Southern New England is blessed with many fine winemakers, scratching out an existence in these cold climes, often—but not always—with grapes imported from warmer regions. Since VinoDuo always champions local winemakers, we were game to check out the goods from Zoll Cellars, in that charming Massachusetts village of...Shrewsbury. Yes, Boston readers, Shrewsbury as in Spags, the gone but not forgotten discount mecca. Shrewsbury, as in Route 9 retail heaven; gateway to Worcester.  That's where Frank Zoll set up his small winery, and where VinoDuo spent a gorgeous Saturday in October helping with the winemaking process of grapes from California, New York, and southeastern Mass.

We won the opportunity to get hands-on with the crush at the Newport Wine & Food Festival's silent auction; paying, in fact, to get deliciously dirty, hands and clothing stained purple with Alicante and Cabernet Franc grapes. We loved every minute of it of it.

About Zoll Cellars
Frank Zoll is a relative newbie to winemaking. He started his career as a pastry chef, eventually landing a sweet spot at the Ritz in Boston and the Marriott Marquis in New York. In 2001 he was bitten by the wine bug and started making wine in his parents' kitchen. Ten years and a lot of trial and error later, he's quit his day job and devoted himself full-time to Zoll Cellars. While he hopes to use his own Traminette vines, planted on his Shrewsbury homestead, that vineyard has a ways to go. Right now, the vines are more for show than crush.




The Crush
We paid to engage in repetitive manual labor, and by God we did. First up, dump 1200 pounds of Alicante grapes from Lodi into the crusher.  Grown largely as a blending grape these days, Alicante is itself a hybrid of Grenache and Petit Bouschet. Fortunately, Frank Zoll had plenty of farm hands on board—friends from Long Island—to help VinoDuo with the crush. After an hour or so, all of the plump, perky Alicante grapes lay smashed at the bottom of the crusher, stems cruelly ripped from their bodies, awaiting fermentation. 

          


The Punch Down
The Alicante dispatched with, we turned our grubby little purple fingers to the already-crushed 1500 pounds of Cab Franc from Jamesport Vineyards on Long Island. The grapeskin "cap" of the Cab Franc was bobbing happily in a huge red vat, going through fermentation. The grapes needed to be "punched down" three times a day for 10-12 days. Insert your Lucy and Ethel joke here about stomping the grapes...that's the old-fashioned way to punch down.



The Press
Last chore on the winemaking to-do list was putting an already-fermented 50-50 blend of Merlot and Zinfandel through the press. Pressing is the act of applying pressure to grapes (skins, seeds, and whatever) to separate juice or wine. Based on the photos you might think the press was manly-man work only. No way. Lisa did her share of heavy-duty pressing, but no photos of that miracle act exist.


Finally,  the tasting
After a day of hard labor, the reward...tasting Frank Zoll's current vintages, paired with Frank's own luscious pastries. First up, Northern Whites. Then Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, each barrel aged for 6 months in American or Hungarian oak. Finally, Local Blend dessert wine. All of Zoll Cellar's wines retail for $14.99.

Northern Whites
A 100% Massachusetts white wine blend of Traminette and Vidal Blanc, hand harvested from Westport and Dartmouth Vineyards. We loved the floral nose, accompanied by honey and apricot aromas. Pleasant flavors with a sharp, mineral finish.

Pinot Noir
90% Pinot, 10% Cab Franc grapes, all from Westport Rivers Vineyard in southeastern Mass. Not our favorite; we noted its thin mouth-feel with abundant minerality.

Cabernet  Franc — Bought 1 bottle
A winner! Our favorite was a 100% Cab Franc (grapes sourced from Jamesport Vineyard in NY).  Peppery nose, well structured with deep fruit flavors.  We're laying it down for 6 months or so and look forward to a delicious unveiling.

Local Blend Dessert Wine
An ambitious blend of Long Island  Merlot (aged 4 years in French Oak), Nantucket Brandy from Triple Eight Distillery, and grape concentrate. Good for folks with a sweet tooth, especially when  served with Chef Frank's spectacular Chocolate Mousse Torte made with Ghiradelli chocolate.

When fall comes to New England, thoughts turn to apples, pumpkins, dead leaves, cold rain...oh wait, let's stay on fruits and vegetables...pears, and squash. Our thoughts turn, of course, to grapes, and the burgeoning Massachusetts' wine region. 

Cape Crush Co-Op
As members of the Cape Crush Co-op, we'll be heading to Cape Cod in a few weeks, 30  freshly cleaned/sanitized empty bottles in tow, to claim our 2010 stash of Frank Puzio's marvelous Cab/Merlot/Malbec blend. No, Frank doesn't grow these grapes on the Cape's sandy soil; he trucks them in from California's best wine regions. The alchemy is handled in the winery built into the Puzios' gorgeous Yarmouthport home.

Late September is such a bittersweet time in the VinoDuo household. Heat lovers and sun worshipers to the core, the end of summer and the beginning of fall means colder temperatures, less daylight—basically hibernation until a winter escape or the dawn of spring.  But we’re also ardent wine lovers, and late September brings the harvest and wine events galore. So what better way to celebrate the coming seasons of gloom than with a “go out with a bang” bacchanal at the Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival?  Glam location, stunning views, just-released wines, and small bites from local restaurants and caterers—what’s not to love? And while the crowds get a bit bigger and less refined each year (no apologies from these wine snobs), Newport remains a must-attend event on the fall wine calendar.

  

   

The Food
This year we skipped the all-star chefs tent and indulged in the plentiful tastings from some of southern New England’s top chefs. From Rhode Island’s hottest (and most expensive — $800/night!) new resort, The Ocean House in Watch Hill, we enjoyed a light-as-air vanilla bean mousse with mango salsa.


The Surf and Turf popovers from David Burke Prime (at Foxwoods) were standouts, as was the Heirloom Tomato Soup from the Spiced Pear at the Chanler.  The dark chocolate bites from Chocolate Springs Café (Lenox, MA) were the ideal complement to Graham’s 20 Year Tawny Port, conveniently located at the adjacent table.


The Wine
And while we never turn down free food, the Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival is, for us, all about the wine (we can’t speak for the folks lining up at the Stella Artois beer tent or the Cutty Sark table.) Every year, we discover a couple of gems among the wasteland of wineries bringing not-ready-to-drink wines at outrageous prices seeking Robert Parker labeling or the never-ready-to-drink “people pleasing” wines, priced low and factory-made.  VinoDuo was on the lookout for well-made, well-priced wines with character that are ready (or on the cusp) to drink and pair nicely with Gary’s cooking.

Wine	Retail Price	Why?
Merry Edwards 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (Sonoma)	$42	We fell in love with all of Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noirs (delightfully presented by her husband and partner Ken Coopersmith), but Lisa was particularly taken by this lower-priced multi-vineyard blend. Inky color and rich flavor were very un-Pinot but mighty tasty
Merry Edwards 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir	$42	Lisa flipped over the next vintage of Russian River Valley four- vineyard blend. While it’s not ready for drinking yet, it shows enormous promise.
Merry Edwards 2008 Meredith Estate Russian River Pinot Noir	$57	A single-vineyard Pinot. Fullness of fruit, velvety and great balance…ready now or can lay down.
Merry Edwards 2008 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir	$57	Gary’s favorite has delicious fruit, mineral and silkiness throughout. Single vineyard from Ted Klopp’s 30-year-old vines.
Ladera 2007 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa)	$70+	We imagined the best steaks we’ve had with this as a perfect match. Will cellar well, but the price is a bit steep.
Meteor Vineyard 2008 Perseid Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa)	$150+	100% Cab from a single vineyard with three different clones. This will be a showstopper in a few years; not ready now but clearly worth the gamble. Price point is well beyond our reach but…
Torbreck 2007 The Steading  (Barossa Valley, Australia)	$35	Perfection in a bottle!  This GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro) is among the best we”ve tasted.  Silky tannins and supple/subtle dark berry flavors make this a perfect wine for just about all foods!  A must-buy.
Rubro Vendemmia 2004 Colli Martani Sangiovese (Umbria, Italy)	$25	Great balance of fruit, tannin and acid to make this a perfect wine to have at any dinner table, especially with pasta.  Can also age a bit, but ready to drink now. Just delicious!

Five years ago, VinoDuo took its first road trip to the North Fork of Long Island to check out the vineyards popping up where potatoes and onions once grew. We fell in love with the region, bought a case-full of wine, and wrote a lengthy post about our travels.

Fast forward to 2011. With no summer vacation plans, VinoDuo was desperate for a quick get-away. And since most Long Island wineries lack distribution beyond the Empire State (or even their winery, in some cases) we had long run out of North Fork wine. So we hopped in the car, two hours down Rt 95, a quick ferry ride to Orient Point, and we were back on Long Island.

Long story short, we fell back in love with the region (particularly Greenport,) bought two cases of wine, and will...soon...write a lengthy post about our visit.  In the meantime, here are some pix and a quick list of must-visit wineries.

• One Woman Wines - 1st visit
• Sherwood House Vineyards - 1st visit
• Mattebella Vineyards - 1st visit
• Waters Crest - Return engagement

Stay tuned for a "where to stay, what to drink, what we bought" write up in the coming weeks.

     

Way back in November 2010 VinoDuo attended a delightful tasting at Clio in Boston’s Eliot Hotel. The event was sponsored by Vibrant Rioja, the marketing arm of Spain’s fabled Rioja wine region. And while five months has passed since the tasting (busy, busy, busy,) our notes were detailed and our memories clear. So read on…

 

We’re still amateurs when it comes to understanding Spanish wines, so we jumped at the chance to expand our knowledge at the Vibrant Rioja mid-day wine tasting last November.  Of course, holding the event at Clio was a very smart move; it’s one of Boston’s top restaurants with a price point beyond VinoDuo’s post-recession budget. So even if we weren’t fans of the wine (which we are), we’d still blow off work for an hour or two to sample Clio’s cooking.

 

First, Some Background

La Rioja province is in northern Spain (including part of the autonomous Basque region), with three sub-regions spanning acreage about the size of Delaware. The grapes in most Rioja wines are predominantly Tempranillo and Garnacha, with the occasional Manzuela, Graciano, and, rarely, Cabernet Sauvignon.  Rioja whites are typically produced from Viura, Malvasia, and Garnacha Blanca varietals. About the whites, Lisa and Gary agree, the less said the better. Rioja is appropriately known for its reds and that’s what we’re reviewing.

 

At the Tasting

Our red tasting started with the CVNE Vina Real Crianza 2007  from Basilio Izquierdo. Gary found this wine to be “complex, with a full feel on the palate and a long finish.  Ready to drink and actually quite delicious.” Ever the contrarian, Lisa had just one word to describe the wine…“No!” 

Next, we got a generous pour of the Castillo Labastida Reserva 2004, also from Alavesa. According to Lisa, this 100% Tempranillo was “hot, bitter and actually tasted like it had been in oak for 36 months.” Tell us what you really think, Lisa. Gary found the wine to have too much minerality (calcium?) and notes of sour cherries. “In this case, the wine was released too early (yes, even a 2004 can be too early); it needs to mellow out.  Some folks might find it ready to drink, but not us.”

The third offering, Bodegas La Rioja Alta S.A. Vina Ardanza 2000 (80% Tempranillo Rioja Alta, 20% Garnacha Rioja Baja), is from one of the region’s oldest and best producers. The wine? Amazing!  Lisa said, “Tastes like a delicious Syrah but with a beautiful, caramel-red color in the glass.  Gary noted that the wine “displayed light minerality but smoothed out in the glass.”  Caramel color is a telltale sign of a well-aged wine. This Rioja is definitely ready to drink. ($28-$35)

Vibrant Rioja saved the best for last.  The Bodegas Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva 2002 (Rioja Alta 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha) won VinoDuo’s best in show.  We were told that this was “textbook Rioja with no compromise.”  Lisa noted the great depth of flavor and terroir calling it “marvelous.”  Gary pronounced it “outstanding” and asked for another pour to be certain that this wine was as good as it seemed.  It was! ($37 - $40).

So are the wines from Rioja vibrant?  It’s impossible to generalize about such a diverse region, but we left the tasting feeling rather vibrant, and that’s a good sign of pleasing wine.

With popularity come the hordes. The Boston Wine Expo had become so successful that wading through crowds to uncover great new wine was hardly worth the effort. Thankfully, the Wine Expo producers heard the trade and media whines loud and clear. This year’s Expo featured a new format which allowed wine buyers, sellers, distributors and the press free reign over the show for three hours of serious wine tasting and conversation.  It was such a pleasure to take a few minutes to chat with winemakers and their representatives about their products without the crush of humanity in the aisles.

Australia

Cognizant of the short amount of time we had for our tasting tour, we started with Tick Tock, a relatively new label (to us) from Robert Oatley Wines. We tasted the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon and think this will be a pretty good wine in a couple of years. The tannins were a stiff as a board, actually they were overboard.  But in a year to 18 months this wine may soften enough to be approachable and reveal the flavors that the Tic Toc web site suggests… “bright ripe cherry, blackcurrant and leafy notes…Generous ‘forest fruits’ – ripe red berries to the fore, layered yet soft tannins and a lovely crisp, fresh finish that leaves you wanting for more.”  We’re looking forward to trying this wine again and hope that we’ll be able to taste the forest fruits through the trees.

New England

Next stop Plymouth Rock… well, not quite, but we visited with the folks from the Mayflower Winery in Plymouth MA.  While their primary focus was on non-grape fruit wines, we did find some lovely “real” wine to sample. Mayflower sources its grapes from Massachusetts, New York, and California varietals. The Mayflower Red is composed of Zinfandel (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) juice. We found it to be light, fruit-forward, and serious—not what we expected from the makers of Cranberry Blush, blueberry, and apple “wines.”  At 12½ percent alcohol, it was actually pretty refreshing. VinoDuo loves to patronize small local wineries, and Mayflower’s Red is as local as it comes.  It retails for @ $12 and may just be an excellent stand-in for your favorite Montepulciano D’Abruzzo pizza/burger wine.

Next stop on the New England wine tour was Sharpe Hill. We first visited the Sharpe Hill winery in Pomfret, CT a few years ago and had mixed feelings about their wines. In fact, our write-up of our visit got a number of “boos” from readers, who thought we shouldn’t apply the same critical standards to local wineries as we do the big boys. We disagree.

During our on-site tasting, Sharpe Hill’s standout was the rightly popular Ballet of Angels, a wine that’s made entirely from Vignoles grapes.  At the 2011 Boston Wine Expo we tried Sharpe again and were impressed with the 2008 Cabernet Franc. Delicious on the palate, balancing excellent tannin structure, strawberry and blueberry notes with a smooth finish.  At @ $19 it’s a bit pricey, but if you love Cabernet Franc and you’re a locavore committed to supporting New England wineries, this could be on your shopping list. 

Spain

As always we perused the “collector” tables scattered throughout the Boston Wine Expo. These tables—grouped with individual wineries that either cannot afford booths of their own or are marketed as fine examples of wines of the region—included offerings from Spain, Portugal, France, Australia and New Zealand. One Spanish wine really stood out. The 2004 Marqués de Peñamonte Crianza from Bodegas Riojanas is 100% Tempranillo, with a dark crimson appearance and aromas of oak and vanilla.  On the palate this supple wine featured black cherry and a long memorable finish.  At $18 - $20 it’s a relative bargain and we’ll be on the lookout for it in our favorite wine shops.

Portugal

For our Port loving readers, we did not forget you! Both the 1995 Vista Alegre Colheita (@ $40) and the 20 Year old Tawny Port (@$58) from Vallegre are amazing bargains.  Gary said “Gimme a cigar!” Of course, he doesn’t smoke cigars, but it seemed an appropriate request at the time. Both Ports provided terrific mouth-feel and long memorable finishes. Outstanding!

Staying with the Portugal theme, we tasted the 2006 Alem Red from conglomerate Enoforum, a blend of Syrah and Touriga National.  This wine straddles the old and new world flavor profiles, with complexity, fruit, and a fine, long finish.  At $17 it’s a terrific bargain and once again proves that one doesn’t need to spend $30 to enjoy a great bottle of wine. On a whim we tasted the 2008 Montaria Vinho Regional Alentejano Reserva; after all, how good could a $10 bottle really be? Well, we were impressed with this wine from the Alentejano region of south central part of Portugal. The Reserva, comprised of the indigenous grapes Trincadeira, Alicante Boushet, and Aregonez, has deep black fruit notes on the palate with nice intermediate spicy oaked mineral finish.  We think that this needs to be laid down for 6 months to a year to achieve its full potential.

On our way out of Portugal we tried Teseo Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007, which featured bright, delicious fruit with vanilla/tobacco notes.  Most Primitivo wines offer some level of funkiness; mushroom-earthy is a typical description. But not here; this is a delicious wine with vanilla/tobacco aromas on the nose and red, ripe fruit on the palate with a satisfying finish. Another example of a wine that proves you can have it all; a fair price at $10 and a great everyday wine.

Italy

Before we left the show and made way for the soon-to-invade crowds, we stopped at the Puglia region—the boot—of Italy. The Pichierri Tradizione Del Nonno Primitivo Di Manduria 2007 ($24), was a great way to close out the 2011 Boston Wine Expo.  The Primitivo was simply the best of this varietal—a kin to Zinfandel—we’ve tasted.  If you love the black fruit and spiciness of Zinfandel (with 16% alcohol!) and are looking for a bit more complexity to match with more foods, this is your wine.  Just starting to get distribution into New England…let’s all go to Puglia and taste the wine at the source!

The unanimous winner was the Domaine de Cantemerle, which got four out of four first place votes. Second place went to Chateau Haut Chatain. Both wines run @$15, which is on the higher end of the spectrum of our samples but a pretty good bargain for quality Bordeaux blends.

Conclusions:

1. With two out of seven wines rated a "must buy," we think Planet Bordeaux is on the right track introducing wine lovers to some well-priced options.
   
2. The $10-$20 price point is pretty crowded with very good wine from Argentina, Chile, Spain, and Portugal. Bordeaux will have to fight hard to get Americans to migrate from crowd-pleasing vintages from the New World (and Iberia) to French wines with complicated labels.
   
3. If Planet Bordeaux was looking for quick feedback on its wines, it shouldn't have shipped vintages that weren't ready for consumption. Perhaps we should have pulled the 2007 and 2008 bottles out of the tasting and laid them down for a minimum of 6 months prior to opening. 

We appreciate being included in the Planet Bordeaux awareness campaign and look forward to learning more.

October is a great time to visit Mediterranean Europe; the crowds have dissipated and the weather is still quite pleasant with temperatures in the high 60’s to low 70’s.  And while our crazy romantic side said, “Let’s take a month and do the Italian vineyards,” our heads and pocketbooks said, “Let’s grab a cruise and cram as much into a week as we can.”  So we shuffled off to Barcelona, the cruise’s launch pad, for a few days of pre-sailing urban life in one of the world’s great cities.

Upon our arrival in Barcelona, we found out that Lisa’s luggage took a detour to Belgrade.  Belgrade-Barcelona; I guess they sounded the same to Boston’s Swiss Air baggage crew.  So along with some unplanned wardrobe shopping (all together now…poor Lisa), VinoDuo found a few terrific spots to learn about, enjoy, and buy Spanish wine.

BARCELONA

Xampany Wine Shop — Valencia 200, Barcelona

Our cruise line’s rules allow passengers to bring two bottles of wine on board. So VinoDuo went shopping and  stumbled on Xampany, a marvelous wine shop not far from the hotel  This place was a real hoot;  a throwback to the 60’s with store’s “office” set up in an open loft overlooking the sales counter. The proprietor sat at an oak roll-top desk with the warm glow of a banker’s desk-lamp nearby.  Fortunately his English was better than our Catalan. We fessed up to a limited knowledge of Spanish wine and he produced two fine specimens to bring on board, one from Rioja the other from Priorat, a wine region south of Barcelona.

 

The stand-out was the  2006 Les Terrasses Alvaro Palacios Priorat. Priorat is a “prestigious” blend usually including Garnacha Tinta, Garnacha Peluda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah.  Priorat almost always features relatively higher alcohol content (> 15%).

We brought this bottle to one of our dinners aboard ship, hoping to make fast friends with our table mates. Readers, it worked! We hooked up with a marvelous couple from the UK who shared our love of wine and travel. The Priorat was a hit with all of us, complementing chicken and veal dishes. This garnet/purple wine had an earthy nose with hints of leather, pipe tobacco, and black cherries. On the palate it was delicious with a slightly full fruit-forward taste followed by silky tannins for a smooth palate-feel and a long, delicious finish. An amazing value for @ $35 US. 

Cata 1.81 – Barcelona  (wine bar)

As we ambled around the streets of Barcelona near the terrific Hotel Amister we stumbled on the hip wine bar Cata 1.81. The bar wears a modern industrial look with a welcoming personality. We were immediately seated with another group at a community table with a couple from Baltimore and their local guide, who was leading a tour of Barcelona’s best wine bars. Now there’s a Career 2.0 idea for VinoDuo!

We enjoyed the Tapas menu and one wine, the 2006 Castillo Perelada Empordà Finca Malaveïna (Blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot), really stood out.  Hints of leather and cassis on the nose and blackberry-cherry licorice notes on the palate ending in a complex, fruity finish.

ON THE CRUISE

Fattoria Maionchi, Via di Tofori 81, 55012 – Capannori (Lu) 

When we docked in Livorno, most of our shipmates awoke pre-dawn and took the hours-long ride to Florence.  We chose the more civilized mid-morning drive through the centuries-old wine region of Lucca to Fattoria Maionchi, a 17th century Villa and winery featuring both apartments (for rent at estate) and several wines, Vinsanto, Grappa and olive oils.

The setting was fairy-tale perfect. Lush farmland surrounding the historic ochre and brick villa. Vibrant gardens bursting with purple, orange, and red plantings. And vineyards that took your breath away. If Peter Mayle had stopped at Fattoria Maionchi on his way to Provence, he would have spent his year here instead.

        

Our visit started with a tour of the wine cellar.  Its thick, mottled walls of quarry rock revealed generations of winemaking history. In this naturally temperature controlled sub-basement, the guide shared Fattoria Maionchi’s process for aging its wine.

   

New and old oak casks line the walls along with the leftovers from vintages past. The usually articulate Gary just kept repeating “wow.”  Perhaps he was calculating how to convert our basement crawl space cum wine cellar into something more akin to this beauty.

What We Tasted

We settled in to the modern tasting room with about a dozen other cruisemates and were treated to a tasting of the Estate’s wines plus a hair-raising Grappa.

• Rosso delle Colline Lucchesi '09 D.O.C. (sangiovese 65%, ciliegiolo 20%, canaiolo 10%, colorino 5%): Deep garnet color with a bright berry nose. Rough and rustic flavors.
• Colline Lucchesi bianco '09 D.O.C. (trebbiano toscano 65%, greco 15%, vermentino bianco 15%, malvasia del chianti 5%”): Intense color but bland on the palate; citrus finish with hint of vanilla.
• Arcangelo '06 DOC (sangiovese 70%, merlot 30%): A more intense, structured red than the Rosso delle Colline. Deep dark, inky red color; dark red fruit flavors, with a long finish.
• Lisa called the  Vin Santo (a traditional white dessert wine) “liquid gold.” Very concentrated; ideally matched with an almod biscotti
•  The Grappa, which VinoDuo first tried during a ski trip in the Italian Alps, was delicious A uniquely Italian drink made from the dregs of the grapes, Grappa can be up to 60% alcohol. One sip of the Estate’s and we had enough, but fondly remember its surprisingly nutty character.

At the conclusion of the main tasting, Gary did some undercover work and found another wine held back from the tasting. Since his family motto is “if you don’t ask, you don’t get,” he asked and we got.  The 2003 Cintello IGT (Sangiovese 85%, Canaiolo 15%) was supple and complex with deep black fruit and cherry notes A very good super-Tuscan style wine with the kind of personality that we look for in a @ $30 - $35 wine.  So we bought a bottle and shared it with our new-found friends on the ship, accompanied by a selection of cheeses.

We had a memorable day at Fattoria Maionchi. The wine was above average at best, but when the atmospherics and gracious hospitality are factored in, it was an excursion well worth taking. As for the wine, if we can find their Cintello locally we’ll certainly put it on our must-buy list.

Next stop: Cheese Tasting in Rome

 

If it's freezing, snowy, and dreary outside, it's time for the Boston Wine Expo, that little ray of Italian, French, California, and Argentinian sunshine for local wine lovers...or anyone who just wants to spend a warm day indoors drinking. For VinoDuo, the Boston Wine Expo is a great opportunity to broaden our horizons and taste wines from emerging regions; re-visit old favorites to see how their latest vintages turned out; and scarf some free cheese, chocolates, and other goodies from the non-wine purveyors.

We've scoured the 2011 exhibitors on the Expo's web site and found a few "must re-visit" wineries we highly recommend you check out. VINO DUO READERS CAN GET $15 OFF THE  SUNDAY (1/23) GRAND TASTING TICKETS BY GOING TO THE BOSTON WINE EXPO WEB SITE AND FILLING IN "VINODUO" IN THE DISCOUNT CODE!  Act quickly...you must purchase your tickets by end of day Saturday, January 22 to get the discount.

We had a blast during our 2009 trip to the New York Finger Lakes and continue to seek out wine from many of the region's producers. We're pleased to see that three of our favorites will be at the Boston Wine Expo.

Ravines

What They're Pouring at the Expo

• Dry Riesling (2008)
• Chardonnay (2008)
• Cabernet Franc (2008)
• Meritage (2007)
• Pinot Noir (2008)

What We Wrote About Ravines

“A winery where the quality of the wines matched the classic beauty of the tasting room. Winemaker Morten Hallgren is a French transplant whose family owned Domaine de Castel Roubine in Provence.  Before opening Ravines in 2003, Hallgren was chief winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank Wines.

We bought the 2006 Meritage “Big, bold fruit and just the right amount of pepper and spice; probably should cellar a year or so” and the 2007 Cabernet Franc – Spicy nose, cherry flavors and some white pepper."

Dr. Franks 

What they’re Pouring at the Expo

• Dry Riesling (2009)
• Semi Dry Riesling (2009)
• Rkatsiteli (2008)
• Fleur de Pinot Noir (2008)
• Blanc de Blancs (2006)

What We Wrote About Dr. Frank's

"We approached Dr. Frank's with trepidation. There's a kind of cult of personality surrounding the place. But we loved most of the wine. Add in the drop-dead gorgeous view of the lake and this is one tasting experience you shouldn't miss. We walked out with half a case, including the 2007 Chardonnay (Crisp citrus aroma; lime flavors too; little butter some oak); the 2007 Dry Riesling (Floral and citrus nose; delicious spicy pear and grapefruit flavors), and the 2002 Chateau Frank Blanc de Noir–-Elegant and delicious."

Red Newt

What they’re Pouring at the Expo

• Circle Label Riesling
• Riesling Reserve

What We Wrote About Red Newt

"We indulged in a marvelous lunch at Red Newt Bistro, the acclaimed restaurant at Red Newt Cellars in Hector. Red Newt’s 2008 Syrah/Cab Franc blend. Its pale pink color looks like a White Zin, but the luscious grapefruit on the nose and apricot on the palate were most sophisticated.

Since it was the middle of the day, Gary decided to go with the Dry White Flight. This time, the tastes were all Red Newt varietals. The Chardonnay was a light hay color with a butterscotch nose and bright, white grape juice flavors—delicious. Gary also loved the Yellow Jail blend, with its clean apricot and honeydew aroma and pink grapefruit taste."

Turtle Creek Winery
New York isn't the only cold climate to produce wonderful wine. A stones throw from Lexington, in Lincoln, MA, you'll find Turtle Creek Winery.

What They’re Pouring at the Expo

• Riesling (2009)
• Syrah (2008)
• Zinfandel (2007)
• Late Harvest Zinfandel

What We Wrote About Turtle Creek

"We bought the 2006 Dry Riesling (gets his grapes from Sheldrake Vineyard in the Finger Lakes) “fresh, clean, with flavors of grapefruit and tart apple. [Producer Kip] Kumler released the wine in September 2008 after 10 months in stainless and a year in the bottle. He produced just 624 bottles; we feel lucky to have snagged one of them.”

We were less enthralled with the Zin.“He imports his grapes from Wildwood Vineyards in Amador County, California.  But don’t expect a big fat juicy, chewy, smoky Zin.  As the Turtle Creek website puts it, this Zinfandel is “idiosyncratic, with half of the grapes left on skins, after fermentation, for two months.”  So you lose color, and you lose some POW!  What you gain is some earthiness and, according to Kumler, elegance.  Well, call us rubes, but if we wanted elegance we would order a Pinot Noir.  We do look forward with great anticipation to the 2009 Zin, which Kip says will have more depth of color and more Zin impact.”

Cameron Hughes Wine

We're intrigued by Cameron Hughes' business model. They buy up excess juice from prominent (but unnamed) wineries, bottle it under their own label  below the original price. We'll be stopping by their table at the Expo to see if we can unmask the 'real' winemakers!

What they’re Pouring at the Expo

• Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (2007)
• Lot 214 - Los Carneros Chardonnay (2009)
• Zin Your Face (2008)
• The Flying Winemaker Malbec (2008)
• The Flying Winemaker Zinfandel (2007)

Don't take our word for these raves...get down to the Boston Wine Expo and taste for yourself!

We're climbing on the Top 10 bandwagon with a list of the best wines we tasted last year. Combing through our 2010 posts reminded us of some lovely trips and events: revisiting the Connecticut Wine Trail; returning to the Newport Wine and Food Festival; discovering Portugal beyond Port.

We've yet to write up our trip to Barcelona and Italy in October, so stay tuned for some late 2010 delights.

Friday Night - Wine & Rosecliff, recession edition
Well, maybe the recession finally caught up with the event. Or maybe we’ve become unbearable snobs. (Oh no, how could that be?) But this year, Lisa summed it up in one expression, “Sacre Bleu! What have they done to Wine & Rosecliff?”  An air of commercialism permeated the event. In-your-face sponsorship from Infinity cars (parked on the back lawn marring an otherwise beautiful ocean view); tables hawking ZYR Vodka, Ripe Cocktails, Triple 8 Distilling, and Belgian beer; limited quantities of unexciting food (which recalls that old joke about the food being bad and the portions so small and a dessert table empty by 9pm. 

Top this off with loud wedding-quality music and an overly intoxicated crowd, and you have the wrong ingredients for lively, interesting conversation about quality wines.

Saturday Wine Tasting At Marble House: Better than Ever

All was forgiven on Saturday, though, with a best-ever Grand Tasting under the elegant white tents at Marble House. A perfect late-summer day was the perfect backdrop for terrific food from some of Rhode Island’s top restaurants and caterers and an extensive selection of wines from little-known family vineyards and big corporate wineries. Per the usual divide and conquer strategy Lisa spent most of her time scoping out the food (and basking in the sun); Gary made the rounds of the 100+ wineries represented and did some serious tasting.

 

Best Food

With 18 white-toqued chefs whipping up snacks, entrees, and desserts, Lisa had a lot of due diligence to do before uncovering the superior offerings. Two dishes made it to the “memorable” list:

• Fish Chowder from Windward Restaurant  at the Hyatt Goat Island in Newport. Cod, haddock, and corn dotted with bacon and chives.
• Local Harvest Fruit Chutney with Feta in Phyllo Dough from Local 121 in Providence. A stunning combination of sweet fruit and savory cheese all wrapped up in a meltingly flaky phyllo pillow.
  

Best Wine
Since Gary did most of the tasting, white wine got short shrift this time.  Following are the top red wines on our tasting list.

• Twomey Cellars Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County 2008
• Banfi Summus Toscana IGT 2005 (Cab, Sangiovese, Syrah blend)
• Trifecta Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
• Vidal Fleury Crozes Hermitage 2007 (Syrah)

         

Our Favorite Tastes of Newport 2010

When we first visited the eastern loop of the Connecticut Wine Trail in November 2007, we were delighted to find several outstanding wineries sprinkled amid the strip malls and gambling casinos. We also encountered some not so outstanding wine. And we wrote about all of it. (http://blog.vinoduo.com/2007/11/23/along-the-eastern-connecticut-wine-trail.aspx) Apparently, that broke some kind of unspoken code of honor—writers should never speak ill of run of the mill wine produced by small, local wineries. One reader chastised us for our “profound and very transparent snobbery,” and implied that holding Connecticut wine to the same standard as wine produced in California or Washington was absurd.

We were stung by the criticism. As champions of smaller wineries in lesser-known regions, we regularly shine a light on wine that deserves a wider audience. But we also believe that good wine is good wine, no matter how big or small the producer. So along the Connecticut Wine Trail three years ago, we crowed about Priam Vineyards and Jonathan Edwards Winery and were less charitable about others.  Re-reading our post, however, we were struck by the snarky tone that did not reflect favorably on VinoDuo. So, as we planned our return trip to Connecticut to visit the wineries we missed in ‘07, Lisa and Gary made a pact: speak well of the good stuff and…speak our mind about the rest, but, you know, politely.

What We Bought

If you’d rather skip the tasting details and just want to know what to buy, here’s our Connecticut weekend haul:

Jones Winery

• Stonewall Chardonnay 2009  ($16.95)
• Merlot 2009  ($17.95)
• Ripton Red ($15.95)
• Black Currant Bouquet  ($15.95)

Heritage Trail Vineyards

• Chardonnay  ($32)
• Cabernet Franc ($32)

Where We Stayed

You might say we slept in the vineyards during our visit. Fitch Claremont Vineyard Bed in Bozrah is surrounded by four acres of vines, lovingly planted by proprietor Warren Strong.  Warren and Nora are amateur winemakers and excellent innkeepers; our room was comfortable and clean as a whistle and the breakfast was out of this world! We’re still trying to figure out how to make the stuffed blueberry egg soufflé dish that graced our plate.

What We Tasted

Our first stop took us to McLaughlin Vineyards in Sandy Hook, at the far western reaches of the Eastern Wine Trail. In a bit of time-travel freakiness, we drove down a long and dusty road past a field where two teams clad in vintage uniforms played old-timey baseball with wooden bats and larger balls.  We had stumbled on a regular weekend game of the Newtown Sandy Hook Vintage Baseball Club , founded in 2005 to “provide wholesome recreation to those who wish to experience our national pastime played in the style and traditions of the 19th Century.” 

After that surreal introduction, we anticipated McLaughlin Vineyards staff greeting us in bonnets and aprons. But while the winery sits on a160-acre farm with a homey, old-fashioned New England feel to it, the tasting room and wine were very 21st century. 

The young tasting room staffer walked us through the wine offerings.  McLaughlin produces 2500 cases of wine each year, much of it not to our taste. Gary suggested there was too much of the limestone terroir shining though the wines, “adding imbalance and a dissatisfying aftertaste on the finish,” particularly with the Merlot. (The best part of the Merlot tasting was the marvelous Thompson Chocolates from Meriden, CT served with it.) We preferred the Vista Reposa (non-vintage,) a Cabernet Sauvignon/Cab Franc blend whose deep flavors show true promise.

Our second stop was the Jones Family Farms, 13 miles from McLaughlin in Shelton, CT. Founded in the 1850’s and now in its sixth generation of family farming, Jones is better known in Shelton as “the place you get your Christmas tree.” With 200 acres of evergreens and a giant wooden Santa Claus on the premises, we assumed that winemaking was Farmer Jones’ hobby. We assumed wrong. Winemaker Jamie Jones is no amateur. He produces complex, drinkable wines that we happily tasted, bought, and cellared.

                          

In a beautifully renovated tasting room (2009) with a centered rectangular bar, Bob Sember walked us through the Jones tasting menu. Bob has worked at the farm for over 18 years. He was incredibly generous with both his knowledge and time and provided one of the best tasting experiences we’ve had in quite a while.

Of the three white varietals (Cayuga, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris) we were partial to the 2009 Stonewall Chardonnay ($17.)  This unoaked Chard featured hints of honeysuckle, peach with a slight minerality. The crisp, clean palate prompted Lisa to say, “So that’s how Chardonnay is supposed to taste.” The ’09 was Jones’ first vintage; we bought two bottles and look forward to seeing how year 2 turns out.

Connecticut supplies the grapes for all of the white wines. For his reds, Jamie Jones draws from his own vineyards (Cab Franc), other Connecticut producers (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon), and California’s Central Coast (Merlot, Sangiovese). Importing grapes is a touchy subject in Connecticut (see our previous post re: Jonathan Edwards Winery.) So we’ll leave the moralizing to others and simply discuss the wine.

We loved the Jones 2009 Merlot, ($18) which blends some locally grown Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with the Central Coast Merlot. A nice balance of fruit and tannins interlaced with hints of oak and leather. Ripton Red ($16) is a Jones Winery favorite, comprised of 80% California Sangiovese and 20% Connecticut Merlot and assorted “other” varietals.  The nose had hints of cherry Twizzlers and the taste was “kapow,” with big fruit and tannins to match. Gary said he couldn’t wait to pair it with his homemade eggplant and chicken parmesan (which, Lisa will note, beats the local red sauce Italian joint any night of the week).

Our final stop of the day was at Gouveia Vineyards in Wallingford.  Goueveia has a drop-dead gorgeous setting, with 360-degree views of rolling woodlands and centuries-old farms. It looks the part of a sophisticated wine operation. Step inside and it’s Saturday Night in Wallingford…or Tanglewood without the BSO or the brie. (Oh, there’s that snark again. Bad Lisa)  Couples, families, groups are spread out on picnic tables, enjoying their pizza, Chinese take-out, or homemade treats. One couple was playing Yahtzee; others dealt cards for a friendly game of gin rummy.  And they were all drinking Goueveia wine, purchased at the winery, of course.

                 

It was controlled pandemonium, so we forgave the tasting room staff for being a bit distracted. Conversation was short and, frankly, a bit uninformed. On its 28 acres, Gouveia cultivates 13 varietals, from Connecticut favorites like Cayuga and St. Croix to Merlot, Cab Franc, and Pinot Noir. We tasted six wines, including two Chardonnays (one oaked, the other steel), a super-sweet Rosé, a Cab Franc, Merlot, and Stone House Red. We liked the Stone House Red ($20,) a blend of Merlot, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in US and French oak. Gary thought it would be a terrific “burger wine” but at $20 he lamented that there are plenty of choices that go for closer to $10. We also liked the 2009 Merlot with its deep plum nose, fruit-forward taste and spice/pepper finish. Perhaps if we weren’t so rushed at the tasting bar, we might have enjoyed the wines a bit more, and maybe even had some of our questions answered.

On Day Two we chucked our plan to re-visit wineries from the 2007 trip and headed to Lisbon, CT to scope out the newest winery on the Eastern loop, Heritage Trail Vineyards .  If walking into Gouveia was like date night in the ‘burbs, the vibe at Heritage Trail was Sunday Brunch in SoHo. More a restaurant that serves homemade wine (but oh, what wine) than a winery with some food, Heritage Trail is the brainchild of Harry and Laura Schwartz. Malibu transplants, the Schwartz’s have found the ideal division of labor: Chef Harry (of Public Television and cookbook fame) runs the restaurant and Laura is winemaker and winery manager.

         

At Heritage, set aside your winery expectations. There’s no tasting bar. The staff is young, hip, and a little green around the gills when it comes to understanding wine. But Harry and Laura were warm, gracious hosts. The palate cleansers were divine: a trio of toppings for crackers and breads including goat cheese from the Schwartz’s farm, Tuscan black olive tapenade, blueberry compote, and, wasabi-flavored goat cheese flatbread crisps. Oh, and did we mention that Laura makes phenomenally good wine?

While we tasted seven wines, Lisa and Gary agreed on two examples of terrific, serious wine made with Northeastern-grown grapes. The unoaked Chardonnay ($32) was a big hit. In the glass the wine is light-colored straw; almost translucent. But with its sweet pear and peaches on the nose, a balance of fruit, acid, and tannin structure, and a long finish, we could have sworn we were drinking a classic California deck wine.

Heritage’s Cabernet Franc ($32) was our other favorite. The fruit is from the North Fork of Long Island (another favorite weekend destination for VinoDuo,) with a lovely color a bit light for a Cab Franc. This fruity charmer grew in complexity as it opens (it took @15 minutes in our glasses). There were notes of vanilla, toasted oak, and tobacco on the nose, bright berry flavors, and enough acidity to stand up to lamb and veal. This is one of the best Cabernet Franc’s we’ve tasted from Northeast producers and only stands to improve in our cellar.

 

 

 

 

It’s every baby boomer’s dream: turn a passionate hobby into a second career. Some folks make jewelry. Others open a yoga studio or a used bookshop. And what wine lover hasn’t daydreamed about cultivating a few acres in Napa or Sonoma? Well, one 60ish Optometrist on Cape Cod has expanded his life-long hobby of making homemade wine for friends and family into the Cape Winery Co-Op. Dr. Frank Puzio hasn’t quit his day job—he’s one of the Cape’s most respected and innovative eye doctors—but he’s grown from a vino-hobbyist to an accomplished small-batch winemaker.

The Winemaker 

We met Frank and his wife, Diane, through a friend and fellow wine enthusiast. She told us about a home-based winemaker with a fabulous home on the Cape and a talent for crafting Old World reds from California grapes. We smiled, but winced. Gary’s grandfather made wine on the back porch of his triple-decker in Malden, Mass. Frank Puzio’s grandfather Dominic made wine in the basement. Other passionate amateurs have eagerly thrust a glass of their home brew our way. Yes, we know they’re made with love, but…is it really wine?  But of course, we readily agreed to meet Frank and taste his wine. Any opportunity to be on the Cape, in the summer, at a stunning home near the beach was too good to pass up.

The Winemaking

On a brilliant July afternoon, we visited the Puzios and were in for the surprise of our life. From the scientifically-driven winemaking process to the stylish and functional cellar to, yes, the wine, Frank has brought extraordinary vision to his “hobby.” The cellar is hand-crafted (Frank did most of the work himself,) with a stunning below-grade granite barrel area.  The room includes all of the gadgets and equipment one needs for proper winemaking. Puzio’s “laboratory” reminded us of the (much larger) cellar at Turtle Creek Winery (Kip Kumler’s place in Lincoln, MA).  

  

Grapes do grow in Cape Cod’s sandy soil. But let’s just say the Cape produces better Cod than Cabernet. Frank Puzio’s grapes travel cross-country in about 5 days from Lodi or Monterrey, California (delivered fresh, not frozen, flash-frozen, or previously frozen) After the crush and the clarification, Frank stores his wine in French Oak for a full year. Upcoming vintages will age in something new… a lined poly-tank with toasted oak planks introduced through the middle of the tank.  This process uses less wood and is more sustainable than 100% oak.

The Wine

Frank Puzio produces red wine blends in the tradition of some Meritages or Clarets and even some Super Tuscans. Frank poured two wines for us during the tasting:

2007 Blend

Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) , Merlot (22%), and Sangiovese (12%)

We were astounded by the quality and complexity of the wine.  This is a serious, food-friendly wine that should accompany a nice Osso Buco or even a pizza with meat toppings. We noted intense black fruit flavors, with good tannin structure for a dry finish.  The character of the wine improved over the one hour or so that we spent getting to know Frank, Diane and their wines.  The 2007 Blend was truly, surprisingly pleasant and delicious!

2008 Blend

Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) , Merlot (22%), and Syrah (12%)

Frank opened the barrel for this Blend, as it had about 2 months left before bottling.  Again, we were impressed by the quality and complexity of the wine.  The Syrah added depth and soul to this blend.  The undertones of vanilla and cherry licorice flavors were balanced and the wine was velvety on the palate.  The character of this blend also improved as we swirled the glass while chatting and nibbling cheese and crackers. 

Bravo to Frank Puzio for putting his passion and his vision to work. He may still be the Cape’s eye doctor of choice, but we envision his Cape Winery Co-Op consuming more of his time as the vintages go by.

Note: Cape Winery Co-Op follows the model of successful co-ops across the country. Participants sign an agreement stating they are not purchasing wine but rather supporting the costs of their personal share for the procurement of quality wine grapes from California, the wine yeasts, and nutrients, required chemicals and supplies, etc. Co-op participants can reserve one or more six-gallon unit (30 bottles) or split the volume with a partner. The fee is $400 per six-gallon unit.  Anyone interested in signing up for next year’s co-op contact Frank Puzio at drfpuzio@gmail.com.

 

Tonight for your dining pleasure, will it be chicken paired with pencil shavings? Veal accompanied by a delightful wet granite? Or a marvelous filet paired with white pepper, smoke, and loam? The language of wine can be pretentious, self-important, and downright weird (pencil shavings??)  Worst of all, flowery wine descriptions can be misleading.  You’re shopping for a well-priced, medium-bodied white wine to serve with the roast chicken, and all you really want to know is: what does the wine taste like and will it complement my meal?  Instead, the shelf tags quote wine reviewers pontificating about hints of quince and noses of posies (and yes, vinoduo is guilty of over-the-top descriptions, so don’t barrage us with emails, please.)

Who do we turn to for honest, plain-spoken but spot-on wine and food pairing reviews? Ray Isle is our go-to guy. Whether it’s his column and articles in Food & Wine or his wine blog (http://www.foodandwine.com/blogs/tasting-room, Ray makes us want to jump in the car and buy whatever wine he’s raving about. And then cook the food he’s paired it with.

Until Ray becomes a guest blogger on VinoDuo, we’ll continue to offer our suggestions on wine and food pairings. And since we know that for every one of our suggestions there’s 100 others just as valid (sort of), we’ve included the “conventional wisdom” pick in our food pairing charts, below. Won’t it be fun to check out who’s right? Um, we mean, whose opinion most closely matches your own  

Chicken Recipes

Dish	Conventional Wisdom	VinoDuo Suggests
Chicken Cacciatore	Chenin Blanc (white)	Sangiovese (red)
Chicken with Mushrooms & Cream Sauce	Chardonnay (white)	French Unoaked Chardonnay
Fried Chicken	Chenin Blanc (white)	UGH. Does wine really go with Fried Chicken? Get a Red Stripe!
Roast Chicken with Rosemary	Beaujolais (red)	French Unoaked Chardonnay

Beef Recipes

(note: all wines are red in this category)

Dish	Conventional Wisdom	VinoDuo Suggests
Pan Seared Tenderloin	Cabernet Sauvignon	California Syrah
Hamburgers	Beaujolais	Zinfandel or Shiraz
Rib Eye Roast	Merlot	Merlot or Claret
Sirloin Tips with Roast Veggies	Merlot	Cabernet Sauvignon

Pork Recipes

Dish	Conventional Wisdom	VinoDuo Suggests
Pork Tenderloin with Orange Marmalade	Pinot Noir (red)	Pinot Noir
Pork Scaloppini with Porcini Mushrooms	Pinot Grigio (white)	Dry Riesling (white)
Baked Ham with Maple Glaze	Riesling (white)	Torrontes (white)
Pork Chops with Vinegary Peppers	Zinfan del (red)	Wine and Vinegar? Try an IPA instead

Fish & Seafood Recipes

(note: all the wines are white in this category except for the Pinot Noir)

Dish	Conventional Wisdom	VinoDuo Suggestions
Baked Halibut	Soave	Sauvignon Blanc
Marinated Swordfish	Sauvignon Blanc	Sancerre
Steamed Lobster	Chardonnay	Chenin Blanc
Herb Crusted Salmon	Chardonnay	Santa Barbara Pinot Noir

Latin & Asian Recipes

Dish	Suggested Wine	What We Suggested
Kung Pao Shrimp	Gewürztraminer (white)	Sauvignon Blanc
General Gao’s Chicken	Merlot	Malbec (red)
Pad Thai	Chenin Blanc	Dry Riesling or Unoaked Chardonnay
Mexican	Sauvignon Blanc	Soave, Dry Riesling (white)

This is just a small sampling of suggested food and wine pairings; the possibilities are endless and perhaps overwhelming...so much so that you might just give in and visit the beer cooler!  But hopefully you’ll experiment and document your findings.  Tell us what wines you pair with your favorite meals. Just lay off the pencil shavings and slate, ok?

 

 

As locavore wine lovers, we frequent nearby shops rather than buying from Wine.Com or big box stores like Costco. It’s a great way to keep our dollars in the community while evaluating each wine seller’s knowledge, taste, and judgment.  When it was time to dust off the grill for the summer, Gary chose his excellent Bison Burgers Sliders for our inaugural bbq. Craving a spicy Malbec accompaniment, we asked Roger, the wine aficionado at Crushed Grapes, one of our favorite shops in Lexington, MA, to suggest a few good value Malbecs from the Mendoza region of Argentina.

Roger is usually right on the money with his recommendations so we purchased two bottles and turned the night into a VinoDuo Cheapo Challenge:

• $8 bottle from Puerto Viejo Malbec-2008
•  
  $15 bottle from Bombal & Aldoa 1830 Malbec-2007

We added a third Mendoza Malbec as the “benchmark” for the tasting; one of our recent favorites, a $12 bottle of 2006 Andeluna Winemakers Selection Malbec (http://www.andeluna.com/wines/06_malbec_WS.shtml)

Yes, we know, a tasting across three different years and three different areas of Mendoza is not a “real” test. You can’t compare young, just out of the barrel wine with a mature wine. So we’re not purists…sue us!

This is not actually a contest though… it’s more of a “truth in advertising” sojourn.  We wanted to know how close the winemaker’s marketing blurbs on the bottle came to the actual taste. So we put on our “wine police” hat and began the tasting. As Anderson Cooper says, “We’re keeping ’em honest.”

Wine	They Say…	We Say..
Puerto Viejo Malbec 2008	Deep ruby red with hints of plum, cinnamon, and minerals, this wine is intense and concentrated with a balanced finish.	Not really a deep ruby, more like a bright medium ruby (Yeah, color is subjective; we won’t hang our case on this point) Aromas of cigar box and Cherry Heering.  We did taste cinnamon on the palate with some racy Bing cherry fruit mid-palate and a lingering cinnamon-cocoa finish. Day Two, there was a fruity boom then bust! No distinctive character. Unbalanced finish. A little sleuthing uncovered that this winery actually specializes in Chilean grapes—8 of 9 wines they produce are Chilean.  Are they trying to cash in on the Malbec craze? Maybe the lesson is, drink it all  up on Day One!
Bombal & Aldoa 1830 Malbec 2007	Deep red in color with ruby highlights. An enticing, complex aroma that hints at blackberries, flowers, and a touch of eucalyptus. On the mouth you can feel the typical sweetness of the Malbec.	Roger raved about this wine, so we had high hopes. Dark ruby color…check. Complex aroma of toasty vanilla and cherry…check. Typical sweetness…  Gary picked up “creamy caramelized cherries   jubilee on the palate.”  Triple check. This is a well-made wine that’s neither a fruit-bomb nor a pizza companion.  It held its own on Day Two, with Lisa calling the Malbec a “serviceable wine… enjoyable with food or for social events.” We do quibble with the eucalyptus aroma. Perhaps the winemaker was nursing a sore throat with Hall’s Mentho-Lyptus prior to tasting.
Andeluna Winemakers’ Selection Malbec 2006	Excellent body and exceptionally well balanced with a great structure. Aromas of ripe plums, strawberry, lavender and vanilla with notes of cherry and spices are balanced with lush flavors of red plum, black currant, Morella cherry and chocolate with notes of dried fruits and red fruit liqueur that complement the soft, sweet, rounded tannins and produce an exquisite finish.	We love this Malbec and wish more wineries would emulate Silvio Alberto and Michel Rolland and cross into the no-man’s-land of balancing old world styles with the new. Amazingly, Alberto and Rolland work their magic consistently across 11,000+ cases. Even the Wine Enthusiast agrees, saying “Great overall balance for an under-$15 wine. There's slam-bang dark fruit, good mouth feel, tightness and serious but controlled tannins. Oak plays its role on the back palate and finish, and in the end the wine is as savory and balanced as it is bold and fruity…90 Points.”  The Andeluna Winemaker’s Selection Malbec-2006 is a terrific value and is a must buy.

So, in conclusion, the 1830 and Andeluna were outstanding with the Bison Burgers.  But the Andeluna still reigns supreme         

as our Malbec benchmark.

A recent article in Businessweek about America’s wine buying habits made us both a little sad. The” brands” most favored by Americans are Sutter Home, Yellow Tail, Barefoot, Franzia, and Woodbridge.  Yes, we know these are budget-priced wines and have the corporate backing to negotiate front and center space in the wine shops and supermarkets.  But if you’re looking for wines in the $9 - $12 range, there are so many choices better than these aforementioned brands.

We suggest taking a chance. Go out on a limb and try something new!  If you swear by Sutter Home’s White Zinfandel, try La Linda Malbec Rose ($12) from Argentina. In July 2009 we wrote we had a crush on this “sweet (but not too sweet) juicy, cranberry-colored” charmer. La Linda has “a strawberry nose [that] gives way to a dry but, fresh flavor. Lots of fruit but not in your face.”

For a terrific summer white, bag the Kangaroo and try La Poule Blanche Vin de Pays. Discovered last June at the Spirited Gourmet tasting, we wrote, “We just loved this wine. Its peach and honeysuckle nose is complemented by a vanilla-mineral palate that will accompany many of your summer weekend lunch favorites. At $10.99 this is definitely on our by list.”

If you’re a red wine fan, try Quintas das Tecedeiras Reserva 2006 from Portugal ($12). In October 2009 we wrote that this six-grape blend had “…a nice deep cherry nose and a terrific balance of tannins and fruit throughout the taste. Tastes like a far more expensive wine and is a terrific value.”

With a 1.6 percent decline in wines sales priced $20+, it’s clear that the economy has hurt the wine market along with every other industry.  But there are so many wines that taste like $20+ bottles but cost much less! So it’s time to explore new varietals, new wine regions, and new names.

Sometimes you just want to get away; you know, leave your regimented day behind, if only for a few hours. That’s what our “trip” to
the Langudoc region of France did for us a few weeks back—transport us away to this little known—to us—part of French
viticulture. Thanks to the Conseil Interprofessional du Vin de Langedoc, we spent a few hours at Sel de La Terre (in Boston’s Back
Bay) dreaming of the South of France while sampling wines from the AOC Langudoc. This sprawling region’s Mediterranean
coastline is dotted with a wide array of terroire and features wines made from grape varietals like Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Marsanne, Mucan, Piquepoul, Rousanne, Clairette, and Rolle.

We’ve been drawn to the AOC Languedoc since celebrating New Years Eve in 2004 at a Cambridge MA restaurant called Chez Henri.   The French-Cuban cuisine from Chef Paul O’Connell was a challenge to us and we sought the advice of the sommelier (yes, even wine snobs don’t know everything,) who recommended a 2000 Clos Marie Pic Saint Loup from the Languedoc region. The wine was so outstanding we bought a case from our local wine store , Berman’s Liquors, on special order. So, when the opportunity arose to leave our day jobs behind for a couple of hours to explore the wines of AOC Languedoc, we said, “oui!”

Sipping Our Way through the Langudoc Our journey through the tasting started with sparking wines from the interior region of Limoux, made in the Champenoise style but not legally Champagne. We started with the Antech-Limoux (90% Mauzac, 5% Chardonnay, 5% Chenin Blanc). The tasting notes were spot-on zeroing in on the green apple and Bartlett pear flavors and a slightly dry finish.. The other sparkler was a Toques & Cloches NV which blended Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Mauzac. This reminded us of a true “Champagne,” with a floral nose and some toasty/nutty notes on the palate.

Other notable whites/Rosé’s include a 2006 Picpoul de Pinet (Mas Saint Laurent) that featured an inviting honeysuckle nose and a
surprisingly full palate that would complement a steamed lobster in the rough. This terrific wine almost fooled Gary into thinking it
was a premium Alsatian wine. But at $16, this is a terrific bargain and is on our must-buy list!

The only wine we found from Pic Saint Loup was a 2009 rosé from SCEA Chateau de Lancyre (50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, 10% Cinsault). At $15 this is a outstanding Rosé with ripe red berries on the nose and a delicious full-bodied (not too sweet, not too fruity) palate that cries out for your summer barbeque; a great beverage to serve with food or as a stand-alone for lounging on the deck. This is a must-buy as well!

But enough about the whites. AOC Languedoc is best known for its reds, relying heavily on the deep dark fruit of Syrah and
Grenache. Following is a review of the top reds from the tasting.

We’ve been AWOL for a few months, when life intervened in our wine tasting. But we’re happy to be back enjoying great, and not so great, wine, and spilling the beans…literally. We spilled a bottle of red all over the living room rug while we were writing this review.  I guess we’re out of practice.

Said red was Domaine du Poujol Proteus 2005 from the Languedoc region in the south of France. We’re working hard to expand our “New World”-centric wine knowledge and have come to appreciate wines from the Languedoc, which we first discovered on New Year’s Eve 2004 with a phenomenal Pic St Loup at Cambridge’s Chez Henri . Gary asked the proprietor of Crushed Grapes in Lexington for a Languedoc suggestion, and he proffered the Proteus, a blend of Merlot (50%), Cinsault (30%), and 10% each of Cab Sauv and Carignan.

The Domaine du Poujol winemaker calls Proteus an “every day wine,” so we paired it with that most every day entrée—roast chicken. A little olive oil, salt, pepper, and garlic was all the bird needed to come out seasoned, succulent, and ready for the wine.

The Proteus is a dark ruby red. The nose was intoxicating…lots of ripe fruit, mostly blackberry and cherry, with hints of leather and spice. If we didn’t know Merlot was the dominant grape, the nose gave it away. The wine drinks beautifully; nicely balanced fruit and spice, with a long finish. Lisa detected some vanilla in the finish; Gary noted leather. This wine is in no way a fruit bomb; just a classic food-friendly wine that complements both meat and poultry. We bought it for $15.99; you can probably find it for $12-16 at your local shop.  But don’t wait too long; the ’05 is probably coming to the end of its useful life.

Wandering Old San Juan’s hilly streets and alleyways is always a treat, especially for two winter-weary Bostonians seeking sun and sustenance. We’ve visited this fabulous city a half-dozen times, soaking in the Latin vibe and ogling the centuries-old homes and shops that line the streets. During the first “fitness walk” on our recent trip we stumbled on Casa Galena, (108 Calle Cruz) a new boutique with some of the finest tsotchkes any tasteful home-goods shopper would desire. When he hit the back of the shop, Gary let out a “Yes!” (and I swear he did a fist pump too.) He had discovered a small selection of wine from Argentina, Spain, and Portugal. Most of the offerings were unknown to us; some were vaguely familiar from past Boston Wine Expo or ViniPortugal tastings. 

 

Finding a well-curated wine collection in the heart of the old city was a step up for our San Juan wine experiences. Better known for its rum and local beer, the area’s liquor stores mostly boast Gallo and Yellow Tail, while restaurants still tend towards unremarkable (and improperly stored) “vino tinto” or “vino blanco” house wines.

The 2006 Mendoza Valley (Argentina) harvest produced some outstanding wines at terrific prices so we opted for a bottle of the Bodega Sottano 2006 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon. At checkout, the Casa Galena shop owner told us we picked “the best”; one of her favorites.  Assuming she had impeccable taste, we asked for a dinner recommendation so we could enjoy the Cab that evening. She wasn’t aware of any BYO restaurants but raved about the chef-owned La Cucina Di Ivo, (202 Calle de Cristo) whose $15 corkage fee was palatable.

 

What We Ate…What We Drank

Well, Casa Galena’s owner batted 2 for 2 that night! The restaurant was charming, secluded, and molto Italiano. Quietly empty with just one other table occupied, we had the airy outdoor courtyard to ourselves. Gary had the Chickpea Soup and Gnocchi Bolognese; Lisa ordered the House Special Salad (field greens, Granny Smith Apples, Walnuts, and Feta cheese) and the Gnocchi with fresh peas, Prosciutto, and langoustines. Chef Ivo Bignami makes all his pasta, sauces, dressings, and bread from scratch. The Gnocchi were, as Lisa put it, “light, feathery little pillows” and the bread—with garlic and chive-speckled butter—was rustic yet light.

 

And the wine? A Mighty Fine Accompaniment

The Bodega Sottano Cabernet complemented the meal beautifully. The winery’s founder immigrated to Mendoza from the Veneto in 1890, bringing with him an Italian winemaking sensibility.  The Cab was deep, dark garnet in color with powerful but not overwhelming aromas of cherry/plum/currant mash and hints of vanilla, cassis, and toasted oak.  The flavors bore out the complex aromas: a long, subtle, sophisticated taste featuring currant and plum on the palate with a vanilla and cocoa finish. The wine was very food-friendly with rich silky tannins (not a fruit bomb) We deemed it a new world wine with true old world roots. We added the 06 Bodega Sottano Reserva Cab to our “Must Buy!” list and look forward to hunting it down in our local wine shop.

 

Over the past few years, the Portuguese wine industry has labored mightily to change the common equation Portugal = Port.  ViniPortugal, the industry’s trade arm, has blitzed the United States with tastings and seminars for the trade and the wine-loving public; swank events to introduce non-Port wines from the many Portuguese growing regions.  Last year, we attended a sumptuous wine dinner at L’Espalier (http://tinyurl.com/yjhc4dm), which paired a dozen Portuguese wines with adventurous French cuisine. We could only recommend four of the 12, with our favorite being, of course, a Port.

So when two invitations arrived for events just days apart promoting Portuguese wine, we were wary but eager to try again, particularly since the first occasion was all about Port and wines of the Douro region.  Did we mention that Gary is a Port fanatic?  No way would he pass up an afternoon roaming around 17 tables brimming with Tawny, Ruby, and even a few white Ports.

Portos and Wines of the Douro
This sprawling tasting was held at Boston University’s Elizabeth Bishop Wine Resource Center, previously known to Bostonians as the Peter Fuller Cadillac showroom.  The trade was let in for a two-hour preview before the hordes arrived, and we were grateful for the relative quiet in this cavernous space.  Since this tasting was all about Port, the objective clearly was not to push the more than 200 indigenous grapes of Portugal.  This was all about setting the public straight regarding Port.  Like Champagne, which is legally only a product of the Champagne region of France, the designation of Port can only apply to the Douro region of Portugal. Many wineries slap a Port label on any late harvest red wine that’s fortified with Brandy.  But with more than 100 Ports on display at the tasting, there’s no need to go for the faux when the real thing is so bountiful.

Wines of Portugal: Discover the Diversity
The second event was a trade-only tasting with 30 producers/distributors and over 200 Portuguese wines of all varietals. Sponsored by ViniPortual and Boston Magazine, the show was held at a funky loft space (cunningly called The Loft) in South Boston.  This is one of those neighborhoods Boston boosters have called “hot” for about 20 years.  As old fart suburbanites, all we wanted to know was “Where’s the parking and will our car be safe?”

As we table-hopped we were struck by how many producers lacked Boston-area, or any US distribution. One of the objectives of this event was to motivate wine shop owners to push some of that Yellow Tail, Woodbridge, and Almaden out of the way to make room for value-priced and superior Portuguese wines.  Maybe the wines they served at the L’Espalier dinner were just not to our taste. Or, maybe we were in a bad mood that night. As we left The Loft after two hours of tasting (relieved to find our car still there,) we knew we had many more than four wines to recommend.
 
Cut to the Chase — What to Drink
Here’s a list of our “must buy” and “good buy” wines—examples of what we liked, not what some famed wine-god bestowed a 90+ rating on. We can’t vouch for their point value, but we believe they are all well-crafted, well-priced wines we will be happy to buy and serve with our favorite meals.

Detailed tasting notes follow the list.

Our “Go Out of Your Way to Buy” list
•    Quinta Do Bom Retiro 20 Year Old Tawny — $50.
•    Calem Colheita DOC Porto 1994 Tawny Port  — $46
•    Kopke Colheita DOC Porto 1966 Tawny  — $154 (for a ½ bottle no less!)
•    Quinta Da Romaneira,Douro Doc 2005 (Red) — $8
•    Herdade Grande Tinto 2006 (Red) — $30
•    Domini Plus 2007 — $35

Our “Buy if You Find Them” list
•    Carm Colheita 2008 White
•    Carm Reserva 2008 White — $20
•    Carm Reserva 2007 Red — $30
•    Quintas das Tecedeiras Reserva 2006 — $12
•    Quinta do Cachao Reserva 2006 (Caves Messias, DOC Dão)*

*Good luck; no US distribution

PORT
From Adriano Ramos Pinto
Quinta de Ervamoira, 10 year old Tawny
Single vineyard, estate bottled.  Lisa thought it was too “hot.”  Gary found it to be similar to an imposter “Port” from Yalumba-Australia.  It’s a lighter style Tawny (a baby-Tawny?) with hints of leather, tobacco, and smoke.

Quinta Do Bom Retiro 20 Year Old Tawny — $50
Also a single vineyard (or quinta) Tawny that’s (like the name) “da bomb!” With smooth cigar-box, leather, vanilla aromas, this creamy, smooth, luscious Tawny is on our must-buy list.

Quinta Do Bom Retiro 30 Year Old Tawny
While this was fairly good, the 20-Year Old Tawny was the star at this table.  At $80, this is also somewhat overpriced.

From Sogevinus Calem DOC Douro
Calem DOC Porto Reserva Tawny
Aged 7 years in small oak casks; Lisa said that it had the aroma of “grandpa’s tobacco with some fruit.”  Gary noted an aroma of toasted walnuts and vanilla.  There was a significant amount of alcohol at the beginning of the taste followed by hints of leather and vanilla on the way to a long, velvety finish.

Calem DOC Porto 10 Year Old Tawny Port
Lisa found it smooth and smoky, but Gary’s comment was “nope!”

Calem Colheita DOC Porto 1994 Tawny Port
“Colheita” means honey in Portuguese and this honey-colored Tawny was well crafted and very complex.  The leather and tobacco overtones melded with vanilla toast to make this a refined, delicious after dinner Port. Must buy.

Calem Vintage DOC Porto 2004
A Ruby Port made in large vats. Our notes reference a spicy, peppery nose with cocoa and caramel through the mid-palate to the finish.  While this is drinking well now, it will mature further in the bottle over the next 4-6 years.

Calem Vintage DOC Porto 2007
Ruby Port with deep cherry nose and good structure; delicious, bright cherry-plum on the palate. Delicious but immature now, it will age well.  Try again in 3-5 years.

From Sogevinus Fine Wines; CH Kopke
Kopke Port DOC Porto 10 Year Old Tawny White
It’s not every day you come across a white Tawny and this was a very nice stand-in for a cordial, with a toasty vanilla nose accompanied by some light honey on the palate. Gary said it “screams for Key Lime Pie.”

Kopke Colheita DOC Porto, 1999 Tawny
A single wine, single year Tawny with an unusual deep brown color. An elegant Port with rich leather/tobacco aromas and delicious silky almond notes on the palate

Kopke Colheita DOC Porto 1966 Tawny — $154
Yes, that’s right, 1966!  This light amber Tawny had aromas of the finest pipe tobacco and rolled over the palate like cashmere and silk. An amazing Port we were thrilled to have a chance to taste. Gary’s “best Tawny of the show” is now on our fantasy must buy list.

WHITE and ROSE

From Carm Winery, DOC Douro
Carm Colheita 2008 Rosé
This blush colored wine has an interesting butterscotch nose but, says Lisa, there was no pay-off on the palate.

Carm Colheita 2008 White
A delicate, anisette-tinged nose; light and refreshing on the palate.  A perfect match for your favorite shellfish appetizer or meal. Buy.

Carm Reserva 2008 White — $20
The butterscotch/vanilla nose was backed up by a lively, grassy/limestone palate with light fruit and honey. Aged in oak for 8 months. Buy.

From Herdade Do Esporao 1267
Esporao Verdelho 2008
Nice fruit on the palate accompanied by creamy edges.  Lisa calls this the perfect summer sipper deck wine.  Too bad it’s not summer….or fall, for that matter.

Esporao Reserva, DOC Alentejo
Fresh perfumed, citrus nose; creamy palate with good balance of white fruits.  Blend of Antao Vaz, Arinto, and Roupiero grapes.

From Herdade da Comporta (no US Importer)
Herdade da Comporta Antao Vaz 2008 VR Terras do Sado
Light floral nose; creamy, light fruity palate. A perfect accompaniment to sushi or a nicely grilled whitefish like trout.

Herdade da Comporta 2008 VR Terras do Sado
Honeysuckle/apricot on the nose, semi-dry style. Good to pair with Thai food.

From Herdade Grande
Herdade Grande Branco 2008; a blend of Antao Vax (75%) and Arinto (25%)
The tasting starts with a beautiful floral bouquet nose; on the palate the wine featured light fruit with butterscotch and a rich finish.

REDS
Carm Colheita 2007 Red
We noticed pepper and eucalyptus on the nose and thought this would be an excellent match for braised baby lamb chops.  Delicious!

Carm Reserva 2007 Red —  $30
A concentrated fruit-forward wine with flavors that remind us of caramel and cherry compote. The long finish provided by the smooth tannins and ample fruit were similar to far more expensive wines.  Carm’s Reserva Red should age gracefully and gain further complexity over the next 5-6 years, but it is certainly ready to drink now.  Carm’s portfolio proves that good wine can still be had at a reasonable price.  We rate this wine a buy.
 
From Sociedade Agricola Da Romaneira DOC Douro
Quinta Da Romaneira,Douro Doc 2005 Red —  $30
Gary was stunned; his first words were “Wow, this is terrific!” This tasted like an elite wine with an excellent balance of fruit, tannins, spice and suppleness.  It was truly a Goldilocks wine for Lisa as she said it was like heavenly raisins and was the best wine in the show.  We rate this wine a must-buy.

From Vidigal Wines; Not represented in the Northeast.
Reserva dos Amigos 2007 (@ $15).  
Perhaps the best burger and pizza wine we’ve tasted; one that would be a real crowd pleaser at parties too.  Tasting note: Good structure and fruit combine for a smooth concoction that will age for 4-5 years.

From Dao Sul Global Wines
QdoE, DOC Bairrada 2007; a blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Baga grapes
Deep red and blackberry notes on the nose with a dark garnet color. On the palate, there was “beaucoup earth with mineral overtones,” according to Lisa.

Quintas das Tecedeiras Reserva 2006; (6-grape blend) —  $12
This has a nice deep cherry nose and a terrific balance of tannins and fruit throughout the taste.  Tastes like a far more expensive wine and is a terrific value. Buy list.

Herdade Grande
Herdade Grande Tinto 2006 (blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah) — $30
Bright cherry, vanilla, and toasted oak on the nose and layered tannins with leather, cigar box and balanced fruit from start to finish. This is a master-crafted wine that will only improve with age. We have added this to our must buy list.

From Jose Maria Da Fonseca Wines
Domini Plus 2007 (blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesca, and Tinta Barroca) —  $35
Cedar, leather, cigar box, and deep berry; Complex, robust blackberry and cherry with layered silky tannins.  Perfect match for your favorite grilled lamb dish. Must buy.  

Periquita Reserva 2005 (Blend of Castelao, Touriga Nacional, and Touriga Franca
An excellent example of old world winemaking that features complexity throughout the tasting. We noted spice, mineral and caramelized cherry compote on the mid-palate with a dryish finish.  A good wine value!

From Herdade Sao Miguel Wines, No US Representation
Ciconia 2008, Blend of Aragones, Syrah and Touriga Nacional
Lisa likes this wine because of its fragrant nose and terrific balance of fruit and tannins; a very drinkable pizza and burger wine.

From Caves Messias, DOC Dao, No US Representation
Quinta do Cachao Reserva 2006, Blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca Characterized by a deep ruby color, nice fruity, smoky nose with a good balance of fruit and smooth tannins. An excellent value and it’s on our buy list—as soon as they get US representation.