Wandering Old San Juan’s hilly streets and alleyways is always a treat, especially for two winter-weary Bostonians seeking sun and sustenance. We’ve visited this fabulous city a half-dozen times, soaking in the Latin vibe and ogling the centuries-old homes and shops that line the streets. During the first “fitness walk” on our recent trip we stumbled on Casa Galena, (108 Calle Cruz) a new boutique with some of the finest tsotchkes any tasteful home-goods shopper would desire. When he hit the back of the shop, Gary let out a “Yes!” (and I swear he did a fist pump too.) He had discovered a small selection of wine from Argentina, Spain, and Portugal. Most of the offerings were unknown to us; some were vaguely familiar from past Boston Wine Expo or ViniPortugal tastings. 

 

Finding a well-curated wine collection in the heart of the old city was a step up for our San Juan wine experiences. Better known for its rum and local beer, the area’s liquor stores mostly boast Gallo and Yellow Tail, while restaurants still tend towards unremarkable (and improperly stored) “vino tinto” or “vino blanco” house wines.

The 2006 Mendoza Valley (Argentina) harvest produced some outstanding wines at terrific prices so we opted for a bottle of the Bodega Sottano 2006 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon. At checkout, the Casa Galena shop owner told us we picked “the best”; one of her favorites.  Assuming she had impeccable taste, we asked for a dinner recommendation so we could enjoy the Cab that evening. She wasn’t aware of any BYO restaurants but raved about the chef-owned La Cucina Di Ivo, (202 Calle de Cristo) whose $15 corkage fee was palatable.

 

What We Ate…What We Drank

Well, Casa Galena’s owner batted 2 for 2 that night! The restaurant was charming, secluded, and molto Italiano. Quietly empty with just one other table occupied, we had the airy outdoor courtyard to ourselves. Gary had the Chickpea Soup and Gnocchi Bolognese; Lisa ordered the House Special Salad (field greens, Granny Smith Apples, Walnuts, and Feta cheese) and the Gnocchi with fresh peas, Prosciutto, and langoustines. Chef Ivo Bignami makes all his pasta, sauces, dressings, and bread from scratch. The Gnocchi were, as Lisa put it, “light, feathery little pillows” and the bread—with garlic and chive-speckled butter—was rustic yet light.

 

And the wine? A Mighty Fine Accompaniment

The Bodega Sottano Cabernet complemented the meal beautifully. The winery’s founder immigrated to Mendoza from the Veneto in 1890, bringing with him an Italian winemaking sensibility.  The Cab was deep, dark garnet in color with powerful but not overwhelming aromas of cherry/plum/currant mash and hints of vanilla, cassis, and toasted oak.  The flavors bore out the complex aromas: a long, subtle, sophisticated taste featuring currant and plum on the palate with a vanilla and cocoa finish. The wine was very food-friendly with rich silky tannins (not a fruit bomb) We deemed it a new world wine with true old world roots. We added the 06 Bodega Sottano Reserva Cab to our “Must Buy!” list and look forward to hunting it down in our local wine shop.

 

        

Over the past few years, the Portuguese wine industry has labored mightily to change the common equation Portugal = Port.  ViniPortugal, the industry’s trade arm, has blitzed the United States with tastings and seminars for the trade and the wine-loving public; swank events to introduce non-Port wines from the many Portuguese growing regions.  Last year, we attended a sumptuous wine dinner at L’Espalier (http://tinyurl.com/yjhc4dm), which paired a dozen Portuguese wines with adventurous French cuisine. We could only recommend four of the 12, with our favorite being, of course, a Port.

So when two invitations arrived for events just days apart promoting Portuguese wine, we were wary but eager to try again, particularly since the first occasion was all about Port and wines of the Douro region.  Did we mention that Gary is a Port fanatic?  No way would he pass up an afternoon roaming around 17 tables brimming with Tawny, Ruby, and even a few white Ports.

Portos and Wines of the Douro
This sprawling tasting was held at Boston University’s Elizabeth Bishop Wine Resource Center, previously known to Bostonians as the Peter Fuller Cadillac showroom.  The trade was let in for a two-hour preview before the hordes arrived, and we were grateful for the relative quiet in this cavernous space.  Since this tasting was all about Port, the objective clearly was not to push the more than 200 indigenous grapes of Portugal.  This was all about setting the public straight regarding Port.  Like Champagne, which is legally only a product of the Champagne region of France, the designation of Port can only apply to the Douro region of Portugal. Many wineries slap a Port label on any late harvest red wine that’s fortified with Brandy.  But with more than 100 Ports on display at the tasting, there’s no need to go for the faux when the real thing is so bountiful.

Wines of Portugal: Discover the Diversity
The second event was a trade-only tasting with 30 producers/distributors and over 200 Portuguese wines of all varietals. Sponsored by ViniPortual and Boston Magazine, the show was held at a funky loft space (cunningly called The Loft) in South Boston.  This is one of those neighborhoods Boston boosters have called “hot” for about 20 years.  As old fart suburbanites, all we wanted to know was “Where’s the parking and will our car be safe?”

As we table-hopped we were struck by how many producers lacked Boston-area, or any US distribution. One of the objectives of this event was to motivate wine shop owners to push some of that Yellow Tail, Woodbridge, and Almaden out of the way to make room for value-priced and superior Portuguese wines.  Maybe the wines they served at the L’Espalier dinner were just not to our taste. Or, maybe we were in a bad mood that night. As we left The Loft after two hours of tasting (relieved to find our car still there,) we knew we had many more than four wines to recommend.
 
Cut to the Chase — What to Drink
Here’s a list of our “must buy” and “good buy” wines—examples of what we liked, not what some famed wine-god bestowed a 90+ rating on. We can’t vouch for their point value, but we believe they are all well-crafted, well-priced wines we will be happy to buy and serve with our favorite meals.

Detailed tasting notes follow the list.

Our “Go Out of Your Way to Buy” list
•    Quinta Do Bom Retiro 20 Year Old Tawny — $50.
•    Calem Colheita DOC Porto 1994 Tawny Port  — $46
•    Kopke Colheita DOC Porto 1966 Tawny  — $154 (for a ½ bottle no less!)
•    Quinta Da Romaneira,Douro Doc 2005 (Red) — $8
•    Herdade Grande Tinto 2006 (Red) — $30
•    Domini Plus 2007 — $35

Our “Buy if You Find Them” list
•    Carm Colheita 2008 White
•    Carm Reserva 2008 White — $20
•    Carm Reserva 2007 Red — $30
•    Quintas das Tecedeiras Reserva 2006 — $12
•    Quinta do Cachao Reserva 2006 (Caves Messias, DOC Dão)*

*Good luck; no US distribution

PORT
From Adriano Ramos Pinto
Quinta de Ervamoira, 10 year old Tawny
Single vineyard, estate bottled.  Lisa thought it was too “hot.”  Gary found it to be similar to an imposter “Port” from Yalumba-Australia.  It’s a lighter style Tawny (a baby-Tawny?) with hints of leather, tobacco, and smoke.

Quinta Do Bom Retiro 20 Year Old Tawny — $50
Also a single vineyard (or quinta) Tawny that’s (like the name) “da bomb!” With smooth cigar-box, leather, vanilla aromas, this creamy, smooth, luscious Tawny is on our must-buy list.

Quinta Do Bom Retiro 30 Year Old Tawny
While this was fairly good, the 20-Year Old Tawny was the star at this table.  At $80, this is also somewhat overpriced.

From Sogevinus Calem DOC Douro
Calem DOC Porto Reserva Tawny
Aged 7 years in small oak casks; Lisa said that it had the aroma of “grandpa’s tobacco with some fruit.”  Gary noted an aroma of toasted walnuts and vanilla.  There was a significant amount of alcohol at the beginning of the taste followed by hints of leather and vanilla on the way to a long, velvety finish.

Calem DOC Porto 10 Year Old Tawny Port
Lisa found it smooth and smoky, but Gary’s comment was “nope!”

Calem Colheita DOC Porto 1994 Tawny Port
“Colheita” means honey in Portuguese and this honey-colored Tawny was well crafted and very complex.  The leather and tobacco overtones melded with vanilla toast to make this a refined, delicious after dinner Port. Must buy.

Calem Vintage DOC Porto 2004
A Ruby Port made in large vats. Our notes reference a spicy, peppery nose with cocoa and caramel through the mid-palate to the finish.  While this is drinking well now, it will mature further in the bottle over the next 4-6 years.

Calem Vintage DOC Porto 2007
Ruby Port with deep cherry nose and good structure; delicious, bright cherry-plum on the palate. Delicious but immature now, it will age well.  Try again in 3-5 years.

From Sogevinus Fine Wines; CH Kopke
Kopke Port DOC Porto 10 Year Old Tawny White
It’s not every day you come across a white Tawny and this was a very nice stand-in for a cordial, with a toasty vanilla nose accompanied by some light honey on the palate. Gary said it “screams for Key Lime Pie.”

Kopke Colheita DOC Porto, 1999 Tawny
A single wine, single year Tawny with an unusual deep brown color. An elegant Port with rich leather/tobacco aromas and delicious silky almond notes on the palate

Kopke Colheita DOC Porto 1966 Tawny — $154
Yes, that’s right, 1966!  This light amber Tawny had aromas of the finest pipe tobacco and rolled over the palate like cashmere and silk. An amazing Port we were thrilled to have a chance to taste. Gary’s “best Tawny of the show” is now on our fantasy must buy list.

WHITE and ROSE

From Carm Winery, DOC Douro
Carm Colheita 2008 Rosé
This blush colored wine has an interesting butterscotch nose but, says Lisa, there was no pay-off on the palate.

Carm Colheita 2008 White
A delicate, anisette-tinged nose; light and refreshing on the palate.  A perfect match for your favorite shellfish appetizer or meal. Buy.

Carm Reserva 2008 White — $20
The butterscotch/vanilla nose was backed up by a lively, grassy/limestone palate with light fruit and honey. Aged in oak for 8 months. Buy.

From Herdade Do Esporao 1267
Esporao Verdelho 2008
Nice fruit on the palate accompanied by creamy edges.  Lisa calls this the perfect summer sipper deck wine.  Too bad it’s not summer….or fall, for that matter.

Esporao Reserva, DOC Alentejo
Fresh perfumed, citrus nose; creamy palate with good balance of white fruits.  Blend of Antao Vaz, Arinto, and Roupiero grapes.

From Herdade da Comporta (no US Importer)
Herdade da Comporta Antao Vaz 2008 VR Terras do Sado
Light floral nose; creamy, light fruity palate. A perfect accompaniment to sushi or a nicely grilled whitefish like trout.

Herdade da Comporta 2008 VR Terras do Sado
Honeysuckle/apricot on the nose, semi-dry style. Good to pair with Thai food.

From Herdade Grande
Herdade Grande Branco 2008; a blend of Antao Vax (75%) and Arinto (25%)
The tasting starts with a beautiful floral bouquet nose; on the palate the wine featured light fruit with butterscotch and a rich finish.

REDS
Carm Colheita 2007 Red
We noticed pepper and eucalyptus on the nose and thought this would be an excellent match for braised baby lamb chops.  Delicious!

Carm Reserva 2007 Red —  $30
A concentrated fruit-forward wine with flavors that remind us of caramel and cherry compote. The long finish provided by the smooth tannins and ample fruit were similar to far more expensive wines.  Carm’s Reserva Red should age gracefully and gain further complexity over the next 5-6 years, but it is certainly ready to drink now.  Carm’s portfolio proves that good wine can still be had at a reasonable price.  We rate this wine a buy.
 
From Sociedade Agricola Da Romaneira DOC Douro
Quinta Da Romaneira,Douro Doc 2005 Red —  $30
Gary was stunned; his first words were “Wow, this is terrific!” This tasted like an elite wine with an excellent balance of fruit, tannins, spice and suppleness.  It was truly a Goldilocks wine for Lisa as she said it was like heavenly raisins and was the best wine in the show.  We rate this wine a must-buy.

From Vidigal Wines; Not represented in the Northeast.
Reserva dos Amigos 2007 (@ $15).  
Perhaps the best burger and pizza wine we’ve tasted; one that would be a real crowd pleaser at parties too.  Tasting note: Good structure and fruit combine for a smooth concoction that will age for 4-5 years.

From Dao Sul Global Wines
QdoE, DOC Bairrada 2007; a blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Baga grapes
Deep red and blackberry notes on the nose with a dark garnet color. On the palate, there was “beaucoup earth with mineral overtones,” according to Lisa.

Quintas das Tecedeiras Reserva 2006; (6-grape blend) —  $12
This has a nice deep cherry nose and a terrific balance of tannins and fruit throughout the taste.  Tastes like a far more expensive wine and is a terrific value. Buy list.

Herdade Grande
Herdade Grande Tinto 2006 (blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah) — $30
Bright cherry, vanilla, and toasted oak on the nose and layered tannins with leather, cigar box and balanced fruit from start to finish. This is a master-crafted wine that will only improve with age. We have added this to our must buy list.

From Jose Maria Da Fonseca Wines
Domini Plus 2007 (blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesca, and Tinta Barroca) —  $35
Cedar, leather, cigar box, and deep berry; Complex, robust blackberry and cherry with layered silky tannins.  Perfect match for your favorite grilled lamb dish. Must buy.  

Periquita Reserva 2005 (Blend of Castelao, Touriga Nacional, and Touriga Franca
An excellent example of old world winemaking that features complexity throughout the tasting. We noted spice, mineral and caramelized cherry compote on the mid-palate with a dryish finish.  A good wine value!

From Herdade Sao Miguel Wines, No US Representation
Ciconia 2008, Blend of Aragones, Syrah and Touriga Nacional
Lisa likes this wine because of its fragrant nose and terrific balance of fruit and tannins; a very drinkable pizza and burger wine.

From Caves Messias, DOC Dao, No US Representation
Quinta do Cachao Reserva 2006, Blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca Characterized by a deep ruby color, nice fruity, smoky nose with a good balance of fruit and smooth tannins. An excellent value and it’s on our buy list—as soon as they get US representation.

        

The sun shone, the sky was a radiant blue, the tents billowed in a late summer breeze. In short, Mother Nature—or maybe it was Mrs. Vanderbilt—cooperated this year with the Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival (at least on Saturday.)  Last year’s event was marred by monsoon-like rain, which sent rivulets of mud through those same beautiful tents.  This year not even the recession could tarnish this fantastic seaside festival.  Yes, the Friday night gala at The Breakers served up a little less haute cuisine and a little more comfort food, but wine is the main event of this annual affair and the wine flowed steadily through two Vanderbilt mansions, economy be damned.

At the weekend Grand Tasting, held once again at Marble House, more than 100 wineries from the US, Europe, and a handful of other wine-producing regions poured 400+ wines. Try as we might we just couldn’t taste them all, but we did find a baker’s dozen of outstanding wines to recommend.

Where Italy dominated last year’s European offerings, France seemed to take center stage. Côtes du Rhône, Burgundy, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and The Loire Valley were all well represented. Gary swooned over one Chateauneuf. Lisa was unmoved by the Loire’s Sancerre (despite its claim to fame as the “spiritual home of Sauvignon Blanc,” her white varietal of choice.) Of the 13 wines we’re recommending, eight are from the US, three from Portugal, and two from Italy. I guess the New World still claims our heart and palate, but the Old World is making steady inroads.

Disclosure: VinoDuo did not pay for tickets to the Festival; our press pass was good for both Friday and Saturday. However, anyone who reads our blog knows we are not swayed by freebies…we tell ‘em as we see ‘em.

Whites

 

Sonoma Loeb Wines 2007 Private Reserve Chardonnay $25
A delicious Chardonnay (especially at this price point) with a great balance of butterscotch, fruit, and a touch of creamy butter.  Some hints of toasty oak on the palate. This made it onto our buy list The Loeb of the title is winery owner Ambassador John Loeb Jr, former ambassador to Denmark during the Reagan administration.  This elegant, elder statesman was in attendance at the tasting, looking not a little uncomfortable and probably wishing he were at a state dinner in Copenhagen.


Langworthy Farm (Westerly RI) Shelter Harbor 2006 Chardonnay $15
We’ve done the Connecticut Coastal Wine Trail and the Massachusetts Coastal Wine Trail, but after tasting the Langworthy Farm Chardonnay, it’s obviously time to hit the Rhode Island Trail.  Chardonnay is not Lisa’s white wine of choice, but she was taken with the honey and butterscotch notes on the nose; wet limestone mineral and citrus on palate. Hmmm… “Limestone?”  Mineral and citrus? Sounds a bit Sauvignon Blanc-y… no wonder Lisa liked it.


Reds

                   

Kenefick Ranch Winery—2006 Merlot $42
Gary says this is a “really wonderful example of how this much maligned wine can be elegant and collectible.”  On the palate, there’s an immediate deep blackberry-cherry fruit with silky tannins and a long finish. This is definitely a  “new world” style wine crying out for ground for ground lamb burgers on the grille.  The grapes are 100% Estate Grown, and the wine is aged in oak for 18 months.

Hope Family Wines—Candor Merlot NV $18
What’s this? A second Merlot worthy of a write up?  This version is a slightly fruit forward style wine with velvety tannins and smooth, slightly dry finish. We were happy to taste a Merlot from Paso Robles,  which we think of as prime Zinfandel territory. Note that we did not taste the Candor Zinfandel At this price point,  Hope’s Merlot is a very good value.

Four Vines 2006 Biker Zinfandel (Paso Robles, CA) $26
What do you want from your Zin?  Well, our resident Zinfandel expert, Lisa, says “Spice, deep blackberry and currant fruit, a smooth, silky texture and a long interesting finish.” Well, the Four Vines Biker Zin is all that and more… and the best of the Zins at the Four Vines tasting booth.  This is on our Buy List.  In answer to the question, “What do you want from your Zin,” Lisa also says, “I want my Four Vines Zin Bitch glass back; it broke on the way home from the vineyard three years ago. Won't someone send me a new one?"

Olho De Mocho Reserva 2007 (Portugal)—$30
A great wine to pair with lamb sirloin steaks on the barbeque.  Fruit and tannins balance to deliver a terrific, complex wine with a long, silky finish. Syrah and Touriga Nacional. A great value now on our Buy List! 

Herdade do Pombal 2006 Vino Tinto (Portugal)—$35
Absolutely delicious! Bursting with fruit, caramel, and leather on the palate, terrific tannin structure and balance throughout the tasting.  Combination of Aragones, Trincadeira, Alicante, Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon juice.  Compare this to some $50+ Bordeaux’s in terms of value—a real bargain.

2004 Michael David Winery Rapture Cabernet Sauvignon—$65
This wine is bursting with deep blackberry, black plum fruit, and chocolate highlights.  The smooth tannins mid-palate keep this powerful wine very accessible and delicious throughout its full, long finish with toasted oak-vanilla notes.  The wine is 97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc.  What’s unusual is the length of time in the French oak; @3 years.  The high (15%) alcohol content perks up the fruit in this great example of a new world wine.

Valle Reale San Calisto Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC 2004—$30
This wine is outstanding! Noted leather and some tobacco on the nose; strong, fruit forward on the palate with notes of spicy cherry-blackberry puree and earthiness on the palate.  Silky tannins make this a terrific wine to serve with any roasted meat or red sauce dish. This is on our Buy list!

San Polo 2003 Brunello Del Montalcino—$65 - $85
The San Polo is a terrific wine that lives up to the Brunello heritage of elegance. It’s incredibly smooth, creamy, and complex.  With the summer of 2003 marked by drought and high temperatures, this wine is testament to what great winemakers can do under just about any conditions.  We’ll shop around for this wine and while it’s not inexpensive, it rivals many wines of higher price and higher scores.

Wagner (Caymus CA) —2007 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Las Alturas $35 -$40
A succulent Pinot Noir with consistent light cherry and strawberry notes throughout the tasting. Full tannins make this smooth Pinot a truly special wine that carries on the Caymus tradition of superior winemaking. While a bit on the expensive side, it’s worth a try.

Trinchero (CA) 2007 Central Park West Cabernet Sauvignon. $40
Two days after the Newport show we popped into our local wine shop and put in an order this fab Cab. Eucalyptus and toasty oak/vanilla on the nose. We noted a great balance of fruit (blueberry and blackberry), cassis notes, and cocoa edges with opulent tannins that lead into a smoot  and pleasingly long finish. This was the first time that Trinchero had trotted-out this wine for a tasting in a public setting—glad we were there to welcome it.

2006 AOC Domaine de la Charbonniere Chateuax Cuvee Mourre Des Pedrix,  $55
Why is this amazing Chateauneuf?  Its luscious, silky tannins blend amazingly well with the deep black cherry/blackberry fruit that’s consistent throughout the long finish.  It’s drinking well right now and should age gracefully.  This is a must buy for special—no, all—occasions.

Brunello di Montalcino 'Col di Sole', Lionello Marchesi 2003, $75
2003 was a very difficult year in the European winery business due to the record high summer temperatures.  The heat stressed the vines and fruit yields were down by as much as 30%.  In an interview with Mr. Marchesi, who graced the Newport show with his presence, the winemaker said that he and his vineyard management decided to trim back extra leaf canopy, exposing more of the grapes to the sun.  Perhaps the subtle concentrated black fruit flavor is the result of this technique, perhaps not. On the nose, the Col di Sol Brunello starts with toasty cedar and aromas of sun-dried cherries. On the palate, the lush tannins embrace consistent fruit throughout the taste. This may be the perfect wine to pair with a deliciously aged Black Angus rib eye steak.  With the economic recovery in-sight, perhaps we’ll be adding this wine to our Must Buy list.



 



    

        

Our last blog post extolled the virtues of newly discovered (by us) Malbec wines from the Cahors region of Southwest France.  We thought it might be fun to stage a shoot-out between a stately old world Malbec and a sassy competitor from the new world of Argentina. The venue was our kitchen with cheeseburgers at 30 paces….

2005 Chateau De Cenac Eulalie vs. 2005 Kaiken Malbec Ultra
We got lucky at the Cahors Malbec show and snagged a couple of bottles from our favorite winery Chateau De Cenac.  For the shoot-out we selected the 2005 Eulalie (100% Malbec), which impressed us at the show with its “spicy oak and blackberry nose and…delicious blend of smooth tannins that provided a truly long, enjoyable, silky finish.”                  

The challenger was an old favorite from the Mendoza region of Argentina (and something we had in our cellar), the 2005 Kaiken Ultra (93% Malbec/7% Cab Sauv).  In our October 2007 review, we noted the wine’s “deep ruby red color” and flavors “full of berries and maybe a hint of vanilla.”

We ignored decanting suggestions (2 hours for the Eulalie; 1 hour for Kaiken) but each bottle was open for 30+ minutes before serving. With delicious grass-fed beef cheeseburgers as an accompaniment, the shoot-out commenced.

The Kaiken was deep ruby/black plum in color.  The aromas recalled leather, vanilla, and blackberry preserves.  This fruit-forward semi-bomb bursts with blackberries, cassis, and hints of tobacco.  As expected with new world wines, the Kaiken Ultra is elegant but in-your-face; a serious, drinkable Malbec that would be perfect to enjoy with special friends at a barbeque or a casual dinner.  But on second taste—90 minutes after opening—the bright flavors had receded and it seemed to disappear.

By contrast, the Eulalie Chateau De Cenac Malbec started slow but had a fantastic finish. A deep ruby color close to Kaiken’s coloring, the French Malbec had intoxicating aromas of toasty oak, vanilla, cedar and cigar humidor.  At first taste the wine was thin and pallid, clearly needing the two-hour decanting time. An hour later, the grape was fully revealed. The taste was refined with some earthiness, chocolate cherries, and a long, silky finish.

Both the old world entry and the new Malbec were fine accompaniments to the burgers. The Eulalie was the wine we chose to savor beyond the meal.  We’d select it over the Kaiken for more serious dining but we’d grab another Kaiken out of the cellar for an impromptu meal that couldn’t wait for a two-hour decant.

        

It’s unusual to start one of our posts with a quiz, but we couldn’t resist….

 

What two countries are celebrated for producing the world’s best Malbec? 

 

Here’s a hint…  they are on different continents… Tick, Tick, Tick, Tick. 

 

OK, You obviously got Argentina right. But if you also said the United States, you’re wrong.

 

It’s France! The Cahors region, to be precise. This small area slightly east of Bordeaux and North of Toulouse produces glorious Malbec on 6,600 hectares of land (second only to Argentina where Malbec is planted on over 24,000 hectares). 

 

So why does Argentina’s Malbec get all the great press?  This is not only puzzling but also a point of great frustration for the proud French wine establishment.  It seems that in the mid-19^th century, the winemakers of Cahors journeyed to South America as part of a good will effort to help the Argentine government improve its agricultural program.  File this under “no good deed goes unpunished.”  It took more than a century, but obviously Argentina learned well from its French mentors. Today, Malbec from Mendoza is as ubiquitous as Shiraz from Australia.  So the winemakers of Cahors are traveling the new world once again; this time to remind the Americas where this marvelous grape was mastered.

 

We caught up with the traveling Cahors Malbec show at the Boston Harbor Hotel, always a stunning backdrop for an afternoon wine tasting. The show featured more than 30 wineries showcasing their Malbec and Malbec blends. Many of the producers sent their winemakers—who in many cases were also the owners—to the tasting, underscoring the importance of the event to the Cahors region.  Between their broken English and Lisa’s schoolgirl French, we were able to chat amiably—if briefly—with the wine representatives.

 

At check-in we were handed a beautifully designed notebook with information about each of the wineries and the wines being poured.  Beyond the production notes any wine aficionado would want to know, the notebook went as far as to tell us exactly what each wine tasted like, dividing everything up into categories like “feisty & powerful” or “tender & fruity.” While Lisa appreciated these helpful hints, as her palate is still developing, Gary did not take kindly to the detailed descriptions. “Why not let me discover these wines’ characteristics; isn’t that why I’m here?” he grumbled.

 

As we wandered from table to table we quickly discovered that the French style of Malbec is quite different from the sassy, smoky Malbec from Argentina.  Not surprisingly, the French wine was more “old world;” less fruit forward, subtle, earthier, and, frankly, often less interesting.  Most Malbec from Mendoza is meant to be drunk young.  The Cahors folks brought plenty of mid-2000’s vintages that still weren’t ready for consumption. They were just too young, with vicious tannins fighting up against fruit and alcohol content.  This was just an ugly brawl on the palate.  

 

But, we did taste five Cahors Malbec wines that grabbed our attention, are reasonably priced, and made it onto our “must buy” list. Unfortunately, some of our favorites do not have distribution in the United States. Clearly, this US tour is designed to stir up interest among distributors so the wines of Cahors can expand its reach.

 

Note: to earn the Cahors Malbec appellation from the powers that be in France, the wind must be made with a minimum of 70% Malbec.  The most common blending grape is Merlot.  All of our favorite wines, however, were 100% Malbec.

 

 

What We Liked

2002 Chateau Vincens Les Graves De Paul ($25+/-)   Not Available in the US

Delicious; an elegant wine with round, silky tannins. Gary said it’s screaming for a roasted lamb shank. Ready to drink now but good luck finding it; no US distribution.  If you are heading to France anytime soon please pick up a bottle or two for us!

 

2005 Domaine Du Prince Lou Prince ($25+/-) Available in the US

This is a big, juicy wine with a terrific balance of fruit and layered complexity.  Toasty oak, leather and cigar box on the nose and, according to Lisa, chocolate velvet on the palate.

 

2006 Chateau Pineraie L’Authentique ($18 - $20)      Available in the US

The cheat sheet called this wine “intense and complex,” which it was. But that’s a little misleading. We call it lovely, elegant, round, and thoroughly enjoyable; outstanding. Its reasonable price point makes it a very good value when compared with higher-end Argentinean Malbec from Kaiken, Norton, or Trapiche.

 

2005 Chateau De Cenac Eulalie  ($25+/-)        Available in the US

This wine was also dumped into the “intense and complex” category, which for some might be off-putting. Gary was impressed with this wine’s spicy oak and blackberry nose and its delicious blend of smooth tannins that provided a truly long, enjoyable, silky finish. Lisa awarded it “best in show.”

 

2006 Chateau De Cenac Prestige ($18 - $20)  Available in the US

We were delighted to meet Chateau De Cenac winemaker Didier Pelvillain at Table 15 and learn a bit about his family-owned winery.  Didier is one of the three Pelvillain brothers and is clearly a master at his craft, since he charmed us with both his high-end Eulalie and the lower-priced Prestige label.  The Prestige was just delicious with great balance of fruit and tannins and a long silky finish just like its cousin.  At $18 this is steal.

 

We’ve written extensively about the Malbecs from Argentina and are big fans of their big taste.  We appreciated the opportunity to further our education and discover Malbec’s origins.  And we wish the traveling Cahors Malbec show “bon chance” as it makes its way across the New World.

        

We met with Doug Miles, Miles Wine Cellars’ co-founder, owner, and winemaker, at his storied lakefront Greek revival mansion in Himrod, NY.  Doug and his dad spent nearly two decades renovating the 1802 estate, with Doug personally crafting or restoring the intricate woodwork, stairways, and moldings. His caring, diligent workmanship is also visible across the 60 acres of vineyards his family has been tending since the late 1970’s. Among the grapes are Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Lemberger, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

                    

We were keen to visit with Doug Miles because of his wine’s reputation, but the mansion’s reputation as a haunted house took center stage during our tour. Doug and his family not only believe the ghost story, they’ve seen the ghosts.  They’ve even produced a Ghost wine as a tribute to the spectral spirits. Yes, we think it’s a bit of a gimmick. And it was distracting from the purpose of our tour of the estate. But as soon as Doug brought us into the tasting room and started pouring the visit really kicked up a notch.

What We Tasted

2006 Cabernet Franc
Mocha-anise nose.  The wine was served a bit too warm for our taste, but the character came out with hints of creamy cocoa overtones, and lots of cherry-blackberry fruit.  The finish was somewhat abrupt though with some lasting minerality on the palate.

2006 Pinot Noir
Made in the Burgundy style.  Vanilla-caramel nose, light garnet color and creamy cherries and vanilla on the palate.  The finish was very dry, very French.

2002 Milestone – bought 1bottle
This is the winery’s flagship brew. The toasted oak/leather/tobacco nose was inviting enough, but the taste was the true payoff.  Deep plum & blackberry fruit balanced with hints of white pepper and spice.  The smooth tannins provided for a terrific long finish.  This is truly a well-crafted Meritage wine.  50% Cabernet Franc, 49.5 % Merlot and 0.5 % Cabernet Sauvignon.

2006 Chardonnay – bought 1 bottle
Light balance of fruit, oak, and acid.  Delicious.

N. V. Ghost
A slightly sweet white wine that’s a blend of Chardonnay and Cayuga, the Finger Lakes’ “home grown” varietal. Great on a hot summer afternoon as a “deck wine.”

Doug filled us in on some new wines to be released soon, including a Lemberger Port, a Sparkling Cabernet Franc, and ’07 Merlot.  No Massachusetts distribution yet—but you can buy Miles in Iowa, go figure—so we’ll look forward to sampling these new releases on our next New York visit.  

        

Gary Barletta of Long Point Winery has eight acres of vines in Aurora NY but sources most of his grapes from California (Mendocino and Lodi). That’s raised a few hackles in the Finger Lakes’ wine community. Isn’t that sacrilegious? Isn’t that cheating? You can almost hear them huffing, “Sure, we could make phenomenal Zinfandel too if we imported our grapes.”

Well, if you’re a purist, you can log off now. But for those of you looking for special wines at a value price and don’t care where the damned grapes come from, read on for our reviews. We were fortunate to spend an hour with Gary during our recent Finger Lakes sojourn and got a private tasting, including some knock-out wines still in the barrel.


       


Located on 72 acres on the east side of Cayuga Lake, Long Point Winery crafts 16 wines from grapes grown both on-property and on the west coast. Home-grown varietals include Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and some Pinot Grigio.The rest are trucked in. 
Deal with it.

What We Tasted

2006 Chardonnay/2007 Chardonnay
A blend of juice that spent 12 months in both French and American oak.  The wine is a true work of art with brown sugar, vanilla and butterscotch overtones and a slightly creamy lemon finish.  The ‘07 Chardonnay is even better (100% French Oak,) with overtones of butterscotch cream, orange peel and some light minerality that makes this a Chardonnay to love. 

Barrel Tastings
Gary Barletta's favorite wine to make and drink is his Zinfandel. We shared our 2004 Long Point Zin discovery in Cohoes and he graciously opened up his barrels to give us a sneak peek of the vintages to come, along with a spectacular Syrah.

2007 Zinfandel (100% American Oak)
Mocha nose, just getting juicy and spicy. Very good!

2007 Zinfandel Reserve (100% Hungarian Oak)
More mocha, but, WOW! This is a very well crafted wine with refined tannin/fruit/spice balance.  We found it to be quite amazing and can’t wait to taste it out of a bottle instead of a syringe.

2007 Syrah (100% American Oak)
Nice toasted cocoa nose with deep, spicy blackberry fruit on the palate and a long, complex finish. This is a big winner.

Tasting Room Offerings

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% American Oak)
Nice caramel and fruit on the palate; fruit is from Mendocino.  We thought it needed additional time to age.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Thick and juicy with a fruit-forward style.  Nice mid-palate and long finish.

2006 Zinfandel
Port-like nose with nice tannin structure for a smooth, sleek finish.  The alcohol content was noted at 14.7 %

2006 Zinfandel Reserve
Smoky nose with cigar and chocolate notes.  Nicely balanced fruit, spice, tannin and further notes of chocolate.  This wine receives an “Excellent” from VinoDuo.

2006 Syrah
Smooth with tame fruit, nice meaty tannins, light mocha nose.  Gary may like to make Zinfandel, but he also makes one heck of a great Syrah. 

Despite what  the New York wine purists say, we’re big fans of the Long Point winery and its master craftsman Gary Barletta. Since his wine isn't yet sold in Massachusetts, we'll need to sneak across the border soon to stock up for the long Boston winter.

        

We spent our last day visiting three wineries on Keuka Lake—one unknown, one celebrated, and one disappointment. Keuka boasts the smallest wine trail, with just eight wineries spread across a very narrow, but pristine, lake.  Since we wanted to get home by bedtime, we limited our visit to Ravines Wine Cellars, McGregor Vineyard and Winery, and Dr. Konstantin Frank Wines.

We’ll dispense with our first stop right away. McGregor was the disappointment. People rave about the Black Russian Red and the civilized tasting room, where you lounge at lakefront picnic tables and the wine comes to you. While the tasting does indeed get a big thumbs up, our notes tell a different story: “harsh”; “kind of bland”; and “I don’t like this,” for the Black Russian Red.  The setting was so lovely, the staff so knowledgeable, and the complimentary snacks so tasty we wanted to love McGregor. And then we tasted Thistle Blush.  Success! A semi-sweet blend of Rosette and a touch of Ives (huh?) it oozed strawberry jam: fresh, fruity, clean, and not too sweet.  Relieved, we bought a bottle and left happy.

Moving on to the unknown Ravines, we found a winery where the quality of the wines matched the classic beauty of the tasting room. Winemaker Morten Hallgren is a French transplant whose family owned Domaine de Castel Roubine in Provence.  Before opening Ravines in 2003, Hallgren was chief winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank Wines.
                                                                                                                                                                                           
Greeted by Hallgren’s brother-in-law in the cool, modern tasting room we were told—almost apologetically—that Ravines specialized in dry wines in the European style. When we told him that’s why we were there, he grinned, explaining that many Finger Lakes visitors prefer the local sweet stuff.  We began with a vertical tasting of three Rieslings, moved steadily through the whites (pausing to admire the 07 Chard and dismiss the 07 Sauvignon Blanc) and lingered over several reds, particularly the Pinot and a classic Bordeaux Meritage.  The last pour was the best—the 07 Cabernet Franc, not yet released but sneak-peaked for VinoDuo. We bought:

•  2006 Meritage – Big, bold fruit and just the right amount of pepper and spice; probably should cellar a year or so
• 2007 Cabernet Franc – Spicy nose, cherry flavors and some white pepper

We went to the celebrated Dr. Frank’s fully expecting to hate it.  It was the most established, well-known winery in the region with a list of nearly 2 dozen wines for tasting. Visitors can’t simply walk into the tasting room; there’s literally a rope line where you wait to be let in. They say it’s so every tasting can be personalized, but it’s very off-putting. And then there’s the cult of personality around Dr. Frank. Every other word out of the staff’s mouth was “Dr. Frank did this, Dr. Frank did that, and then Dr. Frank blahblahblah.”  It reminded Lisa of the Coppola worship at his Napa vineyard.

                                

But you know, we wound up liking Dr. Frank’s. Not any of the value-priced Salmon Run plonk but the premier label and the Chateau Frank Champagne were quite good and reasonably priced.  Add in the drop-dead gorgeous view of the lake and this is one tasting experience you shouldn't miss. We walked out with half a case:

• 2007 Dr. Frank Chardonnay —Crisp citrus aroma; lime flavors too; little butter some oak
• 2007 Dr. Frank Dry Riesling — Floral and citrus nose; delicious spicy pear and grapefruit flavors
• Chateau Frank Celebre — An outstanding sparkling Riesling; apple and spice and a hint of honey sweetness
• 2002 Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs –-Elegant and delicious

And so after five days of tromping around this lovely rural paradise, we packed up our four cases of Finger Lakes wine, left behind the endless cornfields and two-lane country roads, and roared onto the New York Thruway towards home.

         

        

According to Lisa’s meticulously (some might say annoyingly) planned itinerary, Finger Lakes Day Four was reserved for the east side of Seneca Lake.  But since we changed our housing from Geneva to Penn Yan, the path to the east side was best reached by traversing the West side again. That gave us an opportunity to visit wineries we had missed the previous day. And since “flexibility” was now our middle name, we just went with the flow.

 First stop was Rock Stream Vineyards & Distillery, the Lake’s only licensed Grappa distillery. Gary and Lisa had fond, somewhat hazy, memories of downing Grappa on an Italian ski trip many years ago. We look forward to revisiting that experience. With a tasting room that resembles a roadside general store, a recording studio in the attic, and model radio control airplanes and model kits scattered around, this was one of our more unusual visits. Most unusual was having the winemaker, Dr. Mark Karasz, storm into the tasting room, berate his sister behind the counter, barely acknowledge us, and then leave. I guess everyone can have a bad day.  Sadly, the Grappa was not as satisfying as anticipated, despite winning Double Gold in the 2009 New York Wine and Food Classic. The alcohol was overwhelming on the palate and with hints of burned grape-seed. Most of Rock Stream’s mainstream wines were disappointing, with tasting notes a variation on the theme of “no flavor.” Then we tasted—and adored—the 2008 Dry Riesling, which redeemed Dr. Karasz. And so, we bought:

• Dry Riesling 2008 — Wonderful grapefruit and apricot on the nose and on the palate.

We next made a beeline for Atwater Estate Vineyards, our first east side stop.  Winemaker Vinny Aliperti had wowed us at his own winery, Billsboro, and we were anxious to see what he could do with Atwater’s grapes.

Atwater is one of the more beautiful settings in the Finger Lakes. Stunning lake views, beautiful plantings, a restful deck overlooking the lake, and a well-designed, post-and-beam tasting room.  The wines were also quite good, though not as distinctive as Aliperti’s offerings at Billsboro. The most striking differences were in the Chardonnays;  Atwater’s was unoaked, crisp, with green apple flavors while Billsboro’s were 30% oaked with velvety butterscotch notes.  This is one talented winemaker, and you won’t go wrong buying wine from either of his shops. Here's what we bought:

• Vidal Blanc 2007 —  Grapefruit and limestone on the nose. Semi-dry but boy, is it a fruit bomb.

• Stone Bridge Red —  Unusual blend of Marechal Foch, Cab Franc, and Corot Noir. A delicious, mid-weight red with  vanilla and caramel knows and bright red fruit.

Where We Ate – Red Newt Bistro (Hector, NY) Careful VinoDuo  readers will have noticed an unusual lack of food commentary on this trip. Normally, where we eat is as important a decision as we’re we stay, and Lisa scours ChowHound for  in-the-know recommendations.   Had we stayed in Geneva we would have enjoyed  dinner at some of the region’s top destinations. But for all its charm, Penn Yan is not a foodie heaven.  At night, we ate simply and cheaply.

We did indulge in a marvelous lunch at Red Newt Bistro, the acclaimed restaurant at Red Newt Cellars  in Hector.  Chef Deborah Whiting is a committed locavore who finds almost everything she needs in the bounty of the Finger Lakes. With a big wraparound deck overlooking the vineyard, the Bistro was a welcoming respite from winery-hopping.

Oh, but wait… Red Newt is also a winery. So along with an open-faced portobello sandwich with plum chutney and fresh mozzarella (Gary) and the smoked turkey breast with avocado and cheddar (Lisa) we each ordered a tasting flight.  After all, you can’t go to a winery and not taste the wine!

Lisa ordered the “Search for the Perfect Rosé” flight,  with tastes from Anthony Road; Sheldrake Point Vineyard; and Red Newt’s own rosé.  I don’t know if they stacked the deck, but the two contenders couldn’t hold up to Red Newt’s 2008 Syrah/Cab Franc blend. Its pale pink color looks like a White Zin, but the luscious grapefruit on the nose and apricot on the palate were most sophisticated.

Since it was the middle of the day, Gary decided to go with the Dry White Flight. This time, the tastes were all Red Newt varietals. The Chardonnay was a light hay color with a butterscotch nose and bright, white grape juice flavors—delicious. Gary also loved the Yellow Jail blend, with its clean apricot and honeydew aroma and pink grapefruit taste.  Only the Sauvignon Blanc was a bomb. His tasting notes simply reads, “loser!”

After lunch there were two wineries to go: Chateau Lafayette Reneau and Hermann J. Wiemer.  The former came highly recommended; the latter was a late addition suggested by our B & B hosts. The Chateau disappointed in almost every way. The tasting room had a distinctly Western get up with way too many souvenirs. The palate cleanser was salted pretzel sticks (with wine?). And the wine?   The best we’ll say is that we’ve had far worse. 

Weimer, on the other hand, was a delightful surprise.  We were greeted by two very jolly women, who were holding a tasting directly in the winery. We tasted eight wines between us and it should come as no surprise that the Dry Riesling blew us away. Founder Weimer came from a German winemaking family; the current winemaker carries on the European tradition. We were also taken with the Reserve Chardonnay, which Gary said proves “that a good Chard can come from upstate New York.”  We walked out with both of those whites:

•  2007 Dry Riesling —  Bone dry;  crisp, clean with just the right amount of sugar and cream
•  2003 Reserve Chardonnay —  fuller-bodied, some cream, butter and a just a hint of oak

And with that, we headed back to Los Gatos and our new home away from home in the Finger Lakes.

        

Before moving any further with our wine diary, attention must be paid to the amazing Bed & Breakfast we stumbled onto in Penn Yan, Los Gatos. When our Geneva B&B didn't work out we scrambled to find another centrally located place to stay. Thumbing through tourist brochures and crazily navigating Trip Advisor and Hotels.com we found Los Gatos, called for a reservation, and breathed a sigh of relief when a friendly woman on the other line said she had a vacancy. We quickly checked out of the Chapman House and drove the 17 or so miles to Penn Yan, home to long-standing, but small communities of Amish, Mennonites, and, ironically, winemakers. The irony? The Amish and Mennonites don't drink, but many of them sure know how to grow grapes for their "English"  winemaking neighbors.

As we pulled into Los Gatos, we breathed a sigh of relief. After a sleepless night with train and truck noise, this lovely B&B. located on a quiet road, was a welcome sight. If you think of B&B's as creaky old homes with Laura Ashley prints, think again. Los Gatos is an up- to-date suburban spread, with stunning landscaping, a relaxing deck, a pool, and comfortable beds. It does have the requisite B&B cats, who were sweet and unobtrusive.

But the true stars of Los Gatos are the owners, Susan and Burney Baron. California refugees who moved to to the Finger Lakes in 2002, the couple have done just about everything right. Friendly but not intrusive. Knowledgeable but not  overbearing. Gracious, fun, and thoughtful. And oh yes, Burney is a phenomenal breakfast cook.  Peach Dutch Baby one morning; blueberry cheesecake pancakes the next. Even English muffins made from scratch.


Susan makes all the jams from local fruit and mixes three local grapes for a killer morning juice.  She even baked a peach pie and left it for us cooling on the counter.

Susan and Burney have been to virtually every winery in the Finger Lakes and could tell us which to visit and which to avoid. And when we came back each night trucking a box overloaded with local wine, they stored it all in their garage away from the 90° summer heat. The only complaints? No full-length mirror; a squeaky bedroom door; and no bedside table on one side. Not much to complain about, yes?

Gary has avoided B&B's during all of our travels; he's not one for chintz bedspreads, ancient plumbing, or breakfast gabbing.  But Los Gatos had him at hello. What started as a happy accident turned into the highlight of our trip (except for all that good wine.)  if you are headed out to the Finger Lakes for the wineries, the hiking, or for a weekend blissfully free of responsibilities, we can't recommend Los Gatos enough.

Okay, back to the wine on our next post.


                                  

        

On Tuesday our wine touring kicked into high gear. After dropping our bags in Penn Yann at Los Gatos B&B (more on this lucky find in tomorrow's post) we set our course for a whirlwind tour of the west side of Seneca Lake.  Our first stop was Fox Run Vineyards & Cafe, one of the best known wineries in the area, yet one of the least interesting. It seemed like  all the wines had too much slate, shale, and acid mixed in with the fruit.  We quickly departed and moved on to Billsboro Winery. 

Billsboro's owner/winemaker Vin Aliperti is also winemaker at the more established Atwater Winery. Vin is tremendously talented and his love for the craft shows in his products. Billsboro's wines were refined and delicious, particularly when accompanied by sourdough bread and delicious local English-style cheddar. We walked out with the best of the bunch:

• 2008 Dry Riesling — Terrific balance of fruit, acid, and residual sugar (1.2%)
• 2008 Chardonnay — Nice toasted oak nose w/butterscotch tones; just the right amount of cream on the palate

Our next stop took us to the (ghost) storied Miles Wine Cellars. Doug Miles co-founded the winery with his dad at this beautiful 200 year old Greek Revival home on the water that Doug has restored (with his own woodworking hands) to its original glory.  Doug and his wife (and the purported 40+ ghosts that inhabit the house) now run the winery.
 
    

We spent 90 minutes with Doug touring the home and the winery, and getting a full tasting.  We strongly recommend (and purchased)

• 2002 Milestone (Cabernet Franc, Merlot): Toasted oak, leather, tobacco nose with deep plum/blackberries and pepper. Smooth from start to finish.
• 2006 Chardonnay: Light, excellent balance of oak, fruit and acid.  Hint of cream.

Our plans changed when we were told to hit Red Tail Ridge Winery, so we headed on down the road to check it out.  They're in the midst of buiding a new LEED Certified production facility; it's close to completion and looks terrific. And the wine? Under the direction of winemaker Nancy Irelan, a former VP at Gallo for 20 years, it's mostly a work in progress, but we did purchase:

• 2007 Estate Grown Pinot Noir—  Light mocha nose with cherry concentrate overtones; made in the Burgundy style and the only Pinot we liked on the Finger Lakes.

The last stop of the day was also unplanned. Shaw Vineyard (namesake of master winemaker Steve Shaw) was a true find.  Steve's tasting room was built slowly and lovingly, just as he makes his wines. We were lucky to get a full walk-through of the entire lineup with Steve, who's something of a character. Lisa called him an iconoclast, which he took as a compliment.  Everything we tasted was outstanding and we walked out with a mixed case:

• 2004 Oaked Chardonnay—Toasted oak nose, vanilla and a hint of cream.
• 2007 Sauvingnon Blanc—Limestone and grass on the nose, juicy and flavorful, as close to NZ as we've found.
• 2006 Riesling—Apricot and honey without the sweetness.
• 2004 Merlot—Licorice with hints of leather & Cuban cigar on the nose.  Cherry-pepper palate with long finish.
• 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon—Cedar & vanilla on the nose. Pepper, vanilla and dark cherries on the palate
• 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon—Much like the 2003.  Not yet ready, but this will be a real winner in 12 months.

A note on the Finger Lakes: corn, corn, and more corn everywhere. Rolling farm land, Mennonite buggies, and knock-out vistas. Even if you're not a wine fan, you should visit here!

        

Skaneateles is big on beauty, short on wineries.  But we did stop in at Anyela's Vineyards on our way out of town. Suffice it to say there must be a reason Skaneateles is short on wineries. Anyela's has a beautiful post and beam tasting room with a wonderful view but the wines were, unfortunately, forgettable. Lisa noted the Dry Riesling had a "nose of lighter fluid," while Gary found "chemical compounds of unidentified origin" in the Pinot Noir.  Anyela's first production was in 2004; the vines are young; perhaps (we hope) they'll improve.

Next stop, the east side of Cayuga Lake and King Ferry Winery, producer of Treleaven wines. We'll write up our full tasting notes of all the wines we recommend from our Finger Lakes trip in a few weeks, but here's a quick re-cap of our favorite Treleaven wines.

• Dry Rosé 2008: comprised of 100% Cabernet Franc, this bursts strawberry on the nose and tastes like summer. Best with food, not as an aperitif.
• Meritage 2007: 61% Cab Franc, 28% Merlot, 11% Cab Sauv.; round, full flavor with cedar, blackberry, and pepper.

A few miles down the road from King Ferry is  Long Point Winery, where we had a long and successful visit with winemaker Gary Barletta. We first discovered Long Point during a trip to Albany, NY, where we tasted Barletta's killer 06 Zin.  We were anxious to find out how an upstate New York winemaker could grow warm-weather grapes so successfully. Turns out, he can't.  Barletta  sources his Zinfandel grapes from Lodi and Mendocino in California then produces the wine in New York. Barletta has a fascinating back story, which we'll cover in detail, but here's the wine we walked out of his winery with:

• Reserve Zinfandel 2006 — even better than the non-Reserve from that vintage
• Syrah 2006 — these grapes also flew in from CA but found a wonderful home in NY
• Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 — we didn't taste this but bought it site-unseen

Next stop...Geneva, home of Hobart William Smith college and another gorgeous lakefront.

Where We Stayed — Chapman House Inn
The Chapman House has location, charm, personality, and an amazing breakfast to offer guests. Built in 1802 and carefully, lovingly restored by the current owners/innkeepers, the Inn is directly across from Hobart William Smith and just blocks from downtown. What the Chapman House doesn't offer, however, is quiet.  Hard by the freeway, the trucks roared through our beautiful room all night. Innkeeper Steve said only a handful of guests had ever complained about the noise; indeed a mother-son duo at breakfast said they slept like babies (they're from Brooklyn...where noise is the norm, I guess.) 

So, if you're not noise-sensitive, by all means go to the Chapman House Inn. The service is warm and friendly, the rooms lovely, and the breakfast to die for.  For VinoDuo, it was too much to take. We reluctantly checked out and moved on to Penn Yann, to Los Gatos B&B. 

More tomorrow.

        

Road Trip!  We packed up the wagon with far more than we needed and headed out the Mass Pike to the Finger Lakes region of NY.  How smart of us, we said smugly, to drive instead of flying into tiny airports in tinier planes.  Ah, but then came the 1 hour backup in Auburn, MA (accident) and the 45 minute backup (accident) near Syracuse and we were cursing our stupid road trip decision. But by the time we hit Skaneateles (8 hours after we started) we were of good cheer and looking forward to four days of wine tasting in a gorgeous setting.

In between road accidents we stopped in the Berkshires at Baba Louie's, a funky pizza shop in Great Barrington. Sourdough crust is their claim to fame, and it didn't disappoint. The Melanzana Cardinale, with fresh mozzarella, eggplant, smoked gouda, and pesto was fantastic; even pizza-maker supreme Gary gave it a high rating.




The hour traffic snarl put us behind schedule for arriving in Skaneateles before sundown, so we ate and ran...a disappointment, since Great Barrington is the quintessential sweet yuppie  town.

Where we Stayed — Arbor House Inn
Skaneateles is one of those stunning summer destinations with grand old homes ringing a pristine waterfront...it reminded Lisa of Edgartown on the Vineyard. Broad sidewalks and ample shade trees grace the downtown, which abuts Lake Skaneateles. The town boasts the requisite cute stores and tourist traps, but also great coffee shops (blogging from one now—Creekside Books & Coffee), galleries, and artisan outposts.

Our B&B, Arbor House Inn, was 3 blocks from the center of town. Location trumped all; the room was slightly shabby, the breakfast mediocre, and the service somewhat rushed.  We were asked when we were checking out twice!  But...the bed was extremely comfortable and the room had DSL to keep us connected. At $135/night it was reasonable for the area but I'm not sure we would return. 

Today we're off to three wineries...Anyela's (in Skaneateles), King Ferry, and Long Point, both on the East Side of Cayuga Lake.

We'll report back tomorrow. 

        

When there’s not enough time and/or money to travel to an undiscovered (by VinoDuo, that is) wine region, the next best thing is visiting a wine bar with an interesting selection of lesser-known wines. In late spring we were fortunate to land in Weston, Florida to celebrate cousin Jordann’s bat mitzvah.  By coincidence, we were also celebrating our anniversary, when two aging Unos became VinoDuo, forever united in our love of wine. Never ones to miss an opportunity to continue a celebration, we found our way to Libation that evening to toast Jordann and 12 years of marital bliss.

Libation is a hybrid wine bar and wine shop. All of the wine for tasting is housed in automated dispensers, where you can fill up with a 2-ounce taste, a half glass, or a full pour. Organized by country and region, the offerings were heavy on Spanish and Italian varietals with a good selection of wines from Latin America. The short but nicely edited Tapas menu included an olive medley, smoked salmon, and garlic shrimp. Well fed after the bat mitzvah, we ordered a simple cheese plate to complement our wine flights.

What We Tasted
Libation offered no suggested flight pairings and no tasting notes for any of the offerings—two strikes, in our opinion.  So we were on our own and selected tastings we thought might go together well. Our pairings were not terribly successful, but two wines emerged as favorites, one white, one red.

Lisa’s Flight – Whites

• Valdelainos Verdejo 2007 — This pale, straw-colored wine from the Andalusia region of Spain got a big thumbs down from Lisa and Gary. “Wine flavored water,” was Lisa’s assessment. “Wet rocks,” grumbled Gary.  And yet the Wine Enthusiast gave it 90 points—go figure.
•  No Time Viura-Chardonnay 2007 — 80% Viura and 20% Chardonnay, from the In Navarra region of Spain.  Light pale straw in color with honeysuckle and melon on the nose. Very light and flavorful.

Lisa’s Flight—Reds

• Cigarzin,Cosentino Winery, Napa 2006— Made from 80% old vine Zin. The name is a little precious and, in fact, the nose is not so much cigar as light pipe. This was a rich, zingy, chocolate flavored Zin not peppery, but not bitter either. Plenty of deep red fruit.
• XYZin, 2006 —  Compared with the Cigarzin, this is a real Zin; super jammy with deep red fruit and a hint of smoke.

Gary’s First Flightt

• Vina Chocalan Carmeniere, 2007 — From the Maipo Valley of Chile; this had a spicy, blueberry nose with chocolate and blueberry flavors, highlighted with caramel and cocoa. Nice long finish. Lisa’s comment: peppery nose x three; taste of caramel and cheesecake.  Clearly a winner in our book.
• Achával Ferrer Malbec Mendoza, 2007 — Yet another Malbec from the Mendoza region of Argentina.  An intense nose with blueberry and blackberry, but a disappointing taste. The ‘07 is not ready and needs another year or so in the bottle to gain balance

Gary’s Second Flight

• 14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington 2006 — Grapes were sourced from vineyards throughout Washington State.   Earthy nose, some herbs and a hint of caramel.  Taste of caramelized cherries and chocolate, without the sugar overload.
• Domenico Clerico Barbera D’Alba Trevigne 2005 – Aromas of anise and leather.  On first taste we found it very full flavored, with earthy overtones and bright cherries.  Dry finish, which disappointed Gary.  Good balance of fruit and tannins and could age well. Lisa thought the wine had a nice clean nose, with depth of flavor and hints of leather. After sitting in the glass for 20 minutes, the wine opened up and was more rustic, but refined.

Eight tastes, two winners: Vina Chocalan Carmeniere and the No Time Viura-Chardonnay.

Libation, The Love of Wine
Weston Town Center
1722 Main Street
Weston, Florida

        

VinoDuo has called Lexington home for 13 years. We’ve been traveling across the country to wine regions for just as long. So how did we miss Turtle Creek Winery, which lies not 15 minutes from our home in the unlikely wine region of Lincoln, MA? An affluent, almost-rural community best known as the home of the marvelous DeCordova Museum, Lincoln will never be mistaken for Paso Robles or Walla Walla.  But somehow, winemaker Kip Kumler has coaxed truly fine wine out of the suburban Massachusetts soil.

The 10-year-old winery produces about 1,000 cases a year and does not have a public tasting room, which adds to the mystique. Turtle Creek’s 4,000 vines include Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Riesling, grown on the premises and on a site leased from the town of Lincoln. Kumler also purchases fruit from select grape growers in California and the Finger Lakes region of New York.

On one of the first hot, sunny Saturdays of this tepid New England summer, we signed up for a tour and tasting at Turtle Creek.  We pulled up to Kumler’s stunning estate at 4 PM, the sun beating down on the grapes, the flowers, and us (and eight other lucky souls.)  A management consultant in his former life, Kumler clearly relishes his new career as a gentleman winemaker.  He spoke passionately and in some detail about the science and technology behind crafting world-class wine in a cold climate.  For Gary, the talk was illuminating. For Lisa, melting in the afternoon sun, the cool darkness of the barrel room beckoned.



Before we reached the tasting room we got an up close tour of the winery. Kumler spoke with pride about the international terroir of each piece of winemaking equipment, putting in a plug for globalization as he pointed out state-of-the-art equipment from Europe, Asia, and the Americans.  Resembling a very cool, high-tech science lab, Turtle Creek’s winery confirms that Kumler has put more than his heart and soul into the wine…he’s invested quite a lot of money, too.  Lucky for him—and for wine lovers – his investment has paid off handsomely, as we discovered when we at last entered the tasting room.

Cut to the Chase — What We Bought

Dry Riesling 2006    $16
The grapes come from Sheldrake Vineyard in the Finger Lakes, where VinoDuo is heading on vacation in late August. Will stop in and say hello to the Riesling grapes, which will make their way down the Mass Turnpike to Lincoln after the next harvest. Turtle Creek’s dry Riesling was fresh, clean, with flavors of grapefruit and tart apple. Kumler released the wine in September 2008 after 10 months in stainless and a year in the bottle. He produced just 624 bottles; we feel lucky to have snagged one of them.

Estate Cabernet Franc Conservation Hill 2007    $25
Turtle Creek produces two Cab Francs, one with grapes from the Russian River Valley (CA) the other from Conservation Hill in Lincoln, MA. Despite our locavore leanings, we fully expected to prefer the California vintage. We were wrong. The Estate bottled Cab Franc was an absolute winner. Deep, refined, with flavors of chocolate and caramel, some pepper, and of course more asset given its local provenance. Kumler blends in 5-10% West coast grapes, ages the wine 13 months in French oak, and lets it rest for four months before releasing.  Just 240 bottles of this fab Cab Franc were produced.



What Else We Tasted
Kumler put out quite a spread for this seven-wine tasting, with some marvelous farmstead cheeses and an assortment of freshly baked breads to complement the wine. We’re told that’s not an everyday occurrence, but there were some special guests in our tasting, so we benefited from their presence.

Estate Chardonnay, Conservation Hill 2008    $25
This locally grown Chard at a lovely honeysuckle knows and a beautiful, light hay color. But we found it rather thin and lacking in discernable flavor.

Sauvignon Blanc 2008        $16
All Lisa needed to know about this Sauvignon Blanc was that the grapes came from Napa. An avowed New Zealand SB groupie, she has yet to find a domestic version to match the great Down Under style. Gary and Lisa both picked up some grass on the nose and some peach on the palate, but for Lisa, there was no characteristic NZ zing; Gary liked this wine.

Chardonnay 2008    $16
These grapes came from the Carneros region of Napa and the wine is no worse than the wear for the long trip. At least three shades darker than the Estate Chard, we found it to have a nice clean flavor, with apples and pears and a hint of cream. Delicious!

Zinfandel 2006        $16
No, Kumler has not found a way to grow Zin in the Boston suburbs.  He imports his grapes from Wildwood Vineyards in Amador County, California.  But don’t expect a big fat juicy, chewy, smoky Zin.  As the Turtle Creek website puts it, this Zinfandel is “idiosyncratic, with half of the grapes left on skins, after fermentation, for two months.”  So you lose color, and you lose some POW!  What you gain is some earthiness and, according to Kumler, elegance.  Well, call us rubes, but if we wanted elegance we would order a Pinot Noir.  We do look forward with great anticipation to the 2009 Zin, which Kip says will have more depth of color and more Zin impact.

Cabernet Franc 2007        $20
This is the Cab Franc from California grapes we expected to prefer over the local contender.  And while we voted with our pocketbook, buying two bottles of the Estate wine, we found this version perfectly drinkable. A beautiful deep color, with prominent cherry flavors and a hint of anise, the wine had nice tannin structure and a long finish.

If you live in Boston, we urge you to e-mail Turtle Creek Winery and make a reservation  for a tour and tasting—they happen most Saturdays and Sundays at 4 PM.  Or you can visit the website for a listof area wine shops that sell some or most Turtle Creek varietals.

If you don’t live in Massachusetts, you may be SOL, as the winery lacks distribution beyond the Bay State.  So come for a visit. Lincoln is a beautiful town, and when you drive by Lexington, thank VinoDuo for filling you in on this small, ambitious winery.

                                                                                    

        

VinoDuo's got a crush on La Linda, a sweet (but not too sweet) juicy, cranberry-colored  Rosé Malbec (2008.) Our friends at Crushed Grapes in Lexington introduced it to us and we've gone back three times to buy more.  Always partial to the full-bodied Malbec from Mendoza, we'd never tasted a Rosé of the varietal. Turns out it lacks almost everything we love about Malbec—smokey, sultry, deep—but it has its own sly charms. A  strawberry nose gives way to a dry but, fresh flavor. Lots of fruit but not in your face.

We introduced it to friends last weekend and they flipped for it too. It was a lovely complement to a mild cheddar, eggplant dip, and tapenade served on the deck. For dinner (grilled sirloin) we switched to "real" Malbec—the Trapiche Broquel.

For $12, La Linda's  a fabulous summer wine. We're keeping a bottle chilled  just in case the sun actually comes out in MA sometime this month.

        

We look forward to the Spirited Gourmet’s (Winchester, MA) Spring Grand Tasting with great anticipation. It’s our first good chance to discover wines that we can coronate as our summer selections. You need good wines for barbeque, desserts, and for just plain social sipping on a lazy sunny day. This year the Spirited Gourmet featured another bumper crop of good summer selections.  Below is our review of the four tasting stations and the high points. But first…cut to the chase.

What to Buy
Whites
•    N.V. Schoenheitz Edelzwicker                    $15
•    2007 La Poule Blanche Vin de Pays           $11

Reds
•    Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé  2008                       $11
•    2005 Mendel Unus Mendoza (Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon)         $47
•    2006 Raw Power Shiraz, Australia                                                 $13

Table One

• 2003 Ronchi Barbaresco—This wine is intense with a deep cherry, licorice nose and delicious spicy plum-currant palate.  The tannin structure leads to an extra-long finish, with some dryness.  This would be a perfect match for a delicious dry-aged rib eye steak on the grill. While a bit on the expensive side (@ $45), this is definitely a wine that you’ll want to serve your in-laws at the Father’s Day barbeque!
• Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé 2008—The epitome of a great summer sipper and, at $11, a VinoDuo best buy!  Made of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah this light ruby-colored Rosé is a perfect match for Spicy Tuna Maki rolls or mild cheese and crackers. We bought a bottle at the Spirited Gourmet and put our tasting notes to the test the following week at Sushi Yasu in Waltham. This little-known BYOB sushi joint is our favorite local haunt and the Rosé held up beautifully with the Ikura, spicy tuna, and tempura rolls. 
• 2005 Mendel Unus Mendoza (Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon)—Gary’s initial comment was “Awesome!”  With deep, dark concentrated blueberry and blackberry on the palate this wine is intense with terrific round tannins and a lasting finish.  This is yet another great wine to add to your summer barbeque list of fine beverages!  At $47 it’s a bit pricey, but it is a special wine that’s ready to drink now.
  

Table Two

• N.V. Schoenheitz Edelzwicker—A very good example of the fine white wines from the Alsacian region.  Some of the grapes blended into this wine are relatively new to us (Chasselas, Sylvaner, and Auxerrois) while others are quite familiar (Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris & Gewurztraminer).  This wine is pale yellow in color with a nice bouquet on the nose.  We liked this wine’s clean palate and found it to be simply delicious.  Whether sipping it on the deck with friends or pairing it with cheeses or even Thai food, the Edelzwicker is on our buy list at $14.99.
• 2007 Girasole Pinot Noir Mendocino—Yes! You can still get a nice Pinot Noir for less than $20!  The fruit forward style of this organic wine was yummy.  The folks at OZ Pacific Wines (local distribution) suggest that the wine is ready now (possibly due to the organic nature of the wine).  At $15.99, this is a bargain!
  

Table Three

• 2007 La Poule Blanche Vin de Pays—Excellent!  We just loved this wine.  Its peach and honeysuckle nose is complemented by a vanilla-mineral palate that will accompany many of your summer weekend lunch favorites.  At $10.99 this is definitely on our by list.
• 2007 Le Coq Rouge Vin de Pays—Nice fruit forward style; reminded us of a good burger wine, and at $10.99, it’s priced right!
  

Table Four

• 2006 Raw Power Shiraz, Australia—($13) Excellent! Chocolate blueberries and blackberries! Just an amazing value that gets even better with decanting.  This is our pick of the tasting!

Other wines worthy of mention

• 2005 Mas d’en Compte Priorat—($45)
• 2007 Clair Pinot Noir, Marlborough—($20)
• 2006 Murray Syrah Central Coast—($19)

        

It’s always fun to walk into an unfamiliar wine shop and find something more than the usual suspects.  Our latest journey took us down Route 6A in Cape Cod to the Dennis Public Market. The DPM is an icon in Dennis Village, known for fresh produce, gourmet meats and a friendly approach to doing business.  Our visit revealed that all these things were true. But the Yelp-ers and other reviewers seem to have bypassed the wine department (no one writes about it!).  Specializing in low to mid-priced selections, perhaps the wine snobs took a quick look and left.  Not us.  We found the wine department to downright homey!

Gary asked the gentleman stocking the shelves about the 2006 Andeluna Malbec (Winemakers Selection, Tupengato-Mendoza, Argentina). He said that he’d never tried it, but “this Scottish fella that fishes around here, swears by the stuff.”  Well, with a story like that and a price just right for the recession ($10.99), he had to bite.

The Andeluna Malbec was terrific…equal to wines costing double or more!  The aromas of deep black berries, leather and tobacco permeate the nose and the palate is full & smooth with hints of black currant, cherries and dark unsweetened chocolate.  Repeated our tasting the second day and the wine was even better! The is going on our ‘best buys’ list.

And when you're on the Cape, don't miss out on the Dennis Public Market, 653 Main Street, Dennis, MA 02638. 508-385-3215

        

VinoDuo has joined the Open Wine Consortium, kind of a Facebook for the wine industry and wine lovers.  We've started a fun discussion and thought our VinoDuo fans (all 2 of you!) might want to join in.  Titled "If you were a wine, what would you be?", it's based on those ridiculous Facebook fads going around, like "Take this test to see what historical figure you'd be."  But of course our discussion doesn't require a test...just think about your personality traits and what wine you share them with.

Lisa started the discussion proclaiming she's a Zin. Definitely not subtle. Bright, energetic, but sometimes a bit TOO pushy. Spicy, but, yes, acidic at my worst. Complex, but approachable. And mysterious. Is Primitivo really a Zin? Is Lisa really as she seems?

If you're inclined, go to www.openwineconsortium.org, sign up, and off you go.  The link to the Forums is below.


http://www.openwineconsortium.org/forum/categories/2000748:Category:21/listForCategory

        

Work and play took VinoDuo on the road in February and March, with week-long stops in Puerto Rico (vacation) and Half Moon Bay, CA (work for Lisa, a bit of both for Gary.)  While Puerto Rico is better known for its rum, we managed to find a few wine selections we're happy to recommend (and a few that we hope to never taste again!)  California is, of course, wine central. Our stay at The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay presented an overflow of pricey but excellent tastes.

We'll start with Puerto Rico...

Stop 1 — El Conquistador Resort, Fajardo, PR
This sprawling, 1,000-room resort on Puerto Rico's Atlantic coast is not typical vacation fare for us.  We tend to gravitate towards either small hotels or private home rentals.  But the price was right and after a difficult few months, we thought a resort where someone is at your beck and call made sense. The resort is spectacularly set, high on a cliff overlooking the ocean, with Vieques and Culebra in the near distance.  Our home base at the Marina gave us a birds-eye view of the water and some lovely mini-yachts.

On our first night, we sat on the deck listening to Arturo Sandoval and Frank Morgan on our iPod, warm breezes gently...oh, wait, is Gary wearing a heavy sweatshirt?  What's up with that?  Poor guy was chilly.  Anyway, bundled up, we listened to jazz, munched on Carr's water crackers and Laughing Cow cheese (yup, all the little shop had)  and shared a bottle of Norton Malbec 2007.  Lisa was grooving on the romantic setting, Gary on the fact that one of the yachts had LED lighting.

We've had the Norton a few times before and considered it an Old Reliable.  Lisa deemed this bottle "perfect." Gary, however, said it tasted like soured cherries. Might have been the chill in the air that turned him grumpy.

Later that week we bought a bottle of Santa Julia Torrontes 2006, aka nectar of the gods. A knock-out aroma with hints of fresh peaches and honeysuckle and a juicy, bright flavor. Soft edges, not too sweet, with a clean finish.  We drank it like Kool Aid (we weren't driving or operating heavy machinery, so what the heck?) and, at $7 a bottle, it would go in my lunchbox thermos every day. Delightful, uncomplicated...the ultimate deck wine.  If you're looking for subtle, this is not your wine.  If you're looking for a wine to pair with Szechuan spicy chicken, this IS your wine!. (NOTE: Torrontes is yet another fabulous grape from Argentina...the most planted white in the Mendoza region.)

Stop 2 — El Convento, Old San Juan, PR
San Juan is one of our favorite cities. Great for walking, shopping, eating, and water-gazing, all with a Latin vibe and a largely English-speaking population (at least those who cater to tourists.)  Old San Juan boasts all of the city's attributes with the added advantage of knock-out architecture and history. We've spent days just wandering the narrow streets, deciding which pastel color we'll paint our stucco townhouse once we move there. (it's a great place to dream, obviously.)

Our three nighs at the El Convento brought us smack in the middle of the old city, in a spectacularly renovated old convent that now hosts far-from-sacred touristas. We didn't eat at the hotel, but the lovely patio bar Cana beckoned for dessert. The hotel's web site says that Cana is "hip and upscale" and attracts a "sharply dressed crowd."  So what were we doing there? Guava cheesecake, baby. An absolute killer dessert.  Lisa and Gary split a slice and ordered two distinctly different wines to complement it.

Gary ordered the Joffre + Hijas Grand Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Argentina) was inky black with a nose oozing leather, tobacco, and cassis. The taste...powerful.  "Blew me away...wow!" was Gary's academic assessment. While the Cab would clearly benefit from a pairing with a great rib-eye steak rather than a sweet dessert, its clarity and balance shone through.  Lisa deemed it an "unCab Cab," which for her is a compliment.

Lisa washed down the guava cheesecake with with a La Flor Malbec Rosé 2008 (Argentina.) This pomegranite colored rosé was bright, crisp, and a pleasure to drink. It lacks the earthiness and character of a typical Malbec, but brings robust berry flavors and a touch of peach. Lisa called it "fun in a glass."

Four wines, three raves.  Not bad for a week on a rum-drenched island. Next up...Half Moon Bay.