VinoDuo's got a crush on La Linda, a sweet (but not too sweet) juicy, cranberry-colored  Rosé Malbec (2008.) Our friends at Crushed Grapes in Lexington introduced it to us and we've gone back three times to buy more.  Always partial to the full-bodied Malbec from Mendoza, we'd never tasted a Rosé of the varietal. Turns out it lacks almost everything we love about Malbec—smokey, sultry, deep—but it has its own sly charms. A  strawberry nose gives way to a dry but, fresh flavor. Lots of fruit but not in your face.

We introduced it to friends last weekend and they flipped for it too. It was a lovely complement to a mild cheddar, eggplant dip, and tapenade served on the deck. For dinner (grilled sirloin) we switched to "real" Malbec—the Trapiche Broquel.

For $12, La Linda's  a fabulous summer wine. We're keeping a bottle chilled  just in case the sun actually comes out in MA sometime this month.

        

We look forward to the Spirited Gourmet’s (Winchester, MA) Spring Grand Tasting with great anticipation. It’s our first good chance to discover wines that we can coronate as our summer selections. You need good wines for barbeque, desserts, and for just plain social sipping on a lazy sunny day. This year the Spirited Gourmet featured another bumper crop of good summer selections.  Below is our review of the four tasting stations and the high points. But first…cut to the chase.

What to Buy
Whites
•    N.V. Schoenheitz Edelzwicker                    $15
•    2007 La Poule Blanche Vin de Pays           $11

Reds
•    Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé  2008                       $11
•    2005 Mendel Unus Mendoza (Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon)         $47
•    2006 Raw Power Shiraz, Australia                                                 $13

Table One

• 2003 Ronchi Barbaresco—This wine is intense with a deep cherry, licorice nose and delicious spicy plum-currant palate.  The tannin structure leads to an extra-long finish, with some dryness.  This would be a perfect match for a delicious dry-aged rib eye steak on the grill. While a bit on the expensive side (@ $45), this is definitely a wine that you’ll want to serve your in-laws at the Father’s Day barbeque!
• Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé 2008—The epitome of a great summer sipper and, at $11, a VinoDuo best buy!  Made of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah this light ruby-colored Rosé is a perfect match for Spicy Tuna Maki rolls or mild cheese and crackers. We bought a bottle at the Spirited Gourmet and put our tasting notes to the test the following week at Sushi Yasu in Waltham. This little-known BYOB sushi joint is our favorite local haunt and the Rosé held up beautifully with the Ikura, spicy tuna, and tempura rolls. 
• 2005 Mendel Unus Mendoza (Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon)—Gary’s initial comment was “Awesome!”  With deep, dark concentrated blueberry and blackberry on the palate this wine is intense with terrific round tannins and a lasting finish.  This is yet another great wine to add to your summer barbeque list of fine beverages!  At $47 it’s a bit pricey, but it is a special wine that’s ready to drink now.
  

Table Two

• N.V. Schoenheitz Edelzwicker—A very good example of the fine white wines from the Alsacian region.  Some of the grapes blended into this wine are relatively new to us (Chasselas, Sylvaner, and Auxerrois) while others are quite familiar (Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris & Gewurztraminer).  This wine is pale yellow in color with a nice bouquet on the nose.  We liked this wine’s clean palate and found it to be simply delicious.  Whether sipping it on the deck with friends or pairing it with cheeses or even Thai food, the Edelzwicker is on our buy list at $14.99.
• 2007 Girasole Pinot Noir Mendocino—Yes! You can still get a nice Pinot Noir for less than $20!  The fruit forward style of this organic wine was yummy.  The folks at OZ Pacific Wines (local distribution) suggest that the wine is ready now (possibly due to the organic nature of the wine).  At $15.99, this is a bargain!
  

Table Three

• 2007 La Poule Blanche Vin de Pays—Excellent!  We just loved this wine.  Its peach and honeysuckle nose is complemented by a vanilla-mineral palate that will accompany many of your summer weekend lunch favorites.  At $10.99 this is definitely on our by list.
• 2007 Le Coq Rouge Vin de Pays—Nice fruit forward style; reminded us of a good burger wine, and at $10.99, it’s priced right!
  

Table Four

• 2006 Raw Power Shiraz, Australia—($13) Excellent! Chocolate blueberries and blackberries! Just an amazing value that gets even better with decanting.  This is our pick of the tasting!

Other wines worthy of mention

• 2005 Mas d’en Compte Priorat—($45)
• 2007 Clair Pinot Noir, Marlborough—($20)
• 2006 Murray Syrah Central Coast—($19)

        

It’s always fun to walk into an unfamiliar wine shop and find something more than the usual suspects.  Our latest journey took us down Route 6A in Cape Cod to the Dennis Public Market. The DPM is an icon in Dennis Village, known for fresh produce, gourmet meats and a friendly approach to doing business.  Our visit revealed that all these things were true. But the Yelp-ers and other reviewers seem to have bypassed the wine department (no one writes about it!).  Specializing in low to mid-priced selections, perhaps the wine snobs took a quick look and left.  Not us.  We found the wine department to downright homey!

Gary asked the gentleman stocking the shelves about the 2006 Andeluna Malbec (Winemakers Selection, Tupengato-Mendoza, Argentina). He said that he’d never tried it, but “this Scottish fella that fishes around here, swears by the stuff.”  Well, with a story like that and a price just right for the recession ($10.99), he had to bite.

The Andeluna Malbec was terrific…equal to wines costing double or more!  The aromas of deep black berries, leather and tobacco permeate the nose and the palate is full & smooth with hints of black currant, cherries and dark unsweetened chocolate.  Repeated our tasting the second day and the wine was even better! The is going on our ‘best buys’ list.

And when you're on the Cape, don't miss out on the Dennis Public Market, 653 Main Street, Dennis, MA 02638. 508-385-3215

        

VinoDuo has joined the Open Wine Consortium, kind of a Facebook for the wine industry and wine lovers.  We've started a fun discussion and thought our VinoDuo fans (all 2 of you!) might want to join in.  Titled "If you were a wine, what would you be?", it's based on those ridiculous Facebook fads going around, like "Take this test to see what historical figure you'd be."  But of course our discussion doesn't require a test...just think about your personality traits and what wine you share them with.

Lisa started the discussion proclaiming she's a Zin. Definitely not subtle. Bright, energetic, but sometimes a bit TOO pushy. Spicy, but, yes, acidic at my worst. Complex, but approachable. And mysterious. Is Primitivo really a Zin? Is Lisa really as she seems?

If you're inclined, go to www.openwineconsortium.org, sign up, and off you go.  The link to the Forums is below.


http://www.openwineconsortium.org/forum/categories/2000748:Category:21/listForCategory

        

Work and play took VinoDuo on the road in February and March, with week-long stops in Puerto Rico (vacation) and Half Moon Bay, CA (work for Lisa, a bit of both for Gary.)  While Puerto Rico is better known for its rum, we managed to find a few wine selections we're happy to recommend (and a few that we hope to never taste again!)  California is, of course, wine central. Our stay at The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay presented an overflow of pricey but excellent tastes.

We'll start with Puerto Rico...

Stop 1 — El Conquistador Resort, Fajardo, PR
This sprawling, 1,000-room resort on Puerto Rico's Atlantic coast is not typical vacation fare for us.  We tend to gravitate towards either small hotels or private home rentals.  But the price was right and after a difficult few months, we thought a resort where someone is at your beck and call made sense. The resort is spectacularly set, high on a cliff overlooking the ocean, with Vieques and Culebra in the near distance.  Our home base at the Marina gave us a birds-eye view of the water and some lovely mini-yachts.

On our first night, we sat on the deck listening to Arturo Sandoval and Frank Morgan on our iPod, warm breezes gently...oh, wait, is Gary wearing a heavy sweatshirt?  What's up with that?  Poor guy was chilly.  Anyway, bundled up, we listened to jazz, munched on Carr's water crackers and Laughing Cow cheese (yup, all the little shop had)  and shared a bottle of Norton Malbec 2007.  Lisa was grooving on the romantic setting, Gary on the fact that one of the yachts had LED lighting.

We've had the Norton a few times before and considered it an Old Reliable.  Lisa deemed this bottle "perfect." Gary, however, said it tasted like soured cherries. Might have been the chill in the air that turned him grumpy.

Later that week we bought a bottle of Santa Julia Torrontes 2006, aka nectar of the gods. A knock-out aroma with hints of fresh peaches and honeysuckle and a juicy, bright flavor. Soft edges, not too sweet, with a clean finish.  We drank it like Kool Aid (we weren't driving or operating heavy machinery, so what the heck?) and, at $7 a bottle, it would go in my lunchbox thermos every day. Delightful, uncomplicated...the ultimate deck wine.  If you're looking for subtle, this is not your wine.  If you're looking for a wine to pair with Szechuan spicy chicken, this IS your wine!. (NOTE: Torrontes is yet another fabulous grape from Argentina...the most planted white in the Mendoza region.)

Stop 2 — El Convento, Old San Juan, PR
San Juan is one of our favorite cities. Great for walking, shopping, eating, and water-gazing, all with a Latin vibe and a largely English-speaking population (at least those who cater to tourists.)  Old San Juan boasts all of the city's attributes with the added advantage of knock-out architecture and history. We've spent days just wandering the narrow streets, deciding which pastel color we'll paint our stucco townhouse once we move there. (it's a great place to dream, obviously.)

Our three nighs at the El Convento brought us smack in the middle of the old city, in a spectacularly renovated old convent that now hosts far-from-sacred touristas. We didn't eat at the hotel, but the lovely patio bar Cana beckoned for dessert. The hotel's web site says that Cana is "hip and upscale" and attracts a "sharply dressed crowd."  So what were we doing there? Guava cheesecake, baby. An absolute killer dessert.  Lisa and Gary split a slice and ordered two distinctly different wines to complement it.

Gary ordered the Joffre + Hijas Grand Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Argentina) was inky black with a nose oozing leather, tobacco, and cassis. The taste...powerful.  "Blew me away...wow!" was Gary's academic assessment. While the Cab would clearly benefit from a pairing with a great rib-eye steak rather than a sweet dessert, its clarity and balance shone through.  Lisa deemed it an "unCab Cab," which for her is a compliment.

Lisa washed down the guava cheesecake with with a La Flor Malbec Rosé 2008 (Argentina.) This pomegranite colored rosé was bright, crisp, and a pleasure to drink. It lacks the earthiness and character of a typical Malbec, but brings robust berry flavors and a touch of peach. Lisa called it "fun in a glass."

Four wines, three raves.  Not bad for a week on a rum-drenched island. Next up...Half Moon Bay.

        

On a bone-cold day in January we made our annual pilgrimage to the Boston Wine Expo to soak up the bounty of warmer climates. With hundreds of producers and thousands of wines to sample, you have to pick your targets carefully. Spend too much time at the Italian pavilion and you might be snockered before checking out Spain or New Zealand.  Following our successful “divide and conquer” strategy, Gary and Lisa split up during the “for the trade” hours of 11 am – 1 pm and headed to the producers or countries we were most anxious to explore. Gary gravitated towards Italy, Spain and Argentina while Lisa went down under to Australia and New Zealand and then back to our hemisphere to Chile.

Those pre-show tasting hours are precious; once the hordes come in at 1 you get stampeded by wannabe “vinophiles” (overheard at the Peachy Canyon table—Gary did not have the heart to correct them.) Speaking of hordes—-there were less of them this year thanks to the recession. Fewer boutique and small-region exhibitors too (Long Island was MIA for the first time in memory.) And many of the better-known wineries left the good stuff home and poured mostly plonk. Still, we uncovered some gems amid the ordinary offerings, many under $20.

Before we review our Best in Show (see Chart, below), a few snarky words from Gary about Spain and Greece.  (To our dear friends Raul and Helen…your home countries make marvelous wine, we just didn’t find much at the Expo.  No nasty comments, please!)

Spain Navarra Pavilion
The Kingdom of Navarra dropped a ton of money at the Expo: full-page ad in the program; tasting seminars; and an enormous Pavilion with 21 wine producers. To be honest, most of the wines we tasted in this pavilion should have had the tent fall down on them.  The red wines mostly tasted odd with chemical aftertaste, vinegar overtones, and a sour-alum finish (yes, 'ouch!').  These wines were generally just too young to be tasted.

Fortunately, at the periphery of the Pavilion we were introduced to the winemaker/owner of Bodegas Tandem.  The 2004 Tandem Macula  is a big wine with wound-up tannins, oak, leather and deep plum overtones that has a long finish. While the 2004 is not quite ready for primetime, this $28 beauty (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot) will make an excellent addition to anyone's cellar (and it does need to lay down for a minimum of 6 months).  We note that fellow wine bloggers at Snooth.com rated the 2003 Macula three out of five goblets. We concur as we were able to sample the 2003 at the show.  The 2004 is way better and we rate it as an excellent value.

Wines of Greece
The red wines featured from Greece were also a grand disappointment with most reminding us of grape juice mixed with red wine vinegar.  The heavy overtones of acetone on the palate (just imagining what acetone tastes like) made us run from this section of the show floor.

        

The 2003 French vintage will long be remembered for the killing August heat wave and a difficult early harvest. Winemakers were certainly put to the test that year and the results have been uneven at best. At the Newport Mansions Wine and Food Festival late last year, however, we were fortunate to discover one stellar 2003 production— Chateau Lagrange Saint Julien 2003, a marvelous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot from the Languedoc region in the south of France.  Inspired by that find, Gary decided to forage around through a few of our favorite wine merchants for a 2003 Bordeaux to compare and contrast.

A local shop had an interesting red from Graves, an appellation best known for its whites located just outside the town of Bordeaux. The 2003 Clos Floridene, a Cab/Merlot blend, was well-priced at $25-$30 and sat by its lonesome on the shelf, calling to Gary. So he bought it.

We paired it with a bone-in lamb steak, simply broiled with just a bit of salt and pepper. We were immediately taken in by the Clos Floridene’s deep garnet color and striking tobacco aroma, with a hint of vanilla and deep black fruits. The taste? A perfect match with the lamb—lively cherry overtones with spice and leather (yes, Gary claims to have tasted leather!).  We later found the Clos Floridene matched up surprisingly well with Trader Joe’s Eggplant Garlic Spread.  

We can’t vouch for the whole of France 2003 but as we doggedly make our way through the country we will report back on our findings of that challenging growth year.

        

Like the rest of America, we couldn’t say goodbye to 2008 fast enough. Personally and professionally, VinoDuo had a tough year. So for New Year’s Eve, we decided to hunker down and welcome 2009 with classic comfort food—take-out Chinese, ice cream, and a whole lot of bubbly. Like many wine-lovers on a budget, we skipped Champagne and chose value-priced sparkling wines from Spain (Cava) and Italy (Prosecco.) From the spicy Hunan Shrimp and heavenly mango-laden Ma La Chicken to the swoon-inducing Giovanna mint chip gelato, we sipped and slurped our way through a pleasantly ‘buzzy’ New Year’s Eve.

The Cava: Familia Oliveda Brut Joven  $15     Great with Food!
The name Cava has Greek and Latin origins (and means “cave” in English,) but this charming sparkler is produced only in Spain, largely in the Catalonia region. By law Cava must be made with specific grape varietals in the "methode champenoise" style—the traditional French method of producing a sparkling wine by fermentation in the bottle. The Familia Oliveda Cava is made from primarily estate grown Macabeo, Xarel-o, and Parellada grapes—varietals previously unknown to VinoDuo.

So how did this stuff stand up to spicy Chinese? Fantastic!  We were truly thrilled by this inexpensive sparkling wine. The color is a bright, light shade of hay. Gary said that it was “crystalline with spectacular effervescence.”  The nose (as if this is at all important with sparkling wines) reminded us of clean, fresh wet limestone and grass. The palate was delicious with hints of Granny Smith apples, Anjou pears, and ripe nectarines.  There was a slight hint of residual sugar, minimal yeast, and just the right amount of dryness.

We couldn’t finish the bottle (yeah, we’re wimps,) so we once again toasted the new year on January 1. Lisa thought the Cava was even better the next day, with a subtle nutty flavor. For $15 this is a bargain!

The Prosecco: Loredan Gasparini Montello E Colli Asolani, NV    $18    Great for Sipping, Toasting, Sweets
Prosecco is Italy’s best-known answer to Champagne, though it is produced using the less expensive Charmat method and not the "methode champenoise" style.  By law, any wine marked “Prosecco” must be made from the grape that bears its name and is usually produced in the Veneto region.

We’ve enjoyed Prosecco over the years as an aperitif and great “toasting” wine for birthdays and other special occasions.  It pairs well with certain cheeses and sweets. Sadly, it is not a great match for Chinese food. The nose on this beautiful pale, straw-colored wine is minerally and clean, with hints of strawberries and lychee fruit.  But the semi-sweet flavor clashed badly with our spicy feast so we returned to the Cava and contentedly finished our meal.

Plates cleared and gelato in hand, however, we switched back to the Prosecco and closed out the celebration with an all-Italy dessert. There’s good reason why Prosecco has stolen our hearts as the base for Bellinis and Poinsettias. We’ll stick with those traditional pairings and turn to Spain for a sparkling wine that can stand up to Asian fare.

    

        

Have you ever gone to a restaurant and wondered how you would find that knockout wine you just had with dinner but had never heard of?  You go to your local wine shop, and they don’t even have the label, much less, the wine you’re looking for.  Well, during our gallivanting through the Newport Mansions Wine and Food Festival (ok, not quite a restaurant) Gary was invited into the booth of the Wilson Daniels wine distributors, where he was introduced to a number of wonderful, unknown (to him) wines. When we wrote our review of the Festival, we discussed the Coltasalla from Fattoria Castello di Volpaia (Sangioveto and Mammolo grapes) and raved about the quality and non-stop finish on this outstanding Tuscan red.  

But the true star of the Newport wine show was a Super Tuscan (in both meanings of that word) Castello Di Volpaia Balifico.  Gary’s first words after tasting the Balifico were “wow” and “magnifico!!”  (Not exactly Robert Parker expressions, but from the heart.)  Balifico is truly a great example of fine wine making, blending Sangioveto di Volpaia (a native clone) with Cabernet Sauvignon into a wine that’s characterized by its elegant, smooth palate and long finish. This deep ruby, mysterious wine has a nose combining some tar, blackberry, and blueberries. We tasted medium dark fruits, vanilla, and cedar notes and a long, satisfying finish.
        
After the show we had a heck of a time finding Balifico, despite its 90+ reviews from Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, and the like.  Nothing on the shelves, nothing in our regular wine shop’s database.  Fortunately, a new arrival on the Lexington wine scene, Crushed Grapes,
tracked it down for us and ordered a six-pack.  

Tonight we opened the first bottle of Balifico, hoping it tasted as good at home as it did at the show. We paired it with some Italian food from I-Chef, our local, family-style establishment in Arlington Heights.  The eggplant and chicken Parmesan is a “house” favorite and it paired beautifully with the wine. Even with this “down home” Italian fare, the Balifico transformed I-Chef’s food into a gourmet feast.  

This is easily the best Tuscan red we’ve had in while.  Its $40 - $45 price is well worth it and we suggest you make the effort to find it.

        

Gary and Lisa are old enough to remember when hotel dining in Boston meant Kon Tiki Ports at the Sheraton, the Last Hurrah at the Parker House, and Boodles at the Hilton.  While the latter two still soldier on catering to tourists and a smattering of locals, the dining scene at area hotels has morphed, Manhattan-like, into a foodies’ paradise. From Mooo at XV Beacon and Great Bay at the Commonwealth to Meritage at the Boston Harbor, some of Boston’s top restaurants are found at the city’s best hotels.

And now L’Espalier, one of Boston’s oldest high-end dining spots, has moved into the city’s newest high-rent hotel, the Mandarin Oriental. We had the pleasure of eating at the old L’Espalier exactly once, for a special family celebration. The food was extraordinary but the prices were prohibitive. So when the invitation arrived from Vini Portugal to attend a wine tasting dinner at the new L’Espalier, we RSVP’d in the blink of an eye.

Vini Portugal is a government trade association charged with promoting Portuguese wines both domestically and internationally. Their goal is to get wine lovers to think beyond Port when they think of Portugal.  That’s easier said than done in the VinoDuo household, where Gary is an avid student of Port but has had disappointing forays into the rest of the Portuguese wine catalogue. But given the rarefied surroundings of the event we gamely decided to give Portuguese wine another shot.

Arriving just in time for the wine dinner we sped through the Mandarin Oriental lobby with no time for gawking.  Our 30-second view, however, confirmed the chain’s reputation for stately opulence.  Lisa had just visited the New York Mandarin on business and thought the Boston property echoed its look and feel: sleek but refined; cool, not homey; a bit austere, perhaps.  Finding L’Espalier was a bit of a challenge, as the restaurant has its own entrance adjacent to the hotel. The route from the hotel lobby was poorly marked. After zigging and zagging down a number of hallways and walking by an open kitchen we were escorted to a generic private dining room with about 30 other local wine writers and industry professionals, including sommelier extraordinaire Cat Silirie and Legal Sea Foods’ wine master Sandy Block.

With 12 wines to taste over the course of the evening, we tried to sip judiciously, but after an hour or so (including 30 minutes of wine tasting with nary a cracker or bread slice) our table of jolly wine bloggers got a bit boisterous…in fact we were shushed by one of the Vini Portugal representatives. Note to the event planners: if you want your audience to be quiet, give them some food with the wine!

Cut to the Chase – What to Drink         
We’ll get to the dinner (which was outstanding and worth the $30 valet charge) in a moment. As for the wine, of the 12 served, we can recommend four.  Surprisingly, Gary and Lisa agreed on two of the wines, and each selected a third wine from the list.
               

Dona Maria Reserva, 2004        $40        THE WINNER         
Grapes: 50% Alicante Bouschet; 30% Syrah; 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Lisa and Gary selected this deep, smoky red as their number one pick. “Inky and mysterious”    
in the glass; “deep, intense oak and vanilla on the nose,” Gary noted. That intensity continued
from first taste to finish—deep black fruits, licorice, and a hint of chocolate. 

Alvarinho Deu la Deu, 2007        $12
Grapes: 100% Alvarinho
According to Gary this is a lovely, clean white wine, with the scent of “fresh, washed peaches.” Lisa picked up some vanilla on the nose. We both found it a well-balanced, easy to drink charmer.

Quinta da Murta, 2007    $18
Grapes: 100% Arinto
The tasting notes for Quinta da Murta proclaim its “exuberant nose,” to which Lisa responded, “Exuberant indeed!” This sharp, crisp white jumps out of the bottle with lots of mineral and citrus notes on the palate—a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc.

Andresen Royal Choice 20 year Tawny Port    $48
Grapes: 40% Tinto Roriz; 35% Touriga Franca; 15% Bastardo; 10% Tinta Barocca
Gary hoped for a terrific Port and he was not disappointed. He described the Andreson as “smoky, magical, a pungent nose.” He dreamed of pairing it with a flourless chocolate torte (although the chocolate bomb L’Espalier served certainly worked fine.) In summary—“Just great; where can I buy some?”

Now, about the Dinner
A few quibbles about the event and the room from Lisa, who’s planned her share of events and attended more wine tastings than she cares to admit.

• No spit jar on the table—how are we supposed to drink 12 pours and not fall over?
•  No crackers or bread on the table; in fact no food for 30 minutes after the tasting began
•  No explanation of the wine and food pairings
• Private dining room is awkwardly situated across from the kitchen—we could hear the clatter of plates and loud conversation all evening
  

The food, as noted at the outset, was exceptional.  Attendees were presented with a printed menu of three appetizers and three entrées.  We don’t care for oysters and aren’t brave enough to tackle veal sweetbreads, so Gary and Lisa chose the Foie gras terrine with concord grape foam and husk cherries for the first course. Aside from the bursting of the duck’s liver thing, the foie gras was delightful.  Like liquid silk—was this heavenly slice really a cousin of the chicken liver we eat at Passover?

Gary’s main course was Blue Foot chicken with baby Brussels sprouts and new potatoes; black truffle and roasted chicken reduction. And it tasted like…chicken!  Maybe a little better than the Empire we buy…surely those blue feet have something different to recommend them.  Lisa had the Almond crusted rack of Colorado lamb with pommes sarladaise; roasted figs; and eggplant caviar. Both entrees were rich but light; elegantly prepared and beautifully plated.

The true standout of the meal, however, was the cheese course. 
  
    A perfect little collection of Azeitao  cheese and puffy rounds of artisan bread. Azeitao is a sheep’s milk cheese from the mountainous southwest region of Portugal. It’s got a soft but not runny texture and a gorgeous smooth, almost grassy flavor. Lisa flipped for it and was delighted to learn that Formaggio Kitchen, the phenomenal cheese shop in West Cambridge, sells Azeitao for the luxe price of $25 for a half-pound.

Dessert was a luscious collection of small confections—the aforementioned chocolate bomb, delicate cookies, something with foam that escapes memory.

We zigged and zagged our way back to the Mandarin Oriental lobby and out to the valet stand.  At nearly 11 on a Thursday night, Boylston Street was hopping. Limos idled in front of the hotel; club kids walked around looking for the next stop—another reminder of how far Boston has come from the sleepy city that closed up for the night at 9 pm.




                  
              

        

Mendoza is Argentina's largest and most successful wine region, producing upwards of 70% of the country's total output. And when wine lovers think Mendoza, they think Malbec. We've swooned over some terrific Mendoza Malbecs in recent years, including Kaiken Reserve 2005, Alessandro Speri, Prodigo 2004, the Catena 2005 and its second label 'brother', the Alamos 2003. But just as New Zealand is no longer a one-trick Sauvignon Blanc pony, adding delicious Pinot Noir to its repertoire, Argentina doesn't live by Malbec alone.  We'd heard rumblings of fine Cabernet coming out of Mendoza and recently bought two $20 bottles from well-regarded producers to put the Cab to the test. As always, we  first tasted the wines without food, then paired them with complementary flavors—this time a spicy chicken sausage.

The Cheapo Challenge

• BenMarco 2006 Mendoza     The Winner
  
• Catena 2005 Mendoza         Also Very Good
  

BenMarco 2006 (85% Cab; 15% Malbec)   
When the wine buyer at Cambridge Wine & Spirits recommended the BenMarco, we thought we'd stumbled on a little-known gem.  Some research set us straight.  BenMarco is a big Mendoza label headed by Pedro Marchevsky, an almost mythic figure in the Argentine wine community, dubbed "one of the most educated, experienced viticulturists in Argentina (if not the world) by one ardent wine reviewer. Marchevsky toiled in other people's vineyards (including mega-producer Catena) before starting his own label, named (in Hebrew, no less) in honor of his father, Marcos. Marchevsky's wife Susana Balbo, another Catena grad, is BenMarco's talented winemaker.

Enough with the back story—how was the wine?  In a word, wow! From the gorgeous, deep red/plum color to the intense cherries on the nose and the full-bodied fruit flavors, this is a winner. Pre-food (and without much decanting) we noted a raisin flavor, but not much else. After 30 minutes, the Cab had opened beautifully and complex flavors emerged. Tobacco, licorice, wild and untamed.  Gary said, "this is surprising me by the minute."

Catena 2005 (100% Cab)
Catena is like the Mondavi of Argentina. A century of winemaking, four generations. Some great wine, some not so great. As we noted at the outset of this post, we're fans of the Catena and Alamos Malbecs and don't hold the family's regional domination against them. The Cab is quite good, but did not eclipse the BenMarco.

The Catena was deeper in color than the BenMarco, more dark ruby than plum. We didn't note any fruit on the nose, but did pick up some leather and licorice. The first taste brought a smokey flavor, with deep fruit—maybe blackberry. The second taste, with the chicken sausage, extended the smokiness and deepened the fruit. And yet, when it was time for a full pour, we both returned to the BenMarco. It was more balanced, had a longer finish, and, frankly, was more fun to drink.




    

        

VinoDuo had quite the weekend in late September when we headed a few hours south for the Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival. Hosted by the Preservation Society of Newport County, this year’s presenting sponsor was the Italian Trade Commission, which stocked the festival with offerings of food and wine from Milan to Sicily. As lovers of all things Italian, VinoDuo was thrilled to attend two of the weekend’s events: the elegant Wine and Rosecliff gala and the sprawling Grand Tasting, held on the seaside grounds of Marble House.

The Astors and Vanderbilts were likely spinning in their graves at the thought of the hoi polloi tromping through their beloved summer playground (though not their personal mansions) swigging wine and gobbling canapés. But even in the pouring rain, Newport was one swell setting for a celebration of the finer things in life.

Last year at this time we attended the Foxwoods Food & Wine Festival, and the contrast could not have been more starkly drawn. Mansion vs. casino. The sound of waves vs. the clang of slot machines. Billowing tents vs. boxy meeting room.  While the shows shared some of the same exhibitors, vendors, and presenters, the similarities stopped there. For our money (oh, wait, we didn't pay for either event)...well, if we had to buy tickets, we’d pick Newport in a heartbeat.

       
Cut to the Chase – What to Buy
Between Lisa and Gary we tasted close to 100 wines in two days…a Herculean feat (or should we say Caesarian feat in honor of our Roman hosts?)  While other countries were represented at the Grand Tasting we stuck to Italy, with France and Argentina sneaking in at the end with two big winners.

We’ve written up all of our favorites (see chart below), but following is a list of our “must buy” wines

• Masi Costasera 2004    Amarone    $48
• Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003    Sangiovese    $55
• Azienda Agricola Giovanni Dri, Rosso del Monte dei Carpini 2004    Schioppettino (80%); Revosco (20%    $45
• Le Calle Poggio d’Oro 2003 Montecucco DOC    Sangiovese    $25 - $30
• Castello Di Volpaia 2004 Costasella Chianti Classico Reserva    Sangioveto and Mammolo    $45
• Castello de Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico 2003    Sangiovese    $35
• Castiglione del Bosco Brunello Del Mantalcino 2003    Sangiovese    $30-$35
• Chateau Lagrange Saint Julien 2003    Cab Sauv; Merlot; PV    $50
• Bodega Catena Zapata Alta 2005    Malbec    $45

Download Our Full List of Recommendations

        

 Over the summer, VinoDuo saw a slight but entertaining film called Bottle Shock. The movie portrays a reenactment of the 1976 slaughter of French Chardonnay in a blind taste test by the upstart, unknown Napa Valley winery Chateau Montelena. The juried tasting event has come to be known as the "Judgment of Paris," and is credited with the launch of California as a respected wine region.  As “New World” wine enthusiasts VinoDuo has enthusiastically embraced California Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet. But the Chardonnay, broadly speaking, has not won our hearts. Too many are oak and creamy butter bombs, often lacking elegance and finesse.  

Yes, a few California Chardonnays have made our “Must Buy list,” including Matanzas Creek (thank you, Robin,) Williamson, and Merryvale. Walking out of Bottle Shock, we decided it was time to forage through our wine cellar and do a blind tasting of our own. We wondered…how would France fare against two American challengers in 2008?  

We held the “Judgment of Lexington” on the last night of summer, toasting a bittersweet farewell to our favorite season. To complement the Chardonnay we made Herb and Spice Roasted Chicken from The Wine Lover’s Cookbook (see recipe below). Gary brought up from the basement (where our oh so elegant wine cellar inhabits a crawl space) three 2005 Chardonnays, one from California, one from Long Island, and one from France. He quickly threw brown paper bags over the bottles, marked them A, B, and C, and the tasting was on.

                     

The Challengers
Only Gary knew the names of the three wines in competition…but neither of us knew which was A, B, or C. We had reviewed each favorably in the past two years.

Up for judgment were:
•    Chateau St. Jean, Sonoma County, 2005         $14.00 for the 2007
•    Waters Crest, Long Island, 2005                      $17.99 for the 2007
•    Robert Skalli, South of France, 2005                 $17.00 for the 2005

We began by tasting the wines “naked,” without food, then again with the succulent roast chicken, fresh sweet corn, and local tomatoes.

The Results
Vive la France!  More specifically, the Langudoc, where Skalli has multiple vineyards throughout the region. The Skalli Chardonnay was a unanimous winner, both with food and on its own. Chateau St. Jean placed second. We loved it on its own but found it overpowered the chicken. Former VinoDuo fave Waters Crest lagged behind.



Robert Skalli
The Skalli impresses from the get-go, with a beautiful light golden straw color and aromas of honeysuckle and a hint of citrus. At first taste we found the Chardonnay light but creamy, with limestone and just a touch of oak. It’s well-balanced and easy to drink.

At dinner, the Skalli really knocked us out. “This fits the food like a glove,” exclaimed Gary. “It doesn’t overpower it; just the perfect amount of flavor.” The chicken’s mustard and herb-infused coating brought out the Chardonnay’s rich flavors, just as the cookbook predicted!

Chateau St. Jean
If we had just stayed with the “naked” tasting, Chateau St. Jean might have edged out Skalli as best in show. On its own, it was everything a California Chard should be—full, flavorful, with a hint of oak. A lovely light straw color, we picked up a pleasant woody aroma, with plum and blueberry notes. Lisa found it “full, creamy…almost like dessert.” And therein lies the rub. When we sipped the Chateau St. Jean with the herbed chicken, the two tastes fought one another. The Chardonnay didn’t complement the meal, it overpowered it.

Waters Crest
We’ve been singing the praises of Jim Waters’ labor of love since we wandered into his tasting room/winery in a slightly industrial section of Long Island’s North Fork wine region. In June 2006 we wrote, “Owner/winemaker started Waters Crest in 2001 following his nightmarish experience as a volunteer fire fighter at the World Trade Center. We learned about the winery’s origins from Jim Waters himself, who took us on a tour of his production facility (which is, literally, in the back of the tasting room, which is in a strip mall!) and shared some promising 2006 releases with us—fresh out of the vat.”

We loved the 2005 Chardonnay and bought several bottles, which we’ve been steadily enjoying over the years. Maybe it had passed its “sell by” date in September 2008, but we were unimpressed with our tasting. Lighter in color than the French and California entrants, Lisa said it was “almost translucent.” We both picked up honeysuckled on the nose, and a touch of strawberry.  But we pronounced the taste “thin and uninteresting.”  Gary found an unpleasant limestone taste, which became more pronounced when paired with the chicken.



Herb and Spice Roasted Game Hen
(we adapted the recipe to 2 chicken breasts)

3 Cornish Game Hens or large chicken pieces
3 whole cloves garlic, peeled
2 large shallots, peeled and quartered
3 large sprigs fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 ½ tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 ½ tablespoons coarse-grained mustard
2 teaspoons fines herbes (we used tarragon, sage, and thyme)
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon fennel seed, crushed (we used anise)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon red pepper flakes


Preheat oven to 350 F. Place game hens in a large ovenproof baking dish. Place 1 clove garlic, several pieces of shallot, and 1 rosemary sprig into the cavity of each game hen. Rub ½ teaspoon salt into the cavity of the hens.

In a small bowl, combine mustards, fine herbes, paprika, fennel seek, pepper, red pepper flakes, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and whisk thoroughly. Coat game hens thoroughly with mixture.  Place in oven and roast for 1¼ hour or until juices run clear.

        

One of the perks of being a wine blogger are the invites to wine tastings closed to the riff-raff, er, general public. It’s even better when the tasting accompanies a meal at a swank restaurant. So when we were asked to meet Skalli Family Wine Americas winemaker Laurent Sauvage at a lunch and tasting at the Harvest in Cambridge, one of our favorite restaurants, we readily accepted. Monsieur Sauvage was touring the states promoting the import company’s portfolio of wine brands from the South of France, which were recently introduced to the U.S. market.

So there’s the dirty little VinoDuo secret…we’re schnorers (if you don’t know that classic Yiddish word, look it up.  It will come in handy to describe many people you’ll meet in your life.) Free food, free wine…we’re there.  But we can’t be bought!  Following is our objective assessment, warts and all, of the Skalli Family Wine Americas offerings.  

Must Buys
•    Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2005 (Sud de France)            $17
•    Clos Poggiale AOC Corse 2004                                     $30
•    Chateauneuf du Pape, Maison Bouachon 2005               $40



Whites
Fortant Chardonnay 2006 (Languedoc)     $8
A good value for Skalli’s entry-level brand, the Chard was light straw in color, immature on the palate; a bit green. Lisa found it crisp, light, and a little minerally; closer to a Sauvignon Blanc.  
    
Clos Poggiale 2005 (Corsica)                    $24
We discovered a new grape with this wine—Vermentino, which is found all around the Mediterranean region. Lisa was fooled by the "fabulous nose,” expecting a full-bodied charmer. But there was no payoff on the palate. Dull and uninteresting.  Gary noted a perfumed, floral nose. The palate was "food friendly” with honeydew and mineral but not worth the price.

BUY  Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2005 (Sud de France)        $17
The namesake brand is clearly superior to the other labels. Lisa pronounced it "marvelous!” and Gary concurred. Light pineapple scent on the nose, with vanilla and a hint of oak on the palate. Nicely balanced and elegant, it went particularly well with the Harvest’s chilled lobster. At $17, this goes on our “must buy” list.


Reds
Fortant Merlot 2006           $8
We picked up blackberry on the nose, deep black fruits on the palate, a full, silky mid-palate and dry finish. The wine had us until the finish—our American bias made us shy away from a puckery mouth at the end.

Fortant Cabernet Sauvignon         $8
Black current on the nose with typical Cab notes. As for the taste, just ok; maybe a great burger wine.

Skalli Pinot Noir 2006         $17
Spicy blueberry notes on the note. Good black fruit flavors, with a hint of anise and spice. Gary noted a touch of vanilla too. We found it a bit green—not a buy.

Skalli Cabernet Sauvignon 2005          $17
Powerful nose packed with fruit. We picked up flavors of blueberry and pepper. Thin, with a dry finish. Gary thought it had more promise than delivery.

BUY   Clos Poggiale AOC Corse 2004          $30
A terrific blend of Syrah (45%) and Sangiovese (or Nielluccio.) Gary wrote a big YES at the top of his tasting sheet. Made in the style of a Super Tuscan, it offered blackberry on the nose with good spice and luscious fruit on the palate. Silky, with a tremendous finish. We can't wait to buy it for our cellar, or just drink it up now!

Cotes du Rhone Maison Bouachon 2066        $17
A GSM (Grenache 60%; Syrah 30%; Mourvedre 10%) with a great mix of fruit and spice. Big fruit, some mineral, and some bite on the tannins. Lisa said it was jammy and marvelous; Gary passed.

BUY    Chateauneuf du Pape, Maison Bouachon 2005      $40
Gary found this wine a real winner. Plenty of concentrated fruit. Great with a juicy steak and a good value for a Chateauneuf, particularly given the sad state of the dollar against the Euro.

        

A year ago we celebrated our 10th anniversary in Scottsdale, AZ and became acquainted with the fruits of Arizona's Sonoita wine region, located in the southeast corner of the state. We were particularly smitten with the 2005 Dos Cabezas El Norte, a rich blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah & Petite Sirah. At our first taste, in the snazzy Kazimierz Wine Bar, Gary's tasting notes  start with "great nose, vanilla" and end with "find this wine!"  And we did find it, thanks to the winery's intrepid owner, who tapped his brother-in-law to drive up to Scottsdale and deposit a case at our hotel.

Last week we celebrated our 11th anniversary and for old times sake cracked open another bottle of the El Norte. We're relieved to report that a year later the thrill is not gone.  In fact, the 2005 has aged beautifully and is in the prime of life.  The color was deeper; the nose headier; the flavor richer; the fruit sweeter. Gary noted a warm caramel flavor—something that eluded us the first time. We giddily poured a full glass and toasted winemaker Todd Bostock for this killer red and his unheard of customer service in bringing these Easterners a case of his fantastic Western wine.

We can't recommend the 2005 El Norte enough and suggest you order it from the Dos Cabezas web site, since its distribution outside the winery is quite limited.

        

We were feeling “Cab-y” and looking for a great red meat recipe to pair with a still-young but aging Burgess Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Vintage Selection. The Wine Lover's Cookbook (Sid Goldstein, Chronicle Books 1999,)
the bible in the VinoDuo household for appropriate food and wine pairings, didn't disappoint. Sid offers interesting veal, lamb, and venison recipes but we were hankering for a juicy steak.

The Grilled Fillets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout jumped out at us. Eggplant is a particular favorite of ours. We grow it in the summer, buy it out of season all winter long, and love it grilled or roasted on Gary’s pizza. Off to Trader Joe’s for their buttery sirloin fillets from New Zealand and down to the cellar to retrieve the Burgess.

Gary bought the Burgess Cabernet a few years ago, relying on the vineyard’s reputation for well-made, reasonably-priced wines. The Wine Lover’s Cookbook promised that the “simplicity of the juicy grilled fillets showcases the intense fruit of a good, young Cabernet or lays the foundation for appreciation of an older, more mature wine as well. The eggplant ragout is a simple accompaniment that supports the pairing by offering the slight bitterness of eggplant to offset the tannin in the wine.” 

At first taste we noted that the Burgess had a good balance of fruit (blackberries and cherries) that didn’t hit us over the head, and a hint of chocolate. The wine delivered a nice finish with some tannic structure. When paired exclusively with the sirloin, the wine was a bit over-powering, with a dry finish on the palate. But with the eggplant and tomato ragout, the wine showed its true colors with round opulent tannins that left a lasting impression of this well made Cab.
While the wine could clearly age a few more years, it did show well with this dish.


Grilled Filets with Roasted Eggplant and Cherry Tomato Ragout


Marinade
5 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons dry mustard
Freshly ground black pepper


4 fillets mignons or sirloin fillets

Ragout
2 medium globe eggplants, cut horizontally in ½-inch slides
2 ½ tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt
½ cup chopped yellow onions
1 pound whole cherry tomatoes
2 teaspoons chopped roasted garlic (we used raw garlic)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tablespoon dried)
½ teaspoon fennel seed, toasted and crushed (we substituted anise)


To make the marinade, whisk all ingredients together in a small mixing bowl. Spoon over filets. Allow to marinate, covered in refrigerator, for 2 to 3 hours before cooking.

To make the ragout, preheat oven to 350º F. Lightly rub eggplant slices with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place eggplant in an ovenproof skillet or baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes. Chop into ½-inch cubes.

In a medium sauté pan or skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, until translucent. Add tomatoes, garlic, herbs, fennel seed, and eggplant and sauté for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Keep warm.

To cook fillets, prepare a hot charcoal fire (or your oven’s broiler.) When the coals are very hot, grill filets for 5 to 7 minutes per side, cooked medium-rare or to taste.

To serve, spoon ragout evenly onto plates with fillets on the side.

        

The Spirited Gourmet in Winchester held its semi-annual Grand Tasting on May 3 and we eagerly lined up to check out the 30+ offerings from seven local distributors. Far from presenting usual suspects and easy crowd-pleasers, the distributors challenged the crowd with lesser-known varietals and producers.  We drove in empty-handed and drove home with 17 bottles…a nice take for a brief afternoon.

Following are our favorite tastes.

Whites
D’Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne McLaren Vale, 2006        $17.99
A light, crisp summer pleaser from the Australian region better known for its Shiraz. We loved the apricot/peach flavors. We didn’t buy any but recall it fondly.

Guegen Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet, 2006    $29.99        Bought 1 bottle
This unoaked Chardonnay from Chablis struck Lisa as closer to a Sauvignon Blanc. Nicely balanced, crisp, with light fruit and slight minerality.

Ca ’Rugate Soave San Michele 2006        $13.99        Bought 2 bottles
A delightful Soave Classico, crisp and dry with a pale gold color. 100% from the Italian Garganega grape, a varietal unknown to us.

Nieto Chardonnay Mendoza, 2007        $10.99        Bought 2 bottles
We’ve fallen for Malbec from Argentina’s Mendoza region and now we’re hooked on this crisp but slightly creamy Chard. 

Macrostie Chardonnay Carneros, 2006    $25.99        Bought 1 bottle
Classic California premium Chardonnay. Full-flavored, buttery, oaky, wonderful (so says Gary…Lisa demurs.) 

Clos des Rochers Auxerrois Luxembourg, 2006    $16.99        Bought 2 bottles
We can’t pronounce the name of this grape (Auxerrois), and never knew Luxembourg produced wine. But that’s the joy of these wine tastings. Some know-it-all posted in Wikipedia that “Recent DNA fingerprinting suggests that [Auxerrois Blanc] is a cross between Gouais blanc and Pinot, the same ancestry as Chardonnay.” We found it a great crisp and clean summer white.

Lolonis Eugenia Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, 2002    $31.99        Bought 1 bottle
This sweetheart from Mendocino County, CA was everything a dessert wine should be—deep flavored, sweet, and smooth.


Reds

Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004    $32.99        Bought 1 bottle
Gary raved about this wine’s deep berry fruit-forward flavors and complex structure. This is a well-crafted wine, not a factory-made Chianti.

Righetti Ripasso Valpolicella, 2005        $14.99        Bought 2 bottles
An elegant, light-bodied wine with raisin, current, fig, and berry flavors. Gary’s salivating over this wine as we write it.

Secret de Campane Vin de Pays d’Orange, 2006    $9.99        Bought 2 bottles
If you’re looking for a summer cooler but white’s just not your color, try this light, slightly peppery Grenache blend from the south of France. Serve it cooled and have a great BBQ!

Bell Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, 2003        $44.99        Bought 2 bottles
A Bordeaux blend from California that knocked Gary out and made him exceed our usual spending limit. The 2003 vintage blends Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Petite Verdot Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.  It was round, and full, and plush…and tasted really expensive; a superior, super-premium Cab.  Take that, Caymus and Opus One!

        

We’re either gluttons for punishment or stubborn explorers, but after our less-than thrilling experience with Primitivo from the Puglia (or Apulia) region of Italy we went back for more. What was driving us? The memory of Flaio, a marvelous Primitivo we lapped up a year or so ago at Kouzina, a tiny neighborhood restaurant in Newton, MA. Gary diligently entered the name of the wine in his BlackBerry, where it was promptly forgotten.  But we resurrected Flaio last week and asked our friends at Busa Liquors in Lexington to order a couple of bottles. 

At the same time, Gary found two more Primitivos at a wine shop in Cambridge, one with the ridiculous name of Mommy’s Time Out, the other, Castello Monaci.  Both were 2006 vintage, as was the Flaio, so we conducted a three-way tasting over two days, one homemade pizza, and some tangy shrimp kabobs.



Cut to the Chase
The winner, by a mile (and $5) was the Castello Monaci Piluna 2006. At $13.99 it was clearly superior to the others in every way: style, complexity, structure, finish…a terrific value that goes to the top of our “must buy” for casual Italian and spicy seafood or chicken dishes.


Mommy’s Time Out 2006    $8.99
What is it with the cutesy names and labels?  First Layer Cake, now this.  The label is adorable—a corner bedecked with a chair, skirted table, and wine bottle, presumably waiting for the harried mommy who needs her wine.  (Gary takes the fifth on why he bought it…something about an employee recommendation)

The wine? Let’s just say mommy would need to be really stressed to enjoy it. It was thin, young, and a little spicy; admirable qualities in a date, but unremarkable in a wine.

Castello Monaci       $13.99
From first sniff to last taste, this is a terrific wine. Like the Zinfandel grape it’s related to, this Primitivo boasts tobacco and a hint of smoke on the nose. We picked up plum and blackberry, with some caramel and licorice in the complex flavor palate.

The awkward English translation on Castello Monaci’s web site says “part of the wine matures in differently toasted French barriques,” which we assume means some of the juice is aged in fire-dried French oak, the rest in stainless steel, which brings a welcome balance of flavor and makes for a smooth, elegant wine.

Flaio Primitovo Salento 2006    $7.99
So was the memory of the Flaio better than the reality this time around?  Yes…and no. After the wonderful complexity of the Castello Monaci we were initially disappointed with the Flaio. Lisa thought it lacked fullness and structure; Gary was less critical, finding it plump on the palate and full of plum and blackberry flavors.

On the second night, the Flaio redeemed itself. A spicy, peppery nose, full of terroir. The tannins had settled down, leading to a rounder, fuller flavor. Flaio must have a diligent U.S. distributor, because it shows up on wine lists at restaurants coast to coast.  At $7.99 a bottle (retail) and $8.00 a glass, restaurateurs are cleaning up with this low-priced pleaser.

        

A Vino Duo reader raved to us about a Primitivo he and his wife swooned over from the Puglia region of Italy so we set out to find it at our local wine shop. Primitivo is a southern Italian grape variety that is the 'kissing cousin' to Zinfandel. Gary and, especially, Lisa, are Zin fans, but had yet to find a Primitivo that matched Zin’s spice and charm.

Tracking down the Layer Cake Primitivo (2006) proved quite the challenge. ''It's like a cult wine," one shop owner told Gary. "We can't get it, and when we do, it flies out the door." The next shop didn’t have the Layer Cake Primitivo either, although the owner talked up the winery’s Shiraz. She also recommended an alternative Puglia Primitivo, A Mano, which we bought in hopes of going mano-a-mano ☺ with it and the Layer Cake

We finally tracked down the elusive but inexpensive ($15.99) Layer Cake at Blanchard's liquors in Jamaica Plain. Cases of the Primitivo lined the shelves but we limited our purchase to two bottles, figuring we could always head back for more if the wine lived up to its promise.

Armed with the 2005 A Mano and the 2006 Layer Cake (not apples-to-apples but the closest we could get) we set up a blind tasting. As often happens, Gary and Lisa had wildly different reactions to the wines on the first night, but came close to a consensus on night two.

Layer Cake Primitivo 2006 ($15.99)
For Lisa, the Layer Cake was all look and no show. A striking ruby red, it sat pretty in the glass. But where was the nose? Where was the flavor? Was this really worth schlepping and searching all over the Boston 'burbs??

Gary begged to differ. He picked up spice and pepper on the nose, good fruit on the palate, and mocha on the finish He pronounced the Layer Cake "very nice, '' which is not exactly a rave but miles from Lisa's cavalier "there is nothing to recommend here."

On the second night, the tables turned a bit. Lisa still found nothing on the nose, but pronounced the flavor "Much Improved." Oddly, the Layer Cake lacked any hints of a Zinfandel’s spice or smokiness. Gary's night two experience found him noting an ''off-soil'' taste. But he still picked up satisfying mocha flavor with an "explosion of anise."

In the end, we agreed the Layer Cake Primitivo did not live up to its advance billing and would not be joining our list of “must buys.”

A Mano Primitivo 2005  ($11.99)
In the glass the A Mano lacked the Layer Cake's deep ruby beauty But what it lacked in looks, it made up for in personality, at least to. Lisa. "This actually tastes like something," she noted. "Nice body, good fruit, with a hint of Zin-like spice. But no finish."

Gary was having none of it. "Tastes like dishwater. Puckery dishwater."

On night two, the profile changed yet again. Lisa thought the flavor improved but the wine lost some of its smoothness. It was a bit rougher, more rustic on second tasting.

For Gary, yesterday's “dishwater" comment was a memory. The A Mano redeemed itself, with "rich fruit, some spice, and leather on the nose.''

The final verdict, A Mano is the better wine for a casual pizza, pasta, ribs night. Its bottle lacks the cute cake illustration on the front, but it's easy to find and a pleasant, drinkable wine.

        

When we visited Paso Robles a few years ago we drove right by Caparone Winery on San Marcos Road. Why didn't we stop? Maybe 100 wineries in 4 days would have been just a bit too much. But somehow a bottle of Caparone's 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Maria Valley wound up in our wine cellar. Gary thinks it was a gift dating back to his 50th birthday.  Whatever its provenance, the bottle popped out of the cellar and into our kitchen last week to complement a steak tips dinner from Villa House of Pizza. We started low-brow then upgraded to a home-cooked tenderloin dinner the next night.  It gave us a great opportunity to compare the Caparone with two different steak pairings.

Caparone is a boutique, family-run business with father Dave and son Marc at the helm. They produce full-bodied red wines, with a focus on the classic Italian varietals  Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Aglianico. The Cab comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, located in Sisquoc, in the Santa Maria Valley.

Night One — Caparone Cabernet and Steak Tips
We had returned from a four-day business trip to California that morning and were still a bit jet lagged.  Cooking was out. So we called up our local pizzeria and got the always-reliable steak tips.  Then we cracked open the Caparone. It's a beauty to look at, deep ruby red with a circle of caramel at the edges.  Wonderful aroma, with hints of cassis, leather, and tobacco.

The taste was a bit surprising to Lisa, who is not a Cab devotee. It was a bit earthy, smoky, spicy—more like a Shiraz than a California Cab.  The smokiness worked nicely with the steak tips, which had a slight bbq flavor. Gary was taken by the full fruit, round tannins, and smooth finish. We agreed the Caparone was a fine Cabernet for the money ($13) but expected it to improve after 24 hours of aeration and pairing with a better grade of beef.

Night Two — Caparone Cabernet and Tenderloin
After checking out the Caparone Winery web site, Lisa discovered the origin of the smoky flavor. Caparone's Cab is a "classic cool-climate cabernet - dark, intense, with a slight smokiness that is unique to the Bien Nacido Vineyard." Gary fired up the broiler and prepared a simple but delicious steak, seasoned only with Kosher salt and white pepper from St. Martin. On day two, the Cabernet's flavors had deepened. Paired with the tenderloin, the Cab's earthiness subsided and it tasted a bit more refined...more "Cab" like to Lisa's taste. Gary noted a dryer finish.

Whoever gave us the Caparone 2002 Cab — thanks!  We liked it and, for $13, would certainly recommend it as an every-day wine, whatever caliber meat you pair with it.