Harvest Riesling
– A perfect dessert wine for the holidays. Yes, it was sweet but not
sickeningly so, with luscious fruit and a bit of crispness.
What We Bought
- One bottle Salmon River White $15.50
- One bottle Late Harvest Riesling $28.50 (holiday special)
- One bottle Salmon River Red PV $32
Stonington Vineyards
We left Priam Vineyards on a high note thinking that some very good wines can come from Connecticut. We eagerly awaited our next stop along the Wine Trail to uncover another hidden gem. After a 40 minute sprint down to the Connecticut Coast we arrived at Stonington Vineyards at 4:15 pm wondering how we would fit the tastings at Stonington and nearby Jonathan Edwards Winery into a 30-minute window. Alas, Stonington Vineyards was a disappointment and our fears over the time constraints were unfounded; we were in and out of Stonington in 10 minutes.
Tasting Room Ratings
The winery is on the market, which might account for the indifferent tasting room service.
Atmosphere: 5
People/attitude: 5 (cold, indifferent and snooty)
People/knowledge: 5 (this is being exteremely generous)
Palate cleansers: Wine crackers
Any free goodies? No (are you kidding?)
What We tasted
- 2006 Sheer Chardonnay – Unoaked, with a sharp, thin, tart taste… sheer was a good name for this wine
- 2003 Stonington Chardonnay – Spends 12 months in oak. Gives a whole new meaning to terroir—we tasted nothing but limestone and minerals
- 2004 Vidal Blanc – Like Cayuga, Vidal Blanc was another unfamiliar (to VinoDuo) varietal. It’s common to Canada and other northern wine regions. Dry with a citrus finish—we found it contained too much acid to enjoy
- 2006 Gewurztraminer – Again, acidic with no smooth edges
- Seaport White – A blend of Chardonnay, Vidal Blanc, and Cauyga. Lisa’s notes cite “dirty socks on the nose.” Um…not a good thing
- 2006 Triad Rosé –
The best of Stonington Vineyards’ production. A blend of Cab Franc,
Chardonnay, and Vidal make this a refreshing summer wine. Gary found it
“fresh and clean.”
Nothing
Jonathan Edwards Winery
We blew it out of Stonington at 4:40 and made it to Jonathan Edwards with 15 minutes to close. Fortunately, the crowds had thinned and we had the tasting room to ourselves. Just VinoDuo, two tasting room employees and Mr. Edwards himself. No, not the singer or the Colonial fire and brimstone preacher. Just a young guy whose family named their winery after him. We made the usual comment to him about his name (did he lay around the shanty and get a good buzz on?, ha ha) and then set about tasting his wine.
Tasting Room Ratings
One of the nicest settings we’d seen all day, the winery is set on nearly 50-acres of rolling farm land, with knock-out views. The tasting room is beautifully designed and fits perfectly with the New England farmhouse décor.
Atmosphere: 10
People/attitude: 10
People/knowledge: 10
Palate cleansers: Whole Foods 365 Crackers
Any free goodies? No